REVIEW: Hands On With The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk

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The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is possibly one of the coolest “digital” display watches out there, so why not hit the streets of Sydney to see how this unique model from the Saxony brand wears in everyday life?

It’s no secret that A. Lange & Söhne makes impeccable watches. In fact, calling them watches is almost sacrilege as they really should be referred to as timepieces, or as I like to think of them, mechanical works of art! In all honesty, it’s very hard to fault any pieces from A. Lange & Söhne – they are one brand that puts so much emphasis on perfection that every piece they make is almost that, perfect. From the way they finish the movements, to the cases, to the double assembly. Each piece of the approximately 5,000 they make each year is as close to perfect as you can get in a watch, to the point where what makes any one of their pieces not perfect is personal preference really. Do I like this design, this style and the size for my wrist?

Their prices are also on the higher end, so depending on your means, they may be out of reach, but I’d say this is perfectly justifiable given the quantity they make, and each is of the highest quality, perhaps one of the best you can find in a more “mass” brand. And by mass, I mean owned by a group like Richemont and not a small independent who makes in the tens or small hundreds of pieces a year, like F.P.Journe or Akrivia.

The A. Lange & Söhne Zietwerk is no exception here, to the point that when it was launched in 2009, it won the Aiguille D’Or at the GPHG, taking top honours that year at the watch industry’s night of nights. And it’s easy to see why – A unique “digital” time display, as opposed to the conventional analogue time, which was designed to showcase a modern way of telling the time with a historical mechanical movement, and in 2009, was a first of its kind.

First Impressions

Being 100% upfront, this is the first time I’ve been able to get my hands on a Zeitwerk. Let’s face it, they are not a common watch and for good reasons. They are perhaps one of the more highly sought-after models in the A. Lange & Söhne portfolio and are made in low numbers. They are a piece for people who want high-horology but with a twist. Something that at first glance looks classic, but on second glance, breaks the norms of traditional time telling.

In the hands, you can feel the weight of the piece and there is always something luxurious about the feel of a gold watch. This is a piece that isn’t for sport of adventure, so the weight is a pro rather than a con in this instance, and the time while unconventional, is super easy to read. The small seconds gives you a taste of the mechanical calibre that is under the dial, so I feel like I’m getting A. Lange & Söhne’s idea of the best of both worlds in the Zietwerk.

The Design

It’s easy to see why back in 2009 the Zeitwerk won the Aiguille D’Or. This was one of the first mechanical timepieces that told the time digitally. And when I say digital, I don’t mean an LCD screen with a battery and circuit board, I mean the way the time is displayed, with numerals in a digital fashion, not on a circular analogue clock face. And rather than A. Lange & Söhne doing some futuristic models like Urwerk or MB&F, they chose to blend the digital time display with the aesthetics of a traditional case.

Speaking of the case, it takes the form that is typically Lange, and very reminiscent of a Lange 1 or Datograph. Classic A. Lange & Söhne stepped lugs protrude from the case and are tapered from the case side down. The taper and the angling help with the overall look as well as the wearing experience. Like the Lange 1, the notching or step near the case shows where these are attached, being welded on in the traditional way vs milled with the case as one piece.

In the case of the Zeitwerk, the crown has been moved to what would be the 2 o’clock position, and done in a deep knurling to ensure it’s easily gripped. It also keeps it away from the back of the hand and avoids any wear marks that you can get from a crown if it rubs. Down at 4:30 is the pusher that allows you to quickly set the hour for those who may be travelling across larger time zones.

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The dial is really what makes the Zeitwerk stand out. The ‘digital’ display is something that comes from A. Lange & Söhne’s history. If you read our Watch Education article on the History of the Lange 1, then you would have read about what inspired the outsized date on the Lange 1, which is the 5-minute clock at the Dresden Opera House. For the Zeitwerk, A. Lange & Söhne have taken this one step further and put this display directly into the watch itself. It’s both unique and genius! This is displayed on the time bridge in the centre with a brushed finish, and this not only acts as contrast to the dial but is also essentially a bridge of the movement. Now, while this way of telling the time is unique, you will either love it or you won’t. Personally, I think it’s the thing that makes the Zeitwerk the Zeitwerk, and while a little unconventional in a mechanical watch sense, it brings a sense of fun to what is a serious watch.

