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If there’s anything that Seiko taught me, it’s that it’s okay to not know everything. Marking yet another surprising pull from the archives, the King Seiko VANAC has found its way home!

In the watchmaking industry today, Seiko is almost universally beloved. From industry newcomers and fervent Seikophiles to even luxury connoisseurs, the brand has established and maintained its reputation as a dominant force in the East. Their position is akin to that of Toyota in the car industry, and the similarities are undeniable: both companies produce products suited for every purpose, spanning from budget-friendly options to astronomically decadent luxury, and both are renowned for building products designed to last a lifetime – sometimes even several. This philosophy has defined Seiko since its founding in 1881, and for over a century they have strived to uphold these expectations. Yet, with such a storied and epic history, it becomes increasingly easy for certain chapters to be lost to time.

This fate is exactly what befell the King Seiko VANAC. Initially launched in 1972 – just 11 years after the birth of the King Seiko subsidiary brand – the VANAC distinguished itself through the key features embedded in its name:

Upon its release, the VANAC was a smash hit, but its success was unfortunately short-lived. With a production run lasting just four years, the King Seiko VANAC eventually disappeared from Seiko’s catalogues – soon followed by the discontinuation of the King Seiko brand itself. However, with King Seiko’s revival in 2021, a glimmer of hope emerged that the Ginza (銀座)-based conglomerate might one day delve into its archives and resurrect the long-lost collection. While Watch Advice has had plenty of fun exploring the other references brought back under the modern King Seiko banner, it seems that four years later – of all times – the VANAC has finally made its long-awaited return. Seikophiles, rejoice!

The King Seiko VANAC has come out swinging, re-debuting with five bold references measuring in at 41mm wide, 45.1mm long, and 14.3mm thick. The shorter lugs and thicker case will make for an admittedly chunkier case profile, yet those who wear it may end up being so distracted by the pure 70s aesthetic that emanates from the watch. The modern VANAC maintains the striking angular case design, giving the impression that it was carved out of a single piece of metal. The sharp facets, mirror-polished surfaces, and distinctive multi-dimensional dial architecture pay homage to the cityscape of Tokyo (東京), with its sprawling urban landscape and towering, geometric skyscrapers.

Each of the five references boast a stunning array of unique dial colours, complete with sunray brushing inspired by the sunrise over the Tokyo Metropolis. The reference that adorns the cover page of this article (SLA089J) is limited to just 700 pieces, whilst the light blue SLA091J is exclusive to Seiko boutiques only. The other references – SLA087J in silver, SLA085J in blue, and the purple SLA083J – are all available permanently in the remastered King Seiko line, alongside other icons like the KSK and the 1969 6L. If you’re curious about those other two, both can be found on our wrists right here on Watch Advice!

Powering the new King Seiko VANAC is the recently introduced Seiko Calibre 8L45, a movement designed for both accuracy and durability. First unveiled in the full-titanium Seiko Marinemaster earlier this month, the 8L45 features Seiko’s proprietary Spron alloy, known for its exceptional resistance to breakage, rust, and wear. This robust construction is complemented by a luxury standard 4Hz/28,800 VpH beat rate and an impressive 72-hour power reserve.

With an accuracy of -5/+10 seconds per day, the VANAC is far more than just another Seiko. In fact, movement architecture is derived from the Grand Seiko 9S65 automatic calibre, reinforcing its high-end pedigree – and the steep AU$5,200 price point! For those unfamiliar, Grand Seiko is to Seiko what Lexus is to Toyota – meaning this is no ordinary movement choice. By equipping the VANAC with a Grand Seiko-derived calibre, the Japanese brand is making a statement: that the revival of the VANAC isn’t just for nostalgia’s sake, but also as a demonstration of the brand’s engineering and craftsmanship prowess.

My Thoughts

A common phrase often circulates within the watch community regarding Seiko. Because of how ubiquitous their brand name is, a vocal minority delights in stating that they would “never pay X amount of dollars for a watch with Seiko’s name on it.” This sentiment derides the brand, reducing it to nothing more than a maker of cheap, disposable timepieces.

While their association with accessible price points is well-founded, dismissing Seiko outright is a mistake. Beneath their unassuming exterior lies a true horological powerhouse. Alongside subsidiaries like Grand Seiko and Credor – yes, there’s an even grander Seiko, pardon the pun – they have proven time and again that they are a force to be reckoned with. That being said, the revival of the VANAC puts Seiko in an interesting position regarding their future.

Priced at AU$5,200 – justifiable, I would argue, for a Grand Seiko-derived movement – it’s certainly not an impulse buy, especially given its bold and potentially polarising design. However, the VANAC’s return could signal Seiko’s increasing focus on the higher-end market. While I highly doubt they will abandon their accessibility anytime soon, I’d love to think they are gearing up to go toe-to-toe with the Swiss once again. I suppose we will just have to wait and see!

References:

• SLA091J: Light Blue
• SLA089J: Brown
• SLA087J: Silver
• SLA085J: Blue
• SLA083J: Purple

Specifications:

• Dimensions: 41mm case diameter x 45.1 lug-to-lug x 14.3mm thickness
• Case Material: Stainless steel
• Dial: Light blue/Brown/Silver/Blue/Purple
• Movement: Automatic 8L45
• Power Reserve: 72 hours
• Water Resistance: 100m (10bar)
• Strap: Quick-change steel bracelet with butterfly clasp

Australian RRP: AU$5,200

Availability: Limited to 700 pieces (SLA089)/Boutique Exclusive (SLA091). Pre-orders open now, available starting July 2025 at Seikoboutique.com.au and all authorised retailers.