INTRODUCING: Breguet Classique 5177 & Classique Phase de Lune 7787 In Platinum  

by Sameera Gamage

Breguet offers a timeless aesthetic for their most classic collection with the release of the new Classique 5177 and 7787 models.

Breguet has added two new additions to their Classique collection with the release of the latest Classique 5177 & Classique 7787 timepieces. These models stay true to the timeless spirit of the collection while giving it more elegance with the combination of two noble materials; platinum and “Grand Feu” enamel.  

Breguet’s Classique collection is one of the brand’s most iconic lines, known for it’s elegance, craftmanship and tribute to their heritage. As the collection’s name suggests, the models in the Classique line brings forth classical watchmaking ideologies. The Classique models feature traditional watchmaking complications and have simplistic styling that conveys elegance and luxury.  

The all-new Breguet Classique 5177 and Classique Phase de Lune 7787 timepieces

Abraham-Louis Breguet, considered as the first watch designer, developed a new aesthetic approach to timepiece design alongside his technical innovations that earned him a high reputation among prestigious international clientele. At a time when his peers created timepieces where the dials were filled with decoration, A.-L. Breguet chose to go on the minimalistic approach and free time from all embellishment. His main concern for his designs was that legibility of the indicators.  


Even if the mechanisms under the dial are complex, telling the time must be as quick as it is intuitive.
Abraham-Louis Breguet’s approach to watchmaking design. 


Abraham-Louis Breguet’s approach to simplify watchmaking design in the 18th century saw him reinventing the watch face, which was sometimes enamelled in white, softened by the now iconic design of the Breguet Arabic hour indices and the open-loop design of the Breguet hands.  

Breguet’s signature design details such as the Breguet hands, and Breguet hour indices are more prominent against the black dial.

These design cues are what has transpired onto the dials of the Classique collection. The two models being updated are the Classique 5177, which is a classic dress watch with a simple yet elegant design. The second is the Classique 7787 model which takes the classic styling of the 5177 and adds complications. Some of the complications that have featured in the Classique 7787 model include the perpetual calendar, moon phase, power reserve indicators and date and day of the week indicators.  

The new Breguet Phases de Lune 7787 looks stunning with platinum 950 case and black dial.

The Classique 5177 and 7787 models are existing timepieces in the Breguet collection. Breguet offers the Classique 5177 in the following references: white gold case & white “Grand Feu” enamel dial (reference 5177BB/29/9V6), rose gold case & white “Grand Feu” enamel dial (reference 5177BB/29/9V6), white gold case & blue “Grand Feu” enamel dial (reference 5177BB/2Y/9V6), rose gold case & silvered guilloche dial (reference 5177Br/15/9V6) and lastly a white gold case & guilloche silvered dial (reference 5177BB/15/9V6). 

In contrast, Breguet offers only two existing variations of the Classique 7787 timepiece: a white gold case with “Grand Feu” enamel dial (reference 7787BB/29/9V6) and a rose gold case with “Grand Feu” enamel dial (reference 7787BR/29/9V6).  

Classique 5177 in Platinum  

The latest edition to the 5177 collection is the 950 platinum 38mm case model with a black “Grand Feu” enamel dial. As mentioned previously, the Classique 5177 is the closest expression to Abraham-Louis Breguet’s stylistic philosophy. This model with it’s deep black dial helps to accentuate the elements of the dial that symbolises Abraham-Louis Breguet’s work such as the Arabic hour markers done in silvered powdered timer and the signature “moon”-tipped Breguet hands being rhodium plated. This material choice not only allows it to match the colour of the case, but to also contrast beautifully against the black dial and enhance the readability of the dial. At the 3 o’clock position is also a date window, a signature design of the Classique 5177 model, which is done tone-in-tone to match the dial.  

A subtle feature on both the Classique 5177 and 7787 models is the “hidden” Breguet signature. Breguet states that “following the habits and customs of 18th century watchmakers to guarantee the authenticity of a timepiece, these “Grand Feu” enamel dials reveal Breguet’s secret signature to the right of the center for the 7787 and between the center and 6 o’clock for the 5177″.

Open case back of the Breguet Classique 5177 showing the brand’s exemplary finishing.

The movement sitting inside this latest Classique 5177 is the Breguet Calibre 777 Q. The movement, a self-winding calibre, operates at a high-frequency of 28,800 VpH (4Hz), while giving out a power reserve of 55 hours. The movement features 237 components and incorporates a flat balance-spring made from silicon, which makes it more resistant to wear, corrosion and magnetism. The open case back of the Classique 5177 gives view to the calibre 777 Q movement, in which we are treated to a rhodium-plated 18-carat gold oscillating weight decorated with a hand-engraved “starry mosaic” motif, along with an exclusive design that echoes the words “Breguet Special Edition”.  