On this model, the dial is created from a piece of black galvanised Sterling Silver with an almost silky or glossy look in certain light. Interestingly, you have a clear sapphire pivot point on the time bridge, just left of the minutes window, that is the pivot for the minute disc. The power reserve at 12 o’clock is nicely balanced by the small seconds display at 6 o’clock, and both are reminders that this is in fact a mechanical timepiece.

A. Lange & Söhne has given the case both refinement and texture. The middle of the case is brushed and contrasts with the polishing on the upper and lower parts of the case. This adds a “visual break” so to speak when looking at it, and rather than having a large portion of pink gold in either high polish or brushing, Lange have opted for both to break up the case, giving it more character and a less thick in appearance. The domed bezel aids with this visual effect as well, ensuring this is a refined piece to look at.

How It Wears

Starting with the specs, the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk measures in at 41.9mm in diameter, 49.7mm lug-to-lug & 12.2mm thick. Now, I have always said, don’t judge a book by its cover, and with watches, don’t judge a watch by its numbers on paper. It’s how it is designed, shaped and made which will make a difference once on the wrist. I’ve worn 45mm watches that feel a lot smaller, conversely, I’ve worn smaller watches that feel a lot larger. It’s all down to the case shape, the lug design, dial design and thickness once on the wrist. With the Zeitwerk it feels like it should be a larger watch at first glance knowing the measurements, but in my experience, I didn’t feel this when on.

As said, the design of the case plays a massive part in how a watch appears on the wrist. There are a few areas at play here with the Zeitwerk that make it look a little smaller when on. The sloped domed bezel helps to slim the watch’s diameter down when looking at it from above, as it does when looking at the side profile, so the almost 42mm feels less across the wrist, and thinner than the 12.2mm. Plus, the domed bezel is good for cuffs to slide under as well!

Looking at the profile on the wrist (above), the stepped caseback hides under the watch and sits into the wrist, so this slims the watch by about 1-2mm. In addition, the domed bezel means the side of the case, which is what your eye is drawn to, has less real estate to show, making this piece feel thinner when on. To help prove this point, have a look at how the Zeitwerk looks on Chamath’s 16.5cm wrist below.

The black alligator leather strap seems relatively comfortable on the wrist. It isn’t a strap that feels too stiff when you’re first putting it on, which is one common issue with leather straps – you need to give them time to break in and adapt to your wrist. Not an issue with the Zeitwerk’s strap, however. A. Lange & Söhne also design their buckles smartly by making them with an elevated bridge on the pin buckle for better wearing on the wrist, ensuring the strap sits flat in the buckle with no distortion or bending as you get with many pin buckles on other watches.

From a legibility perspective, well, it doesn’t get much better than a digital display. Thanks to the large outsized windows, just like the date window in the Lange 1, it’s hard not to know what time it is. At a glance, you can quickly tell the time, how much of the 72-hour power reserve you have left and exactly what second it is in the minute thanks to the large small seconds sub-dial. The crown is easy to pull out to change the time, or if needed, wind the watch while it is on the wrist thanks to the placement at the top right, and should you need to change the hour quickly, like you would travelling across time zones, you can do this with the pusher at 4:30, again, without taking off the timepiece.

Being an 18k pink gold case, the watch has some weight to it, but as I wrote about in the Lange 1 Review, it’s not overbearing as the watch is on a leather strap, so unlike a full gold sports watch, this feels a little substantial, but in a good way. I’ve really come to like the way a gold or any precious metal watch feels on the wrist, especially paired with a leather or rubber strap. If worn snug, the case won’t move around too much on the wrist, so just ensure that this is the case should you think about buying one.

But, as with anything, 18k gold in any form has it’s pros and cons. Gold is soft, even gold blended with other alloys like 18k pink gold is, so it will scratch or dent a little more easily. So for this reason, I would say the Zeitwerk is a piece that won’t suit everyone’s lifestyle for a daily. So if you are thinking about adding a precious metal piece to the collection, like the Zeitwerk, then think about how it will fit in with what you wear, your lifestyle and the purpose of the watch. Personally, this would be a piece that I would wear on special occasions, events, dinners etc, but it’s not one for everyday unfortunately.

