Mario Canonizado 
Enriching their already-extreme horological range, Patek Philippe has positively wiped the floor at Watches And Wonders 2025! In my opinion, this new Calatrava 8-Day model is by far my favourite of the bunch.
Even as a relative newcomer to the world of watches, it should come as no surprise that one of the greatest watch brands to ever exist takes part in the annual Watches and Wonders festivities. Patek Philippe — widely regarded as the head of the table within horology’s revered ‘Holy Trinity’ — holds a reputation that echoes across the entire watchmaking industry. Not only are they one of the oldest and most esteemed brands in the world, having been founded in 1839, but they’ve also consistently challenged themselves to go beyond their own excellence. The timepieces they create are not merely built to last a lifetime, but to endure for generations. After all, as the famous saying goes: You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.
However, Patek Philippe didn’t earn its sterling reputation by coasting through the nearly two centuries of its existence. The brand has faced countless challenges along the way — none more significant in its early years than the Great Depression. The global economic downturn gripped the world in an unprecedented financial crisis, and the watch industry was no exception. At the time, Patek Philippe had not yet passed into the ownership of the now-iconic Stern family, and the brand needed a timepiece that reflected the humbling, stripped-down reality of the era.
It needed to be elegant yet understated — capable of generating both buzz and business despite the economic hardships. The result was the Calatrava. Named after the medieval Order of Calatrava, a crusade-era knighthood, the watch was heavily influenced by the clean, functional aesthetics of the Bauhaus movement — an enduring symbol of form following function.
The Calatrava’s simplistic yet meticulously considered design details made it an instant success, helping carry the Geneva-based brand not only through the challenges of its time, but eventually through the turmoil of the quartz crisis as well. It has since become a permanent fixture in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. Over the decades, the Calatrava has evolved far beyond its minimalist roots, having been crafted in nearly every material imaginable, combined with a variety of complications, and reimagined through countless creative permutations.
Even 193 years after the brand’s founding, Patek Philippe continues to push the boundaries of this iconic model. At this year’s Watches and Wonders, they’ve introduced yet another Calatrava that remains faithful to the line’s elegant simplicity, while standing apart through a showcase of technical brilliance. It’s a reminder that even after all this time, the road to innovation for Patek Philippe — and the Calatrava — is far from over.
The newest Calatrava 8-Day model, Ref. 5328G-001, comes in at a well-balanced 41mm in diameter and 10.52mm thick—sizing that allows it to wear comfortably across a wide range of wrists. But despite those dimensions, the wrist presence is anything but ordinary. Crafted entirely from 18k white gold, the watch offers a refined take on traditional precious metals. Unlike the bold warmth of yellow gold, white gold brings a more subtle, restrained elegance, while still delivering that unmistakable weight and feel that signals true luxury.
It’s a hallmark of sophistication done in a way that doesn’t overpower the beauty of the dial or the intricate finishings throughout the piece, of which there are many. Of particular note is the case midsection, which features the signature hobnail (clous de Paris) patterning: a classic detail that has long defined the Calatrava’s timeless design language.
One detail I particularly love is how the lugs aren’t attached directly to the middle case, but instead are mounted from the bottom and gently arch over it. It’s a subtle design choice that few watch brands would even consider, but Patek Philippe executes it with purpose. By separating the lugs from the middle case, they’ve ensured the exquisite finishing — especially the hobnail pattern — remains completely uninterrupted. It’s a small but incredibly thoughtful touch that speaks volumes about the brand’s commitment to refinement.
The dial leans into simplicity, featuring two white gold syringe-style hands that sweep across a grainy blue backdrop. These hands point to lumed Arabic numerals at each hour index—except for five and seven o’clock, which are marked by circular pips instead. At six o’clock, the numeral has been entirely replaced by a dual-function small seconds and date pointer subdial, adding a touch of mechanical interest without overwhelming the layout. Up top, a power reserve indicator arcs gracefully at twelve o’clock, cleverly shaped to preserve the presence of the numeral 12 to maintain symmetry.
Of course, a watchmaker with the horological chops of Patek Philippe is always expected to astound, and the Calatrava 8-Day does nothing to disabuse us of that notion. Housed within the timepiece is a brand-new movement with an enormously long designation: the Calibre 31-260 PS 8J IRM CJ. This engine of precision beats at the now-standard luxury rate of 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and boasts an extraordinary nine-day power reserve. What sets it apart, however, isn’t just the raw performance — but the way it blends extreme technological innovation with the hallmarks of traditional Patek Philippe craftsmanship.
In terms of complications, the Cal. 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J is configured as a day-date movement, featuring the previously mentioned date pointer nested within the small-seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Also integrated into this subdial is a day indicator, cleverly inset to provide a clean, balanced look while allowing for instantaneous day changes when needed. At 12 o’clock, the arched power reserve display is divided into eight segments — one for each day — with the final segment highlighted in red to alert the wearer that the watch is nearing the end of its impressive reserve. But beyond the added mechanical complexity, Patek Philippe has outfitted this Calatrava with even more behind-the-scenes innovations. True to form, the brand has embedded a few subtle—but no less extraordinary—technical tricks up its sleeve.
Outfitted with several high-tech innovations courtesy of Patek Philippe’s Advanced Research Program — essentially the Lucius Fox to the brand’s Batman — the new movement benefits from cutting-edge engineering beneath its classically styled exterior. Among these innovations is the Pulsomax® escapement, first introduced in 2008. This redesigned escapement enhances the energy efficiency of the movement by up to 15%, allowing the 8-day reserve to remain stable without compromising accuracy.
In the same vein, Patek has also utilised Silinvar®, a silicon-based material with extraordinary properties for watchmaking. Silinvar® is used in both the escape wheel and lever, reducing friction and wear while contributing to long-term performance and precision. These technological feats are just a few reasons why this timepiece, like all of Patek Philippe’s finest creations, proudly bears the Patek Philippe Seal — a mark of uncompromising quality in both innovation and craftsmanship.
My Thoughts
Patek Philippe has this kind of aura that no other watch brand seems to— and maybe never will—possess. Even people outside the watch world might not know the name, but they know the watches. They’ve become synonymous with prestige, often seen on the wrists of the highest calibre public figures, celebrities, and historical icons. To say the level of watchmaking ‘speaks for itself’ is honestly a massive understatement. I mean, when the Calatrava has its own dedicated Wikipedia page, you know you’re doing something right. Either that, or someone out there is such a diehard fan that they took it upon themselves to make a Wikipedia page just for one of your collections. Either way… pretty legendary, if you ask me.
While the development of the Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G-001 may seem like an awe-inspiring, high-standard expression of art and science in horology, the craftsmen and engineers at Patek Philippe simply see it as another day at the office for the watchmaking GOAT. After all, that’s been their routine for nearly 200 years, and the introduction of this new novelty signals that they have no plans of slowing down anytime soon — perhaps not even for the next few centuries.
References: 5328G-001
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 41mm case diameter x 10.52mm thickness
- Case Material: 18k white gold with clous de paris (hobnail) finish
- Dial: Textured blue
- Movement: Manual wind 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J with instantaneous day/date indication and power preserve complications
- Power Reserve: 192h (8 days)
- Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
- Strap: Navy blue or taupe leather strap with white gold butterfly clasp.
