Mario Canonizado 
While the rename recalls the powerful 70s era, the Piaget collection formerly known as Black Tie is sticking around for more than just fifteen minutes of fame! This year, the Andy Warhol welcomes four new references using spectacular stone dials!
Piaget is often considered the dark horse of the Richemont watch group. While they share the stage with industry titans like Cartier and A. Lange & Söhne, the jeweller-watchmakers from La Côte-aux-Fées have consistently proven themselves to be just as deserving of the spotlight. Renowned for their elegant designs and technical mastery — particularly in ultra-thin movements — Piaget has quietly built a legacy of horological excellence that blends high jewellery craftsmanship with serious watchmaking innovation.
This reputation for watchmaking excellence carried Piaget from its founding in 1874 all the way into the disruptive era of the 1970s. It was an era of immense change, both for the in the world at large, and the perception of the watch industry. At the time, the Quartz Crisis was in full swing, and watch brands around the globe found themselves at a crossroads: continue doing what they had always done and risk irrelevance or dissolution, or take a leap of faith and create something bold, unique, and ambitious. The hope was to either capture the hearts and minds of a rapidly changing audience — or go down in a blaze of decadent glory.
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Piaget, as it turned out, decided to do both. By combining their storied heritage and deep expertise in traditional watchmaking with a groundbreaking, paradigm-shifting approach, they went on to create some of their most iconic timepieces during this tumultuous era. One such watch was the Polo, which would eventually become the cornerstone of the Piaget brand. Another was the reference 15102, which would eventually be introduced in 1972.
While the Polo evolved into the modern icon we know today, the 15102 held tightly to its retro roots. This unique place in Piaget’s catalogue came at a cost, however. Though it was never officially discontinued like many of its peers, the 15102 spent much of its modern life languishing in the brand’s back catalogue. Even after Piaget rebranded the line as the ‘Black Tie’ in an attempt to reignite interest, its golden era remained largely forgotten.
“The world to me is like an opal, made of different tastes and colours.“
Yves Piaget
Piaget realised that, given the watch’s iconic status in the 1970s, leaving it in obscurity was no longer an option. Instead, they took matters into their own hands and breathed fresh life into the Black Tie — releasing a new model for the first time in years in late 2024. This relaunch also brought about yet another renaming of the collection, with the brand now calling it the Piaget Andy Warhol.
Related Reading: Piaget Remasters (& Renames!) A Vintage Icon
An icon in his own right and a well-known Piaget enthusiast, Warhol was a fitting namesake. The change served as a tribute not only to his creative legacy, but also to the bold art styles and ambitions of the 1970s, of which he was a major proponent. While this move certainly helped reignite interest in the former Black Tie line, Piaget clearly isn’t done yet. In fact, they’ve just announced a fresh set of four new stone dial additions to the Andy Warhol collection.
The first of the four new models is arguably the most breathtaking of them all. It arrives in a familiar yet striking 18k white gold case, measuring 45mm wide, 43mm long, and a slim 8.08mm thick. What sets this reference apart, however, is its remarkable finishing. Rather than the traditional polished or brushed surfaces, the case is adorned with deep blue baguette-cut sapphires, providing a bold contrast to the extraordinary opal dial nestled within.
For us Australians — who produce roughly 95% of the world’s opals — this is an especially meaningful nod. And it’s not just a national point of pride. The opal happens to be the favourite gemstone of Yves Piaget, the fourth-generation family member and former head of the brand. The watch perfectly embodies what current CEO Benjamin Comar coined as ‘extrelegant’ — a blend of extravagance and elegance that Piaget has made its own.
The other three references, while not as flamboyantly adorned as the first, still showcase a remarkable level of craftsmanship that allows each to stand confidently on its own. The second white gold model features a striking dial made from tiger’s eye, its rich golden-brown striations offering a more grounded but equally captivating presence. The remaining two pieces are a third white gold and a warm rose gold model, sporting dials crafted from green and white meteorite respectively, each offering a distinct, otherworldly texture and sheen.
These stunning displays of dial artistry are further enhanced by the Andy Warhol collection’s signature ’70s aesthetic. Golden gadroons — those decorative ridges that define the collection’s unique profile — run elegantly up toward the brushed bezel, reinforcing the visual drama. Each reference is also paired with a colour-matched alligator leather strap that complements the dial, ensuring a seamless, cohesive look from case to clasp.
As with last year’s initial Andy Warhol release, Piaget has retained the use of the remarkably slim 501P1 automatic movement throughout the collection. Measuring just 3.6mm thick, the 501P1 manages to meet the expectations of modern luxury watchmaking with ease. Beating at a smooth 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and delivering a respectable 40-hour power reserve, this technical marvel is tucked neatly behind a solid case back in all four new references.
While I understand the choice to preserve the heritage aesthetic with a closed caseback, I do have some reservations. Personally, I find that if a watch lacks a running seconds hand, a display case back can offer visual reassurance that the movement is still alive and ticking. That’s not to say it’s a dealbreaker — far from it, given the incredible beauty of each reference — but considering the Andy Warhol isn’t a piece you’d expect to be prioritising water resistance on, a sapphire case back wouldn’t really hurt.
Related Reading: Hands On With The Cartier Santos Dumont
My Thoughts
As I said when the original Andy Warhol release was first announced, blending the art world with the world of watchmaking is always a recipe for fireworks. From Vacheron Constantin’s ambitious collaboration with the New York Met to Swatch’s playful takes with Keith Haring, there are countless examples of this crossover producing truly memorable pieces. And while the Andy Warhol watch wasn’t designed by the man himself, it still embodies the style, attitude, ambition, and aesthetic of the era he so powerfully defined.
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Though these new releases are definitely out of my price range — even without knowing the exact figures — I’m glad to see Piaget putting in the hard yards to ensure the Andy Warhol doesn’t fade into just another fleeting “fifteen minutes” of fame. With their delicate use of stone dials and that signature touch of ‘extrelagance,’ Piaget has brought something truly compelling to the table. In a world where the dress watch is quietly staging a comeback, the heavy-hitters of this once-revered subgenre are starting to creep back into the spotlight. But my advice? Don’t get distracted by the herd. The real dark horse is already here — and its name is Piaget.
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 45mm case diameter x 43mm lug-to-lug x 8.08mm thickness
- Case Material: 18k white gold with baguette-cut sapphires / 18k white gold / 18k rose gold
- Dial: Blue opal / tiger’s eye / green or white meteorite
- Movement: Automatic Cal. 501P1
- Power Reserve: 40h
- Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
- Strap: Blue alligator strap with 18k white gold pin buckle
