Mario Canonizado 
If you’re unsure about deals, want a good watch without breaking the bank, or if approaching a luxury salesperson gives you the same fear as talking to the ice cream man as a kid, here’s a basic rundown on buying a watch to help you out!
Welcome, and welcome back! If you’re new here, then allow us to reintroduce ourselves: We are Watch Advice, Australia’s pre-eminent hub for all things watches. United in our passion for all things horology, we delight in bringing the excitement of the industry to wherever you may be reading this. Whether it be the unveiling of a brand-new watch, compelling and honest hands-on reviews, or in-depth insights into the watch world, our only goal is to help foster the rapidly growing watch culture Down Under!
So, if you’re reading this, perhaps there’s a luxury watch in your future. Maybe it’s for a graduation gift; Perhaps you’re about to get married to the love of your life; For all I know, you hit it big on the Pokies and want to splash your cash! Trust me, I know friends that have bought watches from that. However, purchasing a watch can be daunting – especially if you don’t know what you’re getting into.
Speaking of, have you already read the first instalment of the I’m New To Watches series? In it, I explain my motivation in creating this series, as well as the very basics of what a watch actually is. If that’s something you need to figure out first, then by all means – click straight off this article and give it a skim! I’ve got time.
Done? Great! So, want to take a dip into the world of watches, but you don’t know where to start? Well, then read on: this article is all about buying a luxury watch for the first time!
Where Do I Buy A Watch?
While it seems like a redundant question, I’m not exactly talking about department store displays or budget jewellery stores. Depending on where you’re from, some of them may have nicer selections than others, but for luxury watches there are two terms that dominate the conversation: boutiques and authorised dealers/ADs. There’s also online and the grey market, but I’ll get to that in a bit.
When it comes to finding a watch from a specific brand, going to a boutique is the surefire way of doing it. These stores, with their luxurious appearance and obvious signage, are direct extensions of the watch brands themselves. Additionally, there’s always new watch boutiques are popping up, such as the new Tissot Melbourne boutique pictured below, so don’t be afraid to locate your nearest one and say hello. Unlike most ADs, watch boutiques are typically dedicated to one brand. Not only does this mean they’ll usually have the most available stock, but they may also provide exclusive models and limited editions that you can’t find anywhere else.
Additionally, boutique staff – generally referred to as client advisors – are specialists with the brand, and can offer insights into the product knowledge, brand storytelling, and information regarding watches servicing. It’s also a great way to get the full experience of purchasing a watch, which in of itself can become a treasured memory should it be for a special occasion. Stick with them long enough, and the brand may start inviting you to exclusive events, or even give you a sneak peek into what’s coming soon!
On the other hand, if you’re not too sure what you’re looking for straight away, it may be best to go to an authorised dealer, or AD for short. While all boutiques are technically ADs, the same can’t be said the other way around. What most of the watch community refers to as an AD, is a store or boutique not owned by the brand/s they sell. This franchising relationship allows an AD to stock brands that don’t have established boutiques. Rolex, for example, only sells watches through ADs.
Additionally, ADs can also stock more than one brand at a time, which is perfect if you’re feeling a touch indecisive. A great example of this is The Hour Glass, a Singapore-based AD with roots in Australia, as they practice the same level of luxury standards as the very brands they have been authorised to sell. If you’re on the East Coast of Australia, there’s likely an Hour Glass near you, so that could be a great place to start. Otherwise, plenty of ADs – such as Kennedy, J. Farren Price, Watches Of Switzerland or Hardy Brothers – exist all around Australia.
If possible, I highly recommend visiting a boutique or AD first, even if you ultimately decide to buy elsewhere. Missing out on the experience and in-depth knowledge that boutiques and ADs provide can be detrimental to your overall purchasing experience, especially if it’s your first time buying. Checking out a boutique or AD firsthand allows you to see, feel, and try on the watches, giving you a clearer idea of what you’re getting into. Plus, it creates a lasting memory – something that stays with you whether you return or not. That said, if you’re not concerned with the high-end shopping experience and simply want the best deal possible, the grey market is often the way to go.
