Sameera Gamage 
Chopard Manufacture is creating a new chapter in its extensive watchmaking history with the release of the L.U.C Calibre 96.3-L movement. This is the first time the brand pairs a perpetual calendar high complication with large date display, with the flying tourbillon complication. The culmination of years of hard work, the Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual shows us the finest expertise and innovation that is cultivated by the Maison’s workshops.
This is by no means the first time Chopard Manufacture has used either of the complications in the brand’s previous timepieces. In fact, the brand first started creating the tourbillon complication back in 2002, with the release of the L.U.C Quattro Tourbillon timepiece, which was powered by the L.U.C 02.01-L movement that was “equipped with Chopard Quattro technology and a ’Variner’ variable-inertia balance featuring a balance spring with a raised terminal curve”. What this means in non-technical terms is that it was the first tourbillon on the market at the time to beat at a frequency of 4hz (28,800 VpH).
In 2013, Chopard Manufacture released the L.U.C Perpetual T model, which was the brand’s first tourbillon with a perpetual calendar complication, leaving its indelible mark in the brand’s history. The first “Flying Tourbillon” complication created by Chopard Manufacture came in 2019 with the L.U.C Flying T Twin. This was the Manufacture’s first mechanical self-winding flying tourbillon model. Powered by the brand’s L.U.C 96.24-L movement, it earned both the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ quality hallmark and COSC chronometer certification.
Now for 2025, the L.U.C Flying T Twin Pereptual takes the dial design and Flying Tourbillon complication from the 2019 L.U.C Flying T Twin model and adds the perpetual calendar complication design used in the 2013 L.U.C Perpetual T model. Chopard Manufacture simply could have used this 2013 model as the base and integrated a flying tourbillon. However, this new design feels more refined in design, especially with the use of sharp baton-style hour indices and hands.
The 40.5mm bassine-shaped case is made from ethical 18-carat yellow gold and has been newly designed specifically for this timepiece. The case has been designed in the bassine-shape to reflect Louise-Ulysse Chopard’s creative heritage from the 19th century, with the base of the case being narrower than it is domed, the lugs being made separately and then welded onto the case and the slightly domed sapphire crystal perfectly matching the curves of the bezel. The beautiful polished finish on the case and bezel adds to the elegance and luxurious appeal of the timepiece.
Chopard Manufacture has executed the dial beautifully on this timepiece. The colour green has been gaining traction lately, and Chopard has tapped into it with this deep Forest Green shade, complementing it with the colour gold, which I think acts as a visually stunning colour combination. While the timepiece features high complications, the dial has been kept as simple and as aesthetic as possible. The perpetual calendar complication fits into the two sub-dials and the large date window at 12 o’clock.
The 3 o’clock sub-dial features the month indication, as well as the leap year indication. The 9 o’clock sub-dial features the day of the week and day/night indication. While normally I’m not a fan of date windows not being colour-matched to the dial, the white date wheel works very well here, breaking up the green and gold colour combination in a nice way. It’s also the fact that the date window is positioned under the 12 o’clock marker, giving the timepiece a more balanced view.
The finishing of the dial is also impressive, with the use of a guilloché and a sunburst pattern radiating from the flying tourbillon opening at 6 o’clock, the focal point of this timepiece. A concentric snailed pattern runs around the dial periphery, below the minute track. The flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock doesn’t come with an upper bridge that traditional tourbillon designs use, which means the wearer gets unobstructed views of the complication!
The creation of the flying tourbillon stems from years of research and development. To then combine it with a perpetual calendar complication is certainly no easy feat. The L.U.C Calibre 96.3-L movement features 319 components while only being 6mm thick. The movement comes with a stop-second function, which allows the user to adjust the time down to the second, with the flying tourbillon complication enhancing the accuracy of the timepiece.
Related Reading: The Art of Complications: Tourbillons
Chopard Manufacture states in regards to this new L.U.C Calibre 96.3-L movement that “Thanks to the micro-rotor and Chopard Twin technology’s two stacked barrels, the 6 mm-thick movement associates the lightness of a flying tourbillon with all the gear trains enabling this model to provide day of the week and large date displays, as well as a month indication, requiring no manual adjustments to keep track of variable month lengths and leap years.”
Final Thoughts
The Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual is a clear demonstration of the brand’s ability to bring together high complications with refined aesthetics. By integrating a flying tourbillon with a perpetual calendar complication as a first for the brand, Chopard Manufacture has showcased its technical expertise and created a timepiece that exudes elegance and sophistication.
The timepiece is as aesthetically pleasing as it is mechanically complex. The choice of green and gold as the colours makes it a standout piece, further enhanced with the stunning guilloché and a sunburst pattern that radiates from the central flying tourbillon. Whether admiring it for its mechanical prowess or the beautiful aesthetics, this watch is a true collector’s piece and a testament to Chopard’s dedication to craftsmanship, proving once again they are a force to be reckoned with in the wold of haute horology.
References: L.U.C Flying T Twin Pereptual (161989-0001)
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 40.5mm x 11.63mm thickness
- Case Material: Ethical 18-carat yellow gold.
- Dial: Dial is in ethical gold, adorned with a hand-brushed guilloché pattern, and the Forest Green colour was obtained by PVD treatment.
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides.
- Water resistance: 30m / 3 Bar
- Movement: Calibre L.U.C 96.36-L operating @ 3.5Hz (25,200 VpH)
- Power reserve: 65 hours
- Strap: Interchangeable strap in green alligator leather with cognac-toned alligator leather lining and tone-on-tone stitching or beige-grained calfskin with tone-on-tone stitching. Folding clasp in 18-carat yellow gold.