Classique Phase de Lune 7787 In Platinum 

Compared to the Classique 5177 timepiece, the Classique Phase de Lune 7787 offers a more comprehensive display that showcases a cut out window to display the phases of Earth’s natural satellite. This moon phase display comes with a backdrop that shows the starry night sky, along with a moon that has as Breguet describes a “comforting smile or friendly profile”. The moon phase also comes with a graduate scale over 29.5 days. [Text Wrapping Break][Text Wrapping Break]On the bottom right of the dial is the power-reserve indicator, displayed in large yet simplistic manner. The scale reads upto 38 hours which is the maximum output of the movement.

Unlike the existing models of the Classique 7787 model, the moon phase for this version doesn’t have gold details, but rather rhodium-plated. The hands and Arabic hour indices aren’t blued either, but also rhodium plated. Having blued hands on this model wouldn’t have been the right choice as they would be overshadowed by the beautiful black “Grand-Feu” enamel dial. Like the latet Classique 5177, having rhodium-plated elements against the black dial allows it to stand out much more and paint a elegant picture.  

Open case back showing the calibre 591 DRL movement inside the Classique Phase de Lune 7787.

The movement used for this latest Classique 7787 is Breguet’s calibre 591 DRL, which, featuring 221 components is able to produce 38 hours of power reserve while functioning at a high-frequency of 28,800 VpH (4Hz). Again, like the Classique 5177 calibre 777 Q movement, the calibre 591 DRL uses a flat balance-spring made from silicon. The winding rotor on the back is a rhodium-plated 22-carat gold rotor with a hand-made “barley grain” guilloche finish.  

The Breguet 591 DRL movement

Breguet also states in regards to the calibre 591 DRL movement that “the addition of a pinion on the moon-phase disc enables it to offer a realistic display of the cycle, I.e 29.5303498 days instead of the 29.5 days that is generally offered by this type of complication. It is therefore close to the 29.53058888 days of the actual lunar revolution. The difference is therefore limited to just one day after 348.7 years”. 

Final Thoughts: 

This is the first time that the modern versions of the Classique 5177 and Classique 7787 timepieces get a black coloured dial, along with a platinum 950 case material. This classic design with the choice of black embraces simplicity and elagance, two design cues that Abraham-Louis Breguet aimed for when creating his own beautiful dials.  

The signature Breguet design details such as the “moon” tipped hands and Arabic hour markers against the black dial also evokes a sense of classic sophistication. While the Classique 5177 has the minimal three-hander dress watch design, the Classique 7787 takes the same design and adds sophisticated complications, while still retaining the elegance.  

Reference: 5177PT/2N/9V6.01

Specifications:

  • Case Dimensions: 38mm x 8.8mm thickness
  • Case Material: Platinum 950
  • Dial: Black “Grand Feu” enamel. Hour markers with Arabic numerals and silvered powdered timer with rhodium-plated “moon” tip Breguet hands. Date window, silvered on black background.
  • Crystal: Sapphire crystal, double anti-reflective
  • Water resistance: 30 meters (3 Bar)
  • Movement: Calibre 777 Q
  • Power reserve: 55 hours
  • Strap: Black alligator leather, satin look. Platinum pin buckle

Australian Recommended Retail Price: Price On Request.

Availability: Non-limited. Available through Breguet boutiques and authorised dealers. For more information, please head to Breguet.com

Reference: 7787PT/2N/9VU

Specifications:

  • Case Dimensions: 39mm x 10.3mm thickness
  • Case Material: Platinum 950
  • Dial: Black “Grand Feu” enamel. Hour markers with Arabic numerals and silvered powdered timer. Rhodium-plated “moon” tip Breguet hands. Rhodium-plated baton-type power reserve indicator hand. Moon phases window, blue lacquer disc, hammered gold moon, polished rhodium-plated gold stars, cycle scale.
  • Crystal: Sapphire crystal, double anti-reflective
  • Water resistance: 30 meters (3 Bar)
  • Movement: Calibre 591 DRL
  • Power reserve: 38 hours
  • Strap: Black alligator leather, satin look. Platinum triple-blade folding clasp

Australian Recommended Retail Price: Price On Request.

Availability: Non-limited. Available through Breguet boutiques and authorised dealers. For more information, please head to Breguet.com

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