The latest brand to jump onto the ceramic express, Maurice Lacroix have released two new Aikon Automatic Ceramic timepieces! However, there’s more to their case material than meet the eye…
An undeserved pariah of the watch world, Maurice Lacroix have made significant strides to improve their horological lineup as of late. As they move away from lower-tier watchmaking and department store timepieces, the engineers and craftsmen behind the Saignelégier-based brand have garnered widespread acclaim for their recent releases. Between the sporty remaster of the Pontos to the highly complicated Masterpiece collection, there is a lot more of Maurice Lacroix to be interested in these days compared to the past.
In spite of this acclaim, it seems that the Aikon collection has been gathering most of the spotlight, both in terms of good press and the Maurice Lacroix R&D department – and for good reason! Despite its relative youthfulness in the horological sense, the Aikon’s debut was extremely well-received by the global community, becoming their best-selling watch in a remarkably short amount of time. In the modern day, it’s often unfairly perceived as yet another take on the exhausted integrated bracelet sports watch trend – but, if the average ignoramus deigned to do some research, they would find that it’s hardly the case.
Firstly, the Maurice Lacroix Aikon’s design is actually a remaster of a previously popular collection from the 1990s, entitled ‘Calypso.’ The Calypso, featuring a five-link articulated bracelet and the iconic six ‘claws’ on the bezel, informed the eventual modernised design of the Aikon collection. Additionally, the Aikon’s 2016 debut was far ahead of the integrated bracelet renaissance we know and love today, predating the Tissot PRX – a watch commonly agreed upon as the revival of the integrated bracelet – by five years. It does feel a bit strange to use words like ‘predating’ when it comes to two watches released in the 21st Century, but the point still stands: Maurice Lacroix’s Aikon collection is indelibly etched into the watch world’s unfolding modern history.
It’s this respectable modern reputation that has prompted the brand to use class-leading innovative materials to bring the Aikon up to snuff. Starting with the Aikon Automatic Titanium released at Geneva Watch Days 2024, their quest for the ultimate modern timepiece continues with the debut of two Aikon Automatic Ceramic watches! Joining the current lineup, the pair come in either demure black or bright white ceramic cases, sized to 42mm and 39mm respectively, with beautifully contrasted finishing across the case and bracelet.
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This isn’t just your ordinary ceramic, though, as Maurice Lacroix have taken three years of careful research to develop a modified ‘technical ceramic.’ This involves the doping of the original zirconium oxide (Zr02, the scientific notation of the ceramic) with three others: hafnium oxide (HfO2), yttrium oxide (Y2O3) and aluminium oxide (Al2O3). The result is a new shatter-resistant, fade-resistant ceramic that retains the base factors of lightness and scratch resistance – ensuring that the brilliance of the ceramic finish remains overtime.
All the familiar fixings of the original Aikon design still remain in this tough and fashionable package: The Calypso’s ‘claws’ and articulated bracelet, the Clous De Paris dial, and 200m water resistance maintain the Aikon Automatic Ceramic’s urban versatility and signature toughness under pressure. This reliability is only furthered by the recommissioning of the Cal. ML115, a Sellita-based movement offering a 4Hz (28,800VpH) beatrate and a respectable 38-hour power reserve. Not anything particularly mind-blowing in the movement department, but you can count on it to get the job done in a pinch, and for good value at that!
My Thoughts
Founded in 1975, Maurice Lacroix has now been a part of the watch game for almost half a century. While that still sounds relatively young compared to esteemed icons of horology like Vacheron Constantin or Blancpain – both of which have produced watches for hundreds of years – I believe it’s high time they step up to the plate and claim their flowers. The brand seems to have agreed on this too, as they have set out to establish their legitimacy by using their experience to move to a higher calibre of watchmaking.
These new Aikon Automatic Ceramic timepieces are an indication that the tide has begun to shift for Maurice Lacroix. Developing a new type of ceramic is neither simple or cheap, so to present not one, but two new watches in an innovative case material is certainly not something to scoff at. Yes, the Cal. M115 is not an in-house movement or a technical marvel, but it’s excellent at doing the one thing that a watch is supposed to be good at: telling the time. And for the Aikon Automatic Ceramic, it’s a perfect fit in terms of value and reliability.
It’s not like Maurice Lacroix’s manufacture doesn’t have the capabilities to develop a new movement – just look at the Masterpiece collection! However, these things take time, and while the changes within Maurice Lacroix will be monumental, they will also be gradual. It’s releases like the Aikon Automatic Ceramic, though, that should encourage you to stick around and see what happens next – I think you might be surprised if you do!
Model: AI6008-CRM22-330-2 (Black), AI6007-CRM72-130-7 (White)
Reference: DB28XPSWT
Specification:
- Case: 42mm case diameter x 48mm lug-to-lug x 11mm thickness (Black), 39mm x 45mm lug-to-lug x 11mm thickness (White)
- Case Material: Black or White technical ceramic
- Dial: Black or White
- Crystal: Sapphire (1800 vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective treatment
- Movement: Automatic Cal. M115 (Base SW200-1a)
- Case-Back: Screwed case back in polished titanium and open on a linear power reserve indicator
- Power reserve: 38h
- Water Resistance: 200m (20bar)
- Straps: Black or White ceramic bracelet with Easychange system & butterfly clasp
