Following the successful remaster of another beloved Piaget reference, the Richemont brand has again made it clear that it’s cult classic comeback season.
Though not as widely recognized as its peers, the La Côte-aux-Fées brand has repeatedly proven why it deserves a place among the world’s finest jewellers and watchmakers. In 2024, they have only served to strengthen this reputation by way of release both innovative and nostalgic. From releasing a new version of the modern Piaget Polo Skeleton in Ceramic to re-introducing the legendarily retro Piaget Polo ‘79, Piaget’s 150th anniversary in review is shaping up to be something special. As the year winds down, however, Piaget turns its gaze not only toward honouring the classic timepieces of its past but also toward celebrating their most dedicated collector.
An icon of the visual art landscape, Andy Warhol likely needs no introduction. Throughout his career, he was one of the pre-eminent leaders of the Pop art movement, alongside contemporaries such as Roy Lichtenstein and Keith Haring. His work inspired countless people to take in the beauty of things often overlooked, even mundane items like Coca-Cola bottles, Campbell’s Soup cans, and even a banana.
One of his most famous paintings, the Marylin Diptych, paid homage to the legendary Marylin Monroe. While it would help to immortalise her life and likeness on silkscreen, his usage of bold colours and faded grey-scale is suggested to evoke the duality of Monroe’s glamorous, fame-fuelled public image and the price of such, which would result in her untimely passing weeks before the painting was finished.
But What Does Andy Warhol Have To Do With Piaget? As a matter of fact, a lot: While Warhol is a legendary artist in his own right, he was also known to be an especially prolific watch collector. Not only that, but Warhol was a well-known member of the Piaget Society – a moniker given to those by fourth-generation family member Yves Piaget that held a deep connection to the brand.
Warhol would come to own seven Piaget watches in his life, but has always been most commonly associated with the Piaget Black Tie. The Black Tie collection is one of Piaget’s vintage icons, debuting in 1972 and predating the original Polo by seven years. Outfitted with the Beta 21 quartz movement and a unique rectangular cushion shape, the Black Tie was a fantastically period-appropriate yet somewhat timeless piece. Perhaps that’s why the general aesthetic remained largely unchanged – case gadroons included – when the Black Tie relaunched in 2014. This time, the Black Tie with an ultra-thin automatic movement to suit, as well as both rose gold and white gold cases and even a malachite dial rendition.
After ten years hibernating in the background, however, Piaget have deemed it time for a shake-up. In collaboration with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, the modern Black Tie collection has now officially been renamed to the Piaget Andy Warhol Celebrating this momentous occasion, of course, needs an appropriate celebratory watch, and Piaget is hardly one to disappoint.
While the new Piaget Andy Warhol Clous De Paris stands at an imposing 45mm in case diameter, its stature is delicately compounded by a conservative 43mm lug-to-lug and a 7.6mm thickness. This new piece, whilst still distinctly Black Tie in nature, comes with a blue PVD meteorite dial and Dauphine hands – the latter of which was added with the 2014 relaunch.
Encased in 18k white gold, the new piece has done away with the heritage-inspired gold gadroons, opting for a clous de paris (a.k.a. hobnail) bevelled finish. This case finish, typically associated with the art of guilloché in watch dials, is tremendously more difficult in this context. The patience required to nail this finish on an angle presents a litany of challenges that only the capable craftsmen of Piaget are able to tackle.
Finally, the internal mechanics have also been given a minor update, as the Piaget Andy Warhol Clous De Paris is powered by the Cal. 501P1. With a 4Hz (28,800VpH) beat rate backed by a 40-hour power reserve, the Cal. 501P1 is more than capable of keeping up with the horological needs of the wearer.
Initial Thoughts
When art and watches come together, it’s always guaranteed to be a blast. Just look at 2024 as an example. We’ve had a countless number of art styles, artists, and artworks referenced in the watch world, drawing upon a veritable sea of cultural influences that push the boundary of horological engineering and craftsmanship. It’s why TimeForArt is one of my favourite piece unique watch auctions of all time, as it directly funds contemporary arts and artists – but that’s a story for another time.
Piaget’s Andy Warhol Clous De Paris is exemplary of such worlds colliding. Warhol is one of the most famous artists of all time, so to hear that he too shared a deep connection with horology and time was both fascinating yet almost entirely unsurprising to me. After all, he did coin the phrase ‘fifteen minutes of fame.’
And while these days, fame is often fleeting, the new Piaget Andy Warhol Clous De Paris. Not many watch collections get a second life, but the watch collection formerly known as Black Tie has the privilege of living three: Once when it was invented; Twice when it relaunched; And once more in 2024 as the Andy Warhol. Joining its younger brother the Polo ‘79 in the limelight, the Piaget Andy Warhol Clous De Paris is yet another feather in the illustrious cap of the Swiss jeweller/watchmaker, as they bask in this year’s retro renaissance.
Reference: G0A49238
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 45mm case diameter x 43mm lug-to-lug x 7.6mm thickness
- Case Material: 18k white gold
- Dial: Blue meteorite
- Movement: Automatic Cal. 501P1
- Power Reserve: 40h
- Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
- Strap: Blue alligator strap with 18k white gold pin buckle