What Is Buying A New Watch Like?
You might have heard the phrase “watches are investments” at one point in time. To me, it’s half true: Financially speaking, there are scant few watches that I would bet against the law of diminishing returns, but when it comes to your lifestyle and preferences, a watch is certainly a personal, long-term investment. Thus, as you build up towards your first purchase, you should be wary of what exactly you’re getting into. While we’ve already made a condensed guide on the considerations of buying a luxury watch, this part of the article will go into it with a bit more nuance.
Related Reading: Our Guide To Buying Your First Luxury Watch
Appearances Can Be Deceiving
Walking into any luxury boutique or an AD, it’s easy to get floored by the refined aesthetic of the place, as well as the often formal nature of the staff. But don’t let the fancy looks intimidate you! Take it from a perennial tire-kicker in the watch world: Almost every client advisor I’ve ever talked to has been incredibly friendly, approachable, and passionate about their work.
They are happy to assist in any way possible, so feel free to ask them a few questions about what’s in stock, as well as letting them know what interests you, and they can help you make a decision. Keep in mind, however: part of a client advisor’s job is to ensure you walk out with a watch in hand. Remember, if you’re not 100% sure about the watch, it’s okay to walk away. Watches aren’t going anywhere, so if you need more time to justify the decision in your mind, it’s perfectly fine to take a step back to do so.
If It’s Too Good To Be True…
If you’re in a place that doesn’t stock the watch you’re looking for, or aren’t big on talking to new people, that’s okay too! The best route for you would be to go online, whether that be through online-exclusive ADs like StarBuy and WatchDirect or via grey market dealers. Grey market dealers, both online and in-person, typically sell pre-owned or second-hand watches through informal or unofficial channels. It’s a good option for those looking for a rare, discontinued, or more affordably priced timepiece. However, buying online – especially from the grey market – comes with its own risks.
Unlike AD/boutique purchases, grey market purchases usually don’t have authenticity or warranty guarantees. This is subjective depending on what kind of grey market dealer you pass through, of course, but you can often find watches that have questionable service histories, after-market components that decrease its value, or even online sales that use stock images of the watch instead of real ones. This dubiousness can make it difficult to figure out if it’s worth splashing an inordinate amount of money on ‘that cool watch you saw online.’
Related Reading: The Best Statement-Making Green Dial Watches
While some grey market dealers, like Chrono24, offer buyer protection, independent sellers may not. To avoid getting burned on a purchase, it’s important to take a few precautions: Be wary of watches priced far below or above the usual market rate (the typical asking price for a specific watch); Always ask about the box (the original packaging)and papers (the watch’s purchase documents), as they can help verify authenticity; Check the seller’s return policy – reputable dealers should offer at least some form of buyer protection; And ensure that any servicing was done by the brand itself or an authorised watchmaker to avoid hidden issues down the line.
How Much Should My Watch Cost?
Of course, when it comes to buying a watch – especially a luxury one – there’s always the question of “How much?” If that’s the question you’re asking, then you’re on the right track! By definition, a luxury product is inessential, expensive, and/or difficult to obtain. But that’s a part of why we love them so much! Unless your bank account looks like Tony Stark’s, luxury watches are only going to come around once in a blue moon, which means you’ll want to set aside the right amount of money for the timepiece you have in mind.
While that sounds like a bit of a lofty goal, here’s the good news: There are luxury watches available for practically every price point! We at WatchAdvice recognise that the bar of ‘luxury’ is different for every single person, so we don’t expect you to close this article and immediately drop ‘car money’ on a new timepiece. Whether you’re looking for entry-level brands, super-expensive engineering masterpieces or a good ol’ fashioned beat-em-up watch, it’s always important to understand what you’re paying for.
