17

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in stunning purple is the perfect blend of performance and precision!

The TAG Heuer Carrera is one of the most iconic collections in the world of luxury watchmaking. As we know, the Carrera was first introduced in 1963 by Jack Heuer and was named after the infamous Carrera Panamericana, a high-octane race that stood for innovation and daring.

Over the decades, the TAG Heuer Carrera has evolved; however, it still remains true to its original concept of precision, elegance and a design that brings together a perfect balance of form and function. The TAG Heuer Carrera is undoubtedly one of the most iconic watches in the world, known for its design language of clean lines and chronograph functionality. The watch is a timeless symbol of TAG Heuer’s ability to push the boundaries whilst still keeping the core identity of the watch intact.

This is ever so true with the latest release of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph models. This next-gen versions of the Carrera now incorporate a “Glassbox” design, whereby the signature bezel that the previous Carrera timepieces had has made way for a sloped dial that includes the tachymeter scale onto the dial itself. The sapphire crystal is then domed so that it can cover this angled tachymeter scale on the dial.

The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon, a more recent addition to the Carrera collection, takes the lineage to a whole new level. By incorporating a tourbillon complication, TAG Heuer demonstrates its mastery of haute horology, allowing enthusiasts to experience a feature typically reserved for the most exclusive timepieces. It is also arguably one of the most accessible tourbillon collections in the world of luxury watches, with the timepieces being priced lower than the competitors.

During LVMH Watch Week this year, TAG Heuer introduced a stunning new variant to the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon family as a limited edition run of 200 models. Previously, the “Glassbox” collection came in dial colours such as teal green, navy blue, and radiant ice blue. Now, TAG Heuer is adding the colour purple to the collection, which the brand used before in their Monaco timepiece. That timepiece was widely popular, so it only made sense to use this unique colour on one of the brand’s most iconic collections.

Initial Thoughts

When I first saw the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple in the initial press releases, I was captivated by its striking presence. The sunburst purple, a colour that was used quite successfully by TAG Heuer on the Monaco timepiece previously, immediately sets this Carrera apart from the rest of the collection.

As with the rest of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon collection, what sets this timepiece apart is the seamless combination of technical mastery and aesthetic brilliance. The tourbillon, proudly displayed at 6 o’clock, is both a visual centrepiece and a testament to TAG Heuer’s horological experience. It was clear from the very first time I saw it that this was more than just a timepiece.

Glassbox Case Design

TAG Heuer’s latest retro-styling glassbox design is being used for both the Carrera and the Carrera Tourbillon, with both models being presented in a stainless steel case. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple gets a larger case compared to the Carrera Chronograph Purple, measuring in at 42mm vs 39mm. This makes sense as the larger size accommodates for the tourbillon case at 6 o’clock.

As we have talked about in previous reviews, press photos don’t do the watch justice sometimes. For me, when I first saw the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in the press releases, I was immediately swayed by its looks. However, holding it in person was even more impressive. The case has different finished surfaces that press photos won’t show effectively sometimes, and it is a case in point here. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon’s case features polished finishing on the top flat surfaces of the case and lugs, while the side profile features a horizontal brushed finish. This gives the timepiece a beautiful glisten that is hard to look away from! The chronograph pushers, along with the crown, are all in a polished finish, which adds to the shine and luxurious look of the timepiece.

The Carrera’s signature styling for the case remains the same here, with the faceted bevelled lugs angling inwards being retained for a good fit on the wrist. The glassbox sapphire crystal gives a three-dimensional look to this timepiece, with the dial sloping downwards towards the edge so that the minute track can be seen when the watch is at an angle. Personally, I like the glassbox design compared to the traditional Carrera sapphire crystal that we used to get. This glassbox sapphire crystal design is also more prominent on the Carrera Chronograph model as it removes the classic Carrera Tachymeter bezel the previous generation models used to have to fit the tachymeter scale now with the dial inside the crystal. The same end result, but now in a much more aesthetic, elegant and classy appearance!

Carrera Tourbillon Dial Design

I have always been a fan of the TAG Heuer Carrera ever since my very first luxury timepiece, the Carrera Calibre 16 Day-Date. What drew me to the Day-Date was purely the TAG Heuer styling. The sharp rectangular hour indices, the sharp hands and the three sub-counter layout gave the watch a refined and modern look that stood out elegantly. To me, these new Carrera Chronograph models do just the same.

While the design of the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon has remained the same since it’s introduction, what has changed is the dial colours. TAG Heuer has presented the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in a range of colours with finely grained texture so far (excluding the Panamericana models), including a teal green dial, deep blue dial, and one of my personal favourites, the radiant “ice blue” dial.

The introduction of the colour purple to the collection adds a darker tone to the mix and certainly brings something different to the table. It’s not just a simple purple colour ,either. The sunburst effect of the dial means that we get lighter tones of deep red-violet in the centre, and as you get closer to the edges of the dial, the colour becomes black. While this effect is noticeable on all the dial colours of the Glassbox Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon (besides the Ice blue dial), I feel like the purple really digs in deep with the two tonalities of the colours. The richness of the purple in the centre is almost directly contrasted by the black on the edges of the dial.

