We had the exclusive opportunity to visit Singapore for the launch of The Collectibles Capsule #3 and to sit down with Mathieu Sauret, the Product Marketing and Heritage director of Jaeger-LeCoultre, to discuss the latest Collectibles collection!
Jaeger-LeCoultre is presenting its third edition of the Capsule Collection, which is a meticulously curated collection of rare and sought-after timepieces created by the manufacturer. These timepieces were produced during the ‘golden age’ of watchmaking, from the 1920s to the 1970s. Jaeger-LeCoultre already unveiled two Capsule Collections last year, the first in January 2023 in Geneva and the second in June 2023 in Los Angeles, as part of the brand’s 190th-anniversary celebrations. Make sure to check out our first article on the Jager-LeCoultre’s “The Collectibles” as we take a deeper look into these first two collections!
Related Reading: Jaeger-LeCoultre “The Collectibles” Is The Rebirth Of The Brand’s Vintage Timepieces
Watch Advice had the opportunity to sit down with Mathieu Sauret (Product Marketing and Heritage Director) from Jaeger-LeCoultre in Singapore to discuss the story behind “The Collectibles” and how the third Capsule Collection will feature. The third Capsule Collection has been unveiled in Singapore as a token of appreciation for the country’s strong watch community.
The watches were unveiled at the iconic “The Warehouse Hotel” in Singapore. Matthieu Sauret flew in from Switzerland to introduce the third capsule to the Singaporean market. After the watches were introduced to the local press, a panel discussion was held between Casimir Watteau (Managing Director of South East Asia and Oceania for Jaeger-LeCoultre), Matthieu Sauret, and local vintage watch expert Shawn Tan.
This third Capsule Collection features ten exceptional timepieces curated for avid watch collectors. For those who may not know, Jaeger-LeCoultre released “The Collectibles” for those collectors who wish to acquire one of La Grande Maison’s most emblematic timepieces. It was also conceived for those enthusiasts who wanted to deepen their knowledge of a period where the watches created were significant in the advancement of Jaeger-LeCoultre and the world of horology.
Matthieu Sauret
“Initially, we felt the need to create a collector’s book. We felt the need to write the story of each of the watches and it started to look like chapters, and since we didn’t really have a collectors book, we felt we should start this endeavour. So there was a lot of discussion around the selection of the timepeices, because we have created so many timepeices in our history and collections, very interesting collections too. So we decided to create a collection of the most interesting and collectible timepieces in our history.“
“We ended up choosing seventeen watches, and really, with this idea of collectability and the most interesting to collect. Therefore we came up with the name “The Collectibles” from Jaeger-LeCoultre. We felt that with all the chapters of different timepieces, it could also become a book. At the same time, we buy watches for the museum and the exhibitions we have worldwide. Several watches on the upper market should be auctioned with dealers and whatnot, and there are some watches that we already own, maybe several models in perfect condition for museum condition. But we always see new ones coming up in auctions around the world, so we felt maybe we could buy those timepeices, and when we already have a very good model in our books, we can put it for sale in this concept of “The Collectibles” along with the book.“
“From the 17 models in the book, we sell the 17 that come up for sale! We do a full restoration of them, we don’t touch the outer part of the timepiece, so that we can keep the vintage aspect intact, we keep it unpolished, we don’t change the hands unless they are too worn off, we don’t change the dial and so on. Still, we do a complete cleaning, dismantling, and reassembling the calibre movement. These watches that are maybe 60 or 70 years old are good to live a long life again, and people who want to buy them can enjoy a museum timepiece in their collection, which is very important for us and makes a lot of sense.”
The Collectibles series has seventeen watches in total. The brand chose the number seventeen specifically because these were some of the significant timepieces that made history for Jaeger-LeCoultre or watchmaking as a whole, created during the period defined as the “golden era” of watchmaking. Each timepiece that is part of “The Collectibles” has its own distinctive style, which stems from the period it was created in.
The third Capsule Collection features ten timepieces that range from rarely-seen interpretations of the Reverso and Memovox with eye-catching dials to classic examples. This Capsule Collection also features more highly sought-after models like the Master Mariner Deep Sea from 1970 and the Triple Calendar from 1945. Another timepiece that stands out in this collection is the Powermatic. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Powermatic was known for its reliability, beauty and the power-reserve indicator on the dial.
Matthieu Sauret
“In regards to the selection number, we didn’t plan to do exactly 17 models; we started with the list, and we ended up on 17, because all these watches that span from the late 1920s to the late 1970s represent a time period where its called the “golden age” of fine watchmaking where watches were designed by hand without computer editing tools etc. Watches were worn and made for a reason, such as telling time; there was no digital tool that could tell time during this “golden age” period.”
