The all-new De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon: Mastering time in majestic blue!
De Bethune’s latest DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is the brand’s latest evolution of the iconic DB28 Steel Wheels collection. The DB28 is an extraordinary example of avant-garde watchmaking, bringing together cutting-edge technology along with traditional craftsmanship to create timepieces with that “stand out” appeal.
When the DB28 Steel Wheels collection was first launched in 2018, it grabbed attention for it’s futuristic design, which was characterised by the sleek titanium case and the distinctive look of having skeletonised lugs alongside the skeletonised movement. The theme of the timepiece was to strip everything down to the bare minimum, while still make it a stunning piece of art to look at!
In 2020, De Bethune took the DB28 Steel Wheels collection a step further by adding in one of the most desired complications: the tourbillon. This model, when you look at it more closely is a very similar timepiece to the latest tourbillon edition that’s been released. The difference between the two being that the 2020 model features blue sapphire delta-shaped bridges, whilst the twin power barrels are shown underneath sapphire crystals. The clear theme of the 2020 edition was to incorporate sapphire into the watch.
The 2024 edition of the De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon features the same colour palette as the 2020 edition, but it does not have the sapphire plates. What we get is a timepiece with a much more vivid dial, one that catches the eye immediately. The model retains the grade 5 titanium 43mm case that the previous versions came with, including the signature skeletonised design. The “floating” lugs are hollowed out, which is the main detail of the case that draws your attention to.
While De Bethune retains the iconic dial of the Steel Wheels (with the addition of the tourbillon), there have been a few subtle changes. The more prominent change is the design and layout of the hour indices. While the previous DB28 Steel Wheels Tourbillong featured a minute track alongside the spherical hour markers. For this latest edition, De Bethune have gone for a more simplistic approach, by using a dial layout similar to the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon, released earlier this year. The design now only features small spherical hour indices.
De Bethune states that the colour used on the dial is a “microlight pattern”. I find that the shade of blue used for the dial is similar to royal blue, and I have to say it is beautiful on the dial. As mentioned previously, unlike the sapphire blue of the 2020 edition, this model just grabs your attention and keeps it there! The colour scheme is also well thought out in that it breaks up the blue with the titanium of the skeletonised movement. We get the microlight blue pattern on the “hour track”, the delta-shaped bridges of the dial, the bridges of the twin power barrels, and also on the tourbillon. This is juxtaposed by the titanium used for the hands, gear wheels for power barrels and the titanium cage for the tourbillon.
At the 6 o’clock position on the dial is De Bethune’s ultra-light tourbillon. This mechanism weighs just 0.18 grams and operates at a very high frequency of 5Hz (36,000 VpH). The tourbillon performs a complete rotation once every 30 seconds. As stated earlier, the blue balance wheel of the tourbillon is a patented component by De Bethune, and it comes with white gold weights.
The tourbillon is part of De Bethune’s hand-wound calibre DB2009V6 movement. The movement comes fitted with many of De Bethune’s patented designs, along with the twin-barrels that give an impressive 5-day power reserve. On the case back of this timepiece, De Bethune has included a power-reserve indicator to let the wearer know when the watch needs to be wound again.
Final Thoughts
This latest version of the De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon is easily one of my favourite models from the brand’s collections. I’m a sucker for this vivid royal blue colour, so when it is combined with a beautifully aesthetic dial and tourbillon complication, it just ticks all the right boxes. Unfortunately, the watch is only limited to 10 pieces!
What I also like about this watch is that it has so many different points that look appealing to the eye. Firstly the skeletonised case (lugs) which gives it the minimalistic look, to then the skeletonised dial. I do like the fact that De Bethune has removed the minute track and just kept it simply as the sperical titanium hour indices. This way the dial feels less “cluttered”, while also letting the beautiful shade of blue stand out more.
The watch is also offered on an extra-supple alligator leather or a blue fabric strap. While the choice will depend on the occasion, if we are talking purely of looks, the blue fabric strap is hands down the best choice for me. I feel that the darker tones of the leather strap just don’t do the overall look of the watch justice. In contrast, the blue of the fabric strap closely matches the royal blue of the dial components, giving it an overall aesthetically pleasing look!
Model: De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon
Reference: DB28XPSWT
Specification:
- Case: 43mm x 9.1mm thickness
- Case Material: Polished grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle. Also features polished grade 5 titanium floating lugs (De Bethune patent 2006).
- Dial: Skeletonised dial with a mix of titanium and blue microlight components. Tourbillon at 6 o’clock.
- Crystal: Sapphire (1800 vickers hardness) with double anti-reflective treatment
- Movement: Mehanical hand-wound DB2009V6 Calibre
- Case-Back: Screwed case back in polished titanium and open on a linear power reserve indicator
- Power reserve: 5 days (120 hours)
- Straps: Extra-supple alligator leather with alligator lining or blue fabric strap.