The Movement

Flipping the watch over, you can see the beautifully decorated calibre L043.6 movement. Like all A. Lange & Söhne pieces, the attention to detail is second to none. Whilst I could go on about the 72-hour power reserve and the low beat rate of 2.5 Hz, or 18,000 VpH, it’s way more fun to talk about the way Lange decorates and details their movements!

Looking at the image above, at the top and to the right, you have the large mainspring barrel with a dual-solarisation pattern delivering the 72-hour power reserve. Both the outer part of the wheel and the inner are done, but counter to each. The ratchet and crown wheels which connect to the mainspring to its left are also solarised, and in addition to this, all the teeth on the wheels have been micro-bevelled, something that takes a lot of time, and is not an easy task at all.

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Towards the bottom, you have two free-hand engraved bridges. At the bottom, the escape cock holds the escape wheel in place, and this connects to the balance on its left, which again is held in place by the balance cock with a beautifully engraved pattern in a floral motif. The other components worth mentioning is the use of the overcoil on the balance, as well as the masses on the balance wheel, all designed to make for better timekeeping and finer adjustments of the movement.

Another way A. Lange & Söhne keep this particular calibre reliable and accurate is the 1-minute remontoir or constant force mechanism, which can be seen sitting between the escape wheel and the main spring barrel. This acts effectively as a break to slow down energy transmission from the barrel to the escapement, so every 60 seconds, it “unlocks” a minute’s worth of energy and delivers this to the escapement, avoiding damage and keeping the time in check.

The main plate and bridges are all made from German Silver, which is a combination alloy made from a Nickel/Copper/Zinc combination. This gives it that beautiful golden hue, rather than a silver colour. One reason A. Lange & Söhne uses German Silver is the alloy is highly corrosion resistant, so it helps with the robustness and longevity of the movement and its components. Overall, it is a beautifully done movement, and as always, assembled and disassembled twice to ensure quality and accuracy, and tested in 5 positions as well.

Final Thoughts

There are some watches that you want to wear for longer, and the time you spend with them is never long enough. Strangely I feel this way about the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. It is a watch I’ve seen many, many times, reported on and explored online, but never had the opportunity to put it on my wrist for an extended wear. Personally, I wasn’t sure on the digital time format either, that was before I was able to wear it. And this is where having a watch on the wrist makes all the difference.

The Zeitwerk on the wrist is a great experience. The weight of the gold feels like you’ve got an expensive piece on (which is the case) and it’s a piece that you want to show off, talk about, and then take it off and show that stunning movement inside. The digital time display is cool, it takes you back to a simpler time of when you leant to read digital clocks and reminds you that you were once a kid. However, the mechanics behind the Zeitwerk’s simple exterior is anything but, and when you delve into the movement, you understand the appeal of the Zeitwerk. At A$167,400 is isn’t a piece that is affordable for the avarege watch guy or girl, nor is it easily purchased due to the small numbers A. Lange & Söhne produce, but the watch world, like anything in the luxury world needs pieces like this that showcase what is possible, why different is good and something that you can aspire too. Otherwise, what’s the point of having goals and dreams?

Reference: 142.031 / LSLS1424AG

Specifications:

• Dimensions: 41.9mm, 49.7mm lug-to-lug & 12.2mm thick
• Case Material: Brushed and polished 18k pink gold
• Case back: Brushed and polished 18k pink gold with sapphire crystal display
• Dial: Black galvanised Sterling Silver with center time bridge digital display, small seconds subdial and power reserve, pink gold hands
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
• Water resistance: 30m / 3bar
• Movement: Calibre L043.6 hand-wound movement beating at 2.5Hz / 18,000 VpH with a constant force escapement
• Power reserve: 72 Hours
• Strap: Black sustainably sourced alligator leather strap with double folding 18k pink gold clasp

Australian Recommended Retail Price: $167,400 AUD

Availability: Available now from A. Lange & Söhne in Martin Place, Sydney. Enquire online at Alange-soehne.com

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