The black azure subdials with the circular-grained finishing add to the overall darker look of this timepiece. The only other model in the Glassbox Carrera Tourbillon collection that has black counters is the Ice blue dial, which works effectively as it contrasts directly against the blue. Here, I have mixed feelings about whether this is the best possible look. Don’t get me wrong, the black counters still look fantastic against the sunburst purple background; however, as mentioned earlier, it also makes the watch look “darker” overall. In my head, I’m left wondering what this would have looked like if the sub-counters followed the same path as the navy blue dial and teal green dial, with the counters being finished the same as the dial colours with the sunburst effect.

One thing is for sure, though: the darker tones surrounding the tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock make it “pop” so much more compared to the other models. Like the hour indices and hands, the rhodium-plated cage with its polished finishing also glistens beautifully against the purple and black tones. This tourbillon complication also acts as a seconds counter as the tourbillon makes one revolution per minute.

Calibre TH20-09 Movement

TAG Heuer retains the Calibre TH20-09 movement used in previous Glassbox Carrera Chronograph Tourbillons for this model as well. The Calibre TH20-09 is an updated version of the Calibre Heuer 02T movement. The TH20-09 movement benefits from using a bi-directional rotor, unlike the Heuer 02T, which had a unidirectional rotor, which meant that it could only generate energy when the rotor was swung in one direction.

As mentioned earlier, the TH20-09 movement uses a one-minute tourbillon complication. For those who may be unaware or new to the world of watches, a tourbillon is used in a timepiece to negate gravity’s effect on timekeeping accuracy effectively. To explain it briefly, in a standard watch movement, gravity can pull on the escapement and essentially cause variations in timekeeping accuracy. The tourbillon complication addresses this issue by placing the escapement, hairspring, and balance wheel inside a rotating cage. This cage then typically rotates once per minute, aiming to counteract the effects of gravity on the movement.

Related Reading: The Art of Complications: Tourbillons

The rotating cage can also be used as a constant seconds counter, with the small extension indicating the “seconds” as the tourbillon cage makes one full revolution. Compared to the standard Carrera Chronograph, the tourbillon version will have less power reserve as the tourbillon uses up more energy. Regardless, however, the Calibre TH20-09 still gives out a decent power reserve of 65 hours while operating at a high frequency of 4Hz (28,800 VpH).

The open caseback gives view to the TH20-09 movement, showing the various finishing techniques used. Firstly, we get the skeletonised rotor in the shape of TAG Heuer’s logo, which also has a vertical brushed finish. The mainplate of the movement sitting under the rotor has Côtes de Genève finishing. Incidentally, the jewels of the movement also match nicely with the purple dial colour!

How Does The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Wear?

The case of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon measures 42mm x 14.33mm x 48.6mm. The tourbillon does certainly sit wider on the wrist compared to the standard Glassbox Carrera Chronograph, and as mentioned earlier this is due to the addition of the complication. However, in saying that, as you can see from the photos, the watch wears remarkably well on the wrist!

My wrist is on the small side (16.5cm) and I personally didn’t find any issues in wearability. Even with a lug-to-lug distance of 48.6mm, the timepiece didn’t protrude out from my wrists. I think in this case, what really helps is that combination of the sloping lugs and the leather strap. The strap that comes as standard is a black perforated (racing-inspired) leather strap, with the inner-lining colour matched to the purple on the dial. The angled lugs help to fit the wrist’s contours better, while the leather strap makes for an overall snug fit on the wrist.

Aesthetically, as can be seen from the photos, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon looks incredible on the wrist! It’s not just one factor that makes the watch really stand out. It’s the combination of the sunburst purple dial, the polished tourbillon cage against the purple and the polished finishing of the case that all come together to deliver a very beautiful-looking watch when worn. I think this can also be a drawback to the timepiece, however, as the watch looks so good that it demands a dressier outfit to accompany it! Certainly not the case that you can’t wear it in a casual setting, but this is a timepiece that was made to be worn for events like dinner events, date nights, and formal events alike.

Final Thoughts

This latest TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple is a brilliant display of combining traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design. The addition of a sunburst purple dial is undoubtedly a bold move, but one that TAG Heuer has already successfully tried before with the Monaco Purple. It makes perfect sense for the brand to bring this colour back, this time in their most iconic collection. The purple offers a fresh take on the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon series, and I have to say it’s arguably the best-looking one so far!

As I’ve mentioned, this is not just another tourbillon timepiece. Its a statement piece, one that exudes elegance, luxury and undeniable presence on the wrist. The intricate interplay between the polished tourbillon cage, the sunburst dial’s rich hues, and the case’s exquisite finishing showcases TAG Heuer’s commitment to delivering more than just functionality; they deliver art.

For the fans of the Carrera lineage or for those who appreciate horological artistry, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple is a testament to why the collection remains a cornerstone of luxury watchmaking. This is a timepiece that captures time in a blend of colour, craftsmanship and beauty that TAG Heuer has mastered.

References: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon – CBS5017.FC6605

Specifications:

• Dimensions: 42mm, 14.33mm thick & 48.6mm lug-to-lug
• Case Material: Brushed and polished Stainless Steel
• Dial: Purple Sunray brushed dial with rhodium-plated indices and hands and tourbillon cage.
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Water resistance: 100m / 10 Bar
• Movement: Calibre TH20-09 Movement operating at (4hz / 28,000 VpH)
• Power reserve: 65 hours
• Strap: Black perforated leather strap with black stitching and purple calfskin lining on the reverse.

Australian Recommended Retail Price: AUD $51,900

Availability: Limited to 200 models worldwide. Available through TAG Heuer Boutiques, authorised retailers or online at TAGHeuer.com.au