“The 17 pieces were selected basically from 3 important criteria. The first one was the “historical importance” of the manufacture of Jaeger-LeCoultre and watchmaking as a whole. For example, we created a generation of watches when you see the Reverso. The second is the watchmaking pedigree. Jaeger-LeCoultre is the watchmaker’s watchmaker, so it’s quite important to have agreeable watchmaking content, and all of them, in a way, represent a watchmaking first or a decisive moment for watchmaking in the watchmaking pedigree. The third element was the design element that the watch represents. All of the chosen models represent a period of style and design that was important in the history of mechanical watchmaking. All of this makes these watches go down in history, interesting for collectors to buy because they are unusual. They bring out something, and they have changed the history of not only Jaeger-LeCoultre but also watchmaking as a whole.”
For Jaeger-LeCoultre, the hunt for vintage timepieces is not only for The Collectibles series but also for the museum in the Manufacture. Finding vintage timepieces is all in the thrill of the chase. Sometimes you may come across some incredible and rare timepieces in places that you may also least expect. Its also the case of having a great network that you can rely on when a rare Jaeger-LeCoultre piece pops up, they are able to notify you and jump on the chance.
Matthieu Sauret
“The beauty of what we do and buying watches for museums is that you never know what you are going to find. Because watches come up for auction, you cannot look for something particular; just have to be aware and have a lot of people be in touch with you and have a good relationship with everybody, so when they spot something amazing when the pieces go up for sale or auction. Sometimes, you find a time capsule that takes you through what this watch is, what this watch is made for, and who owned it, so it’s really a travel through time, and you are never really sure when and how you are going to find it. So, all the watches that are here for sale in Singapore represent a story behind each piece. But the beauty is not only just sort of newer stock; it’s also with watches that are 70 or 80 years of age that have aged beautifully with time. And some of these watches will have a patina that will bring more beauty in the design. So, it’s a time capsule within each watch being sold.”
When The Collectibles first started, it was a way for Jaeger-LeCoultre to increase awareness and knowledge about the history of their timepieces. While some collectors know of the historical value of the timepiece they may hold, and, in turn, may want to sell it back to Jaeger-LeCoultre, most of the time, it has been the case of the owner not knowing they have such an interesting timepiece on their hands. They watch could have been passed down from generation to generation as some of these timepeices can be more than 80 years old!
Matthieu Sauret
“What has happened the most is that a lot of collectors have really interesting watches, but they may not think that it’s that interesting or valuable when they purchase them on the spur of the moment. After they learn the history of this watch and they find out that its a whole other world, and they find it to be fascinating. It’s also the case that the collectors that might have wanted to sell the timepiece, after finding out about the history of the watch, actually want to keep it now and get it serviced, at least for the calibre to enjoy the watch much longer. This has definitely been something that has been like a side-effect of the project. This was the goal from the beginning: to get people interested in the watches and to learn the timepiece’s story.”
Just for clarification, The Collectibles only feature 17 historical Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces. This means that from 1920 to 1980, Jaeger-LeCoultre found 17 references that, as mentioned earlier, have either a historical significance for the brand or the world of horology, or have a unique design that belongs to the specific time period it was created in. From these 17 references, Jaeger-LeCoultre will hunt down as many as possible, to which they will then put them towards a “Capsule Collection”. These Capsule Collections will feature different versions of the 17 references; however, they won’t feature all 17 at once. It can be the same reference from the original 17 models, but perhaps in different materials or dial colours.
Matthieu Sauret
“So we cater to only 17 models, and among the 17 models we offer in each capsule collection, what we found is that each timepiece of that particular reference can be quite unique and quite different. Within the Reverso for example, there is an array of different dials, and there is different case materials, some cases for ladies, some for men. Even within those 17 models, it also shows the wide array and inspiration of Jaeger-LeCoultre in those years to create really amazing watches with different iterations of the same reference model.”
“Collectors have always been driven by different interests, so I think all the models that we have shown have captured attention. I suppose one of the things that comes to mind is the Memovox. It’s a calibre that is present among several models, but one that stands out is the deep sea alarm. It’s the first diving watch of Jaeger-LeCoultre, and it was the first diving watch in the world with an alarm. They are very rare, and we have never offered one in a capsule because they are very hard to find. So this is certainly a model that has captured the attention of people a lot, and when we do the capsule collections, we always try to bring the Museum pieces along so people can see that what we sell is really museum-worthy quality.”
Restoring Vintage timepieces is certainly no easy task. However, jaeger-LeCoultre have been fortunate enough to be doing restoration works for over 40 years. When Watch Advice had the opportunity to take a Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture tour, we saw some parts of the facility where restoration of vintage timepeices occur, with several watchmakers hard at work! Through these restoration works, it also gives you a deeper appreciation for the timepieces, and Jaeger-LeCoultre rich and extension history.
