Zenith and Collective Horology team up to create a new DEFY Skyline limited to 200 pieces and done in a grey silver for those that like some monochromatic style!
When Zenith released the DEFY Skyline back in 2022, it was an instant hit with collectors. I even took the plunge myself and got a coveted blue dial, which at the time was so in demand that Zenith could not keep up with the demand on release and took almost 6 months to be delivered. But I was happy to wait, and thankfully, it was on my wrist soon enough!
RELATED READING: The Owner’s Perspective: Reviewing The Zenith Defy Skyline
Since then, Zenith has evolved the DEFY Skyline collection to include new colours, sizes, skeleton dials, complications and materials. They’ve also embarked on some great collaborations and limited editions, with the likes of Philipe Pantone. And now, they’ve teamed up for a second time with Collective Horology, which started in 2018 as a collector-initiated community, now a fully-fledged retailer with a slight bent to the independent watch scene.
The new Zenith DEFY Skyline C.X. Edition is everything great about Zenith, and the DEFY Skyline, but with the customisations of the team over at Collective Horology. You still have all the major hallmarks of the DEFY Skyline – the dodecagonal bezel, angles integrated lugs and bracelet, semi-skeletonised hands and a choice of the integrated quick change bracelet or strap, both included by the way, so the choice is just what you want to wear on the day! However, Collective Horology has made a few subtle changes.
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The first, and most noticeable is the change of the 1/10th second subdial moved from 9 o’clock to the 6 o’clock position. The date window at 3 o’clock has been done away with as well, so you now have a cleaner and more balanced dial than the original DEFY Skyline. For those people who love a date window, like me, you’ll most probably be torn between the balanced clean aesthetics and the reduced functionality of the watch. For those purists who want a clean and more balanced dial, then you’ll be in heaven!
The other major change on the dial is the way that Zenith and Collective Horology have decided to make it a gradient dial. Instead of the starry night pattern going all the way to the edge of the dial and rehaut, this dial sees the stars start to fade away as you get close to the edge, thus giving the watch dial more depth of character.
Moving to the case, the standard DEFY Skyline is done in stainless steel, but vertically brushed for a more edgier look, something I quite like and some would say reminiscent of a Royal Oak. For the DEFY Skyline C.X. Edition, the steel is now sandblasted, giving the watch an entirely matte finish, with the only polished areas being the side of the bezel and the side of the case back. This also applies to the dial, so you don’t have the shiny sunburst finish you find on other Skylines.
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While the whole look of the watch is very monochromatic when on the steel bracelet, the DEFY Skyline does have a small pop of orange on the dial, with the tip of the 1/10th second hand in orange, and the number 10 at the top of the subdial, which is a nod to this being the 10th collaboration Collective Horology has done in total. However, if you want a fresh, bright summery look, then never fear, as you can quickly swap out the steel bracelet for the included orange strap at the click of a button. To me, this is one thing that Zenith does well, as it’s easy and seamless to operate. The downside is, it is proprietary, so you can’t buy aftermarket straps for this. However, I’ve never found this an issue, to be honest, as the strap is designed perfectly for the watch, and looks great with the detailing of the stars to compliment the dial.
Inside of the DEFY Skyline is the El Primero 3620 SK. A time-only automatic movement, beating at 5Hz or 36,000 VpH, a key feature of the Zenith El Primero movement, and the reason for the speed of the 1/10th second subdial spinning around every 10 seconds. Yes, it isn’t functional at all, but it is Zenith saying, “Look what we can do!” In all honesty, it is very cool to look at, and once you’re used to it, a normal 60-second subdial seems overly slow! The El Primero 3620 SK has a 55-hour power reserve which is not massive but respectable given this is a piece you can wear as a daily. It also has hacking seconds, but to me, this is slightly irrelevant as you are never sure of the exact time to the second due to there being no way to measure the 60 seconds. But that’s neither here nor there.
Initial Thoughts
I do love a collaboration. Sometimes these hit the mark, and sometimes they miss. In this case, I feel that Zenith and Collective Horology have hit the bullseye on this piece. They stuck to what makes the DEFY Skyline the DEFY Skyline and made subtle but positive changes I feel to the original, like the subdial move to 6 o’clock, the sandblasted case and dial, as well as the dial gradient. And rather than having multiple logos or ostentatious colour changes that are in your face, Zenith and Collective Horology have gone the less is more approach. The only way you know this is a collab visually is the C.X on the case back, as well as the limited edition number, and the number 10 on the subdial. All else could just as well be part of the standard lineup with orange accents to go with the blue, black, and white dials with associated straps.
Personally, I would love a date window down at the bottom of the 6 o’clock subdial – this would keep the balance, and give you the added date functionality which would be ideal for people like me. But, we can’t have it all, can we? Putting that aside, it is a great-looking watch, and on the rubber strap these wear so well, which is how I prefer it, but if you get sick of the rubber, the steel bracelet is about 30 seconds worth of effort away. Either way, you shouldn’t be disappointed!
The DEFY Skyline C.X. Edition is limited to 200 pieces worldwide, and sold through Collective Horology, or online at Zenth-watches.com and will be available via Zenith Boutiques worldwide from December 19 2024.
Reference: 06.9300.3620/63.I001
Specification:
- Case: 41mm, 46mm lug-to-lug and 12mm thick
- Case Material: Sandblasted steel
- Case back: Steel screw-down with sapphire display back
- Dial: Matte grey/silver, star-patterned gradient dial with 1/10th second small seconds subdial
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
- Water resistance: 100 Metres (10BAR) with Screw-Down Crown
- Movement: El Primero 3620 SK high-frequency automatic movement, beating at 5Hz / 36,000 Vph
- Power reserve: 55 Hours
- Strap/Bracelet: Integrated steel bracelet with interchangeable orange strap with quick change system
