Mario Canonizado 
If you’re new to the scene, you might not expect it — but if you’re familiar, then you know exactly what they’re capable of! The fashion powerhouse Chanel has once again ventured into the world of haute horlogerie with an incredible new tourbillon in the J12 lineup.
There’s always been a stigma surrounding fashion brands in the watch industry. While I’ve discussed this at length many times before, the idea of rich fashion conglomerates attempting to hijack the watch industry remains as persistent as it is disheartening. While I’m not one to mourn the losses of multimillion- or billion-dollar corporations, it’s frustrating that many fashion companies, which I’ve long respected for their achievements in the fashion world, are often criticised. Eventually, many of them are effectively bullied into producing soulless, cash-grabbing horological drivel, because that’s ‘what they’re meant to do.’
Related Reading: Beyond The Runway – Why ‘Fashion Watches’ Matter (And Always Have!)
Chanel, while fully aware of the reputation of their contemporaries in the watch industry, remains unshaken in the face of adversity. Historically, they’ve overcome much more than the emotionally charged ramblings of a niche community—after all, Coco Chanel herself led the charge in redefining gender conventions at the height of the fashion world. This steadfast resilience is likely why Chanel entered the watch industry much earlier than their critics would care to admit. Gradually, they had transformed themselves from ‘just another fashion watch brand’ to a major force in even the independent haute horlogerie sector, going so far as to even invest in perennial watchmaking GOATs MB&F.
Related Reading: Chanel Invests 25% Stake In MB&F
While Chanel’s archives are filled with examples that showcase their rightful place in the watch industry, it’s perhaps the J12 collection that truly cemented their standing within the horological world. Designed and released at the turn of the 21st Century, the J12 not only introduced itself as a versatile, unisex timepiece but also served as a bold statement of Chanel’s commitment to proving their worth in the industry.
Constructed entirely from highly resistant ceramic, the J12 presented a fresh take on the already contemporary world of ceramic watchmaking. At a time when ceramic was still considered a relatively niche material for timepieces, Chanel’s decision to craft a luxury watch entirely from it was groundbreaking, pushing the boundaries of both design and durability. The J12’s innovative use of ceramic not only set a new standard in the industry but also marked a pivotal moment for Chanel, positioning them as a serious player in the world of high-end horology.
For this year’s iteration of the world’s biggest watch fair, the French fashion house has unveiled their latest foray into the high horology scene with a new rendition of the J12 series. Among them is the spectacular J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon. At 38mm wide, 46.6mm long, and 12.4mm thick, it builds on the existing J12 tourbillon architecture introduced last year. The wearing experience is as expected, with sensible, unisex dimensions.
However, the J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon stands apart in its construction. While the original tourbillon models used Chanel’s signature high-resistant ceramic, they were offered in the classic black and white that most Chanel clients are familiar with. For this expansion of the J12 tourbillon line, Chanel has chosen a matte blue version of the material for the case and bracelet. Ceramic is notoriously complex to work with in watchmaking, so it’s impressive that Chanel has maintained this coveted material in the J12 collection since its inception, solidifying their expertise in horology.
As the name suggests, the J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon also features an almost entirely blue aesthetic, complemented by the iconic large diamond from which it takes its name. One major change is the replacement of the bezel inset: instead of the case-matched ceramic bezel squares of the original, the J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon opts for a more decadent sapphire-set bezel, featuring 34 baguette-cut blue sapphires totalling approximately 4 carats.
In keeping with the original design, the dial is skeletonised, offering a glimpse of the intricate movement inside. The time-telling elements have been slightly shrunk and displaced upwards for improved legibility and presentation. Below the miniature dial lies the tourbillon — the star feature of the watch — adorned with a massive, exclusively cut 0.18-carat diamond that spins along with the cage like the world’s most expensive miniature disco ball. And that’s not the only diamond: this new version of the J12 Tourbillon also features a pointed diamond protruding from the crown itself.
The internal workings of the J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon are perhaps the only element of the watch that hasn’t changed — but with this level of mechanical expertise, I personally don’t see why it needs to! Inside the watch is the Chanel Calibre 5 — not to be confused with the TAG Heuer movement of the same name — which beats at the standard luxury rate of 4Hz (28,800VpH) with a respectable 42-hour power reserve. Of course, the movement’s true highlight is the previously mentioned tourbillon, which houses the diamond in its constantly rotating cage.
Related Reading: The Art of Complications – Tourbillons
Given our focus on high horology, it only seems fitting that this J12 is fitted with a tourbillon, one of the most aesthetically and mechanically complex features any watchmaker could ever hope to create. For Chanel, though, it serves as a signal to other brands — and the industry at large — that they are not only to be taken seriously, but also to be feared as they rapidly approach horological stardom. To maintain their places in the annals of watchmaking history, the traditional industry will have to step up their game a lot more to compete with this power player.
My Thoughts
I’ve always been an advocate for Chanel in the world of watchmaking. Back when I knew little about the industry, I was probably as shocked as you were—I’m assuming, at least—that the same brand known for handbags and fashionable women’s clothing had ventured into the fine art and science of horology. It almost seemed laughable to think about. What did they know about watches?
Related Reading: Five of the Best Watches from High Fashion Houses
While there is some truth to that statement, since watchmaking isn’t exactly Chanel’s typical focus, the brand knows how to break into industries that might otherwise shun them. After all, it’s what Coco Chanel herself did! With the new series of J12 Bleu releases, Chanel not only continues its journey into the watch world but also strengthens its pursuit of becoming a staple in the industry. In the watch business, there is always more to learn, but this comes with many challenging obstacles. Chanel, however, has faced them all before and will gladly do so again to prove the doubters wrong.
References: H10334
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 38mm case diameter x 46.6mm lug-to-lug x 12.4mm thickness
- Case Material: Matte blue ceramic with 34 bezel-set baguette-cut blue sapphires (~4ct)
- Dial: Open-worked with 1 exclusive-cut solitaire diamond (~0.18 carat)
- Movement: Manual wind Cal. 5 with tourbillon complication
- Power Reserve: 42h
- Water Resistance: 50m (5bar)
- Strap: Matte blue ceramic bracelet with butterfly clasp