Matthieu Sauret
“You know we at Jaeger_LeCoultre were very lucky because first, we have been doing restoration works for over 40 years, and all the watches we feature in this Collectibles collection are born from the Manufacture. We were established in 1833, and all the watches that we are selling in Singapore for the third capsule collection have calibres that have been manufactured within the company. So all the watches that came have been assembled within our walls. So, we not only have the plans, all the calibres, information, and some of the vintage parts, but We also have the knowledge that has been passed on from watchmaker to watchmaker. Restoration is still a challenge, of course, because the calibres are vintage and historic, but it’s not something that we haven’t done before. In a way, these watches are “coming back home”, so it makes it a bit easier for us to work on them.”
The three different Capsule Collections in The Collectibles have all had three different locations in which they were unveiled, and watch aficionados, collectors, and clients could see these special vintage watches up close. The first Capsule Collection was unveiled in Geneva in January 2023, while the second Capsule Collection was showcased mid-way through last year in Los Angeles. Now, this third and latest Capsule Collection is being shown in Asia in Singapore, a country in which Jaeger-LeCoultre has seen a lot of love, especially in regards to their vintage timepieces.
Even though the third Capsule Collection is being unveiled in Singapore, this doesn’t mean that the sale of these vintage timepieces is restricted. The whole collection is up for purchase online, which means that it gives buyers the possibility of owning a Jaeger-LeCoultre Capsule Collection timepiece regardless of where you are in the world!
Matthieu Sauret
“So each time we present a Capsule timepiece, we put it for sale, and it goes really quickly. Unfortunately, we never have enough. We have many more requests than we can offer watches, and on the two first Capsule Collections, we have a lot of sales from around the world. In Asia, there are a lot of sales. Singapore was one of the markets that captured a lot of attention. So when we discussed about having one capsule revealed in Asia, we chose Singapore. It’s a place that I feel has people who are very into vintage watches, and interest is high in collectible pieces. We wanted to do a celebration for Singapore for the love they have shown towards this project!”
“And yes, the collection is available to everyone! We’ll, of course, accommodate a digital preview of the piece if a client is interested, but yeah, we wanted to keep a global view of the Collectibles project and be able to share this around the world and not just selective to just one area, even though we have this nice exhibition here in Singapore and people are able to view it in person. The idea was to travel but also be available around the world as it is very important for us that everybody has a chance to buy this kind of timepiece, not just be restricted to one country or territory.“
When The Collectibles venture started, it certainly bought a lot of demand for Jaeger-LeCoultre vintages back into the spotlight. With demand for certain vintage models being high, its a point to consider whether the brand may release a modern re-interpretation for that particular historical reference, much like how other Swiss brands have done it.
But Jaeger-LeCoultre doesn’t see it this way. The modern collections are rather a “continuation” of the historical timepieces, and The Collectibles collections bridge the gap between historic timepieces and modern re-interpretations. In a way, this is the brand offering a modern interpretation of a historical reference by keeping much of the timepiece in the same design as when it was released and only changing what’s required to keep it ticking.
Matthieu Sauret
“Jaeger-LeCoultre always works with the past. Every creation that we have has some inspiration from our history, and when we make watches, it’s a continuation of our past creations, so I would be more inclined to talk about continuity rather than bringing back a model from the past. In our range of watches, for example, we have the Reverso along with the Polaris, which are all part of The Collectibles. Still, it’s more of a continuation of the line rather than simply a reproduction of an original model. For this, we have The Collectibles, whereby you can buy a vintage piece and a reproduction of a vintage timepiece with modern technology.“
“I think the beauty and fun of watchmaking is that you have watches here that are almost 80 years of age, and they still can be worn and operate beautifully, and I think that’s the beauty of fine watchmaking. Something that is extremely timeless that you are going to be able to wear for your entire life and also be able to pass it to your kids. So I think watchmaking with this essence is extremely beautiful, and “The Collectibles” adds to this timelessness of watchmaking.“
So this all begs the question, what is the main benefit of buying through Jaeger-LeCoultre, rather than buying it straight from the vintage market or through auction? The main obvious answer is that through Jaeger-LeCoultre, you aren’t just simply getting a historical timepiece. You are getting a watch that’s part historical and slightly modern. The timepiece has been restored where required (mainly the calibre movement) to keep the watch operational while keeping the design and vintage appearance of the timepiece intact.
Buying the watches through these Capsule Collections also offers the buyer protection incase the watch needs maintenance or if anything was to go wrong. Jaeger-LeCoultre offers buyers a two-year warranty, which gives confidence in knowing that it can be taken back to Jaeger-LeCoultre to be repaired free of charge. This is certainly not something you’ll get through the vintage watch market.