RELATED READING: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Owners Perspective
Factors like brand prestige (how well known they are), materials (i.e. steel or gold), movement (mechanical or quartz), and finishing (overall quality of details) all influence the price of a watch. For instance: an automatic watch; encased in gold; and made by an established watchmaking brand, will likely cost more than the average quartz watch.
RELATED READING: How Much Does It Cost To Produce A Luxury Watch?
Is It Worth It?
Well, this is completely up to you. In conversation with a client advisor, you may find that the watch you’re looking at is subject to a price increase. While some of this can be chalked up to inflation, most of it is just for brand perception. A lot of watch brands love to lean on their legacy and exclusivity to drive up prices, so it’s up to you to roll your sleeves up a bit and do some research on where quality ends, and the brand name begins.
RELATED READING: Are Watch Prices Worth It & Price Increases Justified?
That being said, a bit of online sleuthing can go a long way. Don’t worry, it’s not hard: information on the price of watches is usually just a few keystrokes away. Once you get a hand on that info, you may even be tempted to haggle on the price. I’m not saying that you shouldn’t do it – every dollar counts, after all – but it’s typically a non-starter if you’re at a high-end AD or an ultra-exclusive branded boutique. It never hurts to ask, though! If not a discount, maybe you’ll be able to walk away with a couple of extra goodies, such as branded merch or complementary servicing down the line.
Despite my love of seeing more people dip into the amazing world of horology, there’s one golden rule you should always follow: Never let the purchase of a material item put you in financial strife. If you have the money and can live with the consequences, then by all means – go for it! But remember, you can’t eat a Rolex. If you ever find yourself torn between a watch and your next meal, the choice should always be clear. A watch should enhance your life, not compromise it. No timepiece – no matter how rare, prestigious, or beautifully crafted – is worth sacrificing life experiences, relationships, or future opportunities. At the end of the day, watches are meant to be enjoyed, not to become burdens.
Still, it’s okay to dream about the next big luxury watch purchase! If you’ve got a timepiece in mind that’s currently out of reach, that’s what we call a grail watch: A watch so aspirational that you tell yourself, “One day, I’ll own that piece.” Because my wallet looks like it’s constantly taking Ozempic, I’ve identified plenty of grail pieces in my life. I wouldn’t dare chase them now, but when the time is right, I know the journey will make the reward all the sweeter.
RELATED READING: In Search Of The Holy (Watch) Grail
The Important Bits!
Although I haven’t introduced nearly as much jargon as my last article, I understand if all of this can sound a bit daunting. Don’t worry, though – most of the information I’ve regurgitated onto you is mostly built into your common sense. If you use that, and trust your gut, then it’ll be hard to go wrong when buying a watch. Just like last time, however, here are the most important takeaways of what you just read:
- You can buy a watch in person at a boutique or authorised dealer/AD, online, or with grey market dealers on physical or digital channels. Boutique and AD client advisors are typically specialists in product knowledge. Online and grey market dealers often provide a less formal experience, with many offering both new and pre-owned watches.
- Should you visit a boutique or AD, don’t feel afraid to ask questions. They’re there to help! Regardless of how you intend on buying a watch, if something doesn’t feel right, it’s okay to walk away. Take your time, check for any warning signs, and don’t get caught up in the excitement of the moment.
- It’s okay to aspire towards a grail watch, but make sure you feel financially prepared to purchase. Don’t stretch yourself thin just to own a fancier, more expensive watch.
And that’s it! Whether you decide to go to a boutique or an AD, online or on the grey market, always remember that the only person that can decide to buy a watch is you. And for a luxury product, the question is never truly “how much is it,” but rather “how much are you willing to pay for it?” If there’s a detail we missed – or, if you have any questions, comments, suggestions, or even complaints – be sure to let us know on our Instagram page. Otherwise, feel free to click on any of the articles I have linked throughout. Happy reading!