Matthieu Sauret
“So the brand is curated and working on curation, so we see several dozen watches every day that are going to auction, so our knowledge or our ability to find very rare pieces helps with finding these rare pieces. Sometimes, finding these watches can be a service, and we see it as such, but we, of course, encourage people to hunt the watches for themselves. If you want a service provided to you, then we can do it. It’s also in terms of the knowledge. We bring out the knowledge of the watches, and then maybe you go out into the market and find a similar watch. You can always send it back to the Manufacture for restoration, as this is something we offer and enjoy doing.”
“The auction market is full of great watches, and “The Collectibles” is a great way to shed light on the great history of fine watchmaking. It’s a way to tell the history of the La Grande Maison and watchmaking as a whole. But it’s also a way to highlight the beauty and the interest of collectors in going and hunting for pieces. So we really encourage you to do it alongside us!“
“All the watches in “The Collectibles” are sold with a new box and a new strap. We also feature instruction and an extract from the archives done by our expert watchmakers, which tells the year of the production, the exact reference model, the metals used, and the name of the calibre, alongside other useful information. Also, we gift a book of The Collectibles, the official collector’s book in this venture, as part of the purchase.”
When one gets involved this closely with a project like this, it can be quite difficult not to get caught up in the interest of it all and want to own a vintage timepiece. With so many different pieces that come through the Manufacture, each with its own story, not only about the timepiece but also about its ownership, each individual timepiece is unique. For Mathieu, however, this isn’t the case, as he has to refrain from buying watches for private ownership that can form part of The Collectibles or even go towards the Jaeger-LeCoultre museum.
Matthieu Sauret
“So for the sake of the project, I refrain from getting any vintage timepieces that are part of The Collectibles collection, I’m more into “young timers” which are like 1990 watches. Of course, when you work on a project like this, you cannot be a part of it privately also. But it has certainly developed my love for vintage watches immensely. I first wrote The Collectibles book with my team through lengthy research. I was also involved in the process of being able to buy these hidden gem watches for not only the museum but also for The Collectibles collection.“
“It’s definitely a hunt; it’s very adrenaline-driven to sort of go on a quest to find those nice watches. And when they come up, when you receive them for restoration, it’s always amazing to see, and when you present them to collectors, you are also enjoying the moment and sharing the love of the Jaeger-LeCoultre. The whole company embarked on this project, and I think it’s wonderful to have the whole team behind it because a lot of people who work on the new watches at the manufacturer probably didn’t know all the stories of the watches also themselves. They knew some stories we didn’t, so there were many rich knowledge exchanges.”
“But buying vintage watches and following the vintage market, it’s crazy how some gems have been there forever and been worn, and sometimes they come up, and the person wearing them didn’t know how rare or extraordinary the timepiece was! So when they realise they are actually owning a timeless watch with significance in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s history, its exciting to see!“
The Collectibles – Capsule #3 Timepieces
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Small Seconds
Reference: QVE20100
Details: 39 x 21 mm – Stainless steel
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 69,500
Availability: To Inquire or for more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Parking
Reference: QVE85802
Details: 34 mm – Stainless steel
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 36,500
Availability: To Inquire or for more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Mariner Deep Sea Barracuda
Reference: QVE55802
Details: 40 x 37 mm – Stainless steel
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 44,700
Availability: Already sold. For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Polaris II
Reference: QVE87002
Details: 50 x 43 mm – Stainless steel
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 45,700
Availability: To Inquire or for more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Automatic Calendar
Reference: QVE85504
Details: 37 mm – Yellow Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 82,500
Availability: Already sold. For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duopan Coulissante
Reference: QVEDUO01
Details: Yellow Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 36,500
Availability: Already sold. For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au
Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Lady’s Watch
Reference: QVE64000
Details: Yellow Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 73,000
Availability: Already sold. For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au
Jaeger-LeCoultre Powermatic
Reference: QVERASC2
Details: 33 mm – Yellow Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 32,900
Availability: To Inquire or for more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Lady
Reference: QVE50101
Details: 16 x 33 mm – Stainless steel
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 45,700
Availability: Already sold. For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au
Jaeger-LeCoultre Triple Calendar
Reference: QVE27210
Details: 35 MM – Yellow Gold 750/1000 (18 carats)
Australian Recommended Retail Price: AU$ 45,700
Availability: To Inquire or for more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.au
Third Capsule Collection Location
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s third Capsule Collection will be available for viewing from October 13th to 23rd at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Official Boutique in Marina Bay Sands, Singapore.
Address
2 Bayfront Avenue
B2M-231 & 231A, Casino Level
The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands
018972 Singapore – Singapore
Opening Hours
Monday: 10:30 – 22:00
Tuesday: 10:30 – 22:00
Wednesday: 10:30 – 22:00
Thursday: 10:30 – 22:00
Friday: 10:30 – 23:00
Saturday: 10:30 – 23:00
Sunday: 10:30 – 22:00
For more information, please head to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Collectibles website!
