On paper, these ‘odd couple’ pairings may seem crazy to some, but sometimes, these things are just crazy enough to work! This is especially true in the watch industry, as these five unorthodox pairings demonstrate.
1 – Louis Vuitton x Akrivia
Perhaps the least strange of the five I’ll discuss is a recent collaborative effort between Parisian fashion juggernaut Louis Vuitton and a red-hot independent watchmaking company, Akrivia. While the former’s ventures into watchmaking are well-known, a collaboration with the Geneva-based workshop was surely not on anybody’s bingo cards.
But hindsight is 20/20, and given the personalities driving both brands, we should have seen this coming. Jean Arnault, presiding head of the Louis Vuitton watchmaking division, has made significantly bold strides to remaster the brand’s entire lineup. Rexhep Rexhepi, founder of Akrivia (and owner of the coolest name ever, might I add) shares a similarly daring passion for the craft, with his reputation and skill as an independent watchmaker skyrocketing after his tenure at Patek Philippe.
At just a combined 63 years of age (young by watchmaking standards), it almost seemed inevitable that these two incredible minds would meet, resulting in the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie. Encased in the new Tambour case of platinum, the Chronographe à Sonnerie is a double-sided watch bursting at the seams with refined complexity. It features a smoky translucent sapphire front dial with gold accents and Plique-à-jour fired enamel, whilst the back dial is grand feu enamel with colour-coordinated hands and chronograph scales. Powered by Akrivia’s exclusive LVRR-01 movement, a five-minute tourbillon, chronograph, minute repeater, and a 72-hour power reserve, this piece is the perfect combo of artistic flair and devastating technical talent.
What makes this collaboration unique is that this watch, representing the peak of horological excellence, also marks two surprising firsts in Louis Vuitton’s illustrious history. The Chronographe à Sonnerie is the first-ever collaboration within the Louis Vuitton watchmaking division, and it is also the first time the famous LV monogram logo has merged with another brand! However, as young as they are, both Arnault and Rexhepi are no strangers to horological audacity. Thus, the Akrivia and Louis Vuitton logos are merged on the dial, proudly declaring that “Louis cruises with Rexhep.”
Learn more about the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie at Akrivia
2 – Zenith x Lupin The Third
When the industry gets into popular culture, things begin to get a little bit bizarre. No other brand knows this better than Zenith, who, amongst their many collaborators, have entertained a partnership between themselves and ‘Monkey Punch’ (Kazuhiko Katō), creator of the popular multi-hyphenate franchise Lupin III.
For those unfamiliar with the franchise, Lupin III is primarily a Japanese manga and anime series centred around the gang led by Arsène Lupin III, grandson to the gentleman thief originally penned by Maurice LeBlanc. Zenith come into the picture thanks to the character Daisuke Jigen. The dry, level-headed right-hand man of Arsène Lupin III has been spotted on numerous occasions wearing Zenith timepieces, the most recognisable of which is a duo of A384 El Primero watches!
Zenith eventually loved the integration so much that, when the 50th anniversary of the El Primero calibre came around in 2019, they elected to release a limited edition run of the Chronomaster Revival A384 in the same colourway as Jigen’s.
The ball would continue rolling with a limited release of Jigen’s white panda A384 in 2020, swiftly followed by a piece unique, true-to-life adaptation of the original – including the dulled ‘Z’ and ‘H.’ That watch would go on to sell at a Phillips Auction for a monumental CHF189,000!
Of course, all good things must come to an end, but Zenith wasn’t about to depart from this collaboration without a bang. Thus, in 2023, they would release the Final Edition – featuring both the original black and the white panda dials, split diagonally in half! This, for me, is one of my all-time grail pieces. It’s an obvious and irreverent aesthetic, but one that doesn’t get in your face – much like the stylish character that inspired it. Just in case you forgot who it belonged to, don’t worry, as every Lupin III Chronomaster Revival A384 features a silhouette of the iconic gunman on the back.
Learn more about the Zenith Chronomaster Revival x Lupin III Final Edition at Zenith-Watches
3 – CASIO x UNO
Things only get weirder from here with this next release from CASIO Granted, watch brands collaborating with toy companies such as Mattel aren’t that detached from reality – IWC, for example, released a Hot Wheels collaboration of matchbox cars a few years back – the creative spark never seems to go the other way around.
The possibilities are endless, though! Imagine a wristwatch paying homage to the automotive imaginings of Hot Wheels, or perhaps a military/naval timepiece inspired by Hasbro’s Battleship. If you’re CASIO, however, you’ve opted this year to release a new limited edition A168W paying homage to the popular card game UNO.
Invented in 1971, UNO is a card game involving four suits of brightly coloured cards, with each player racing to be the first to run out by putting down colour or number-matching cards from their deck each turn. This is reflected through the design of this CASIO’s digital display, where the four suit colours outlining the watch, with the UNO logo emblazoned on the bottom right.
When you hit the light function, another tribute to the card game can be seen, as the word ‘Wild’ appears on the LCD – referencing the wild cards that can instantly change the game’s dynamic, such as reversing the turn order or forcing a player to pick up more cards.
The references continue with an engraved UNO card on the clasp, but the most endearing and whimsical touch is on the case back. Using UNO cards, the number ‘168’ has been arranged, in accordance with the reference number of the watch. It even comes in a packaging inspired by the bright red box containing an UNO deck!
I adore wacky collabs like this, and if you’re like me this inexpensive, yet hilariously fun piece is on your radar – but act quick, as it’s a limited edition, so grab one before someone calls UNO on the last piece available!
Learn more about the CASIO A168W UNO Limited Edition at Casio.com
4 – Audemars Piguet x Cactus Jack (Travis Scott)
This timepiece enters the world of hip-hop and rap through its bombastic collaboration with a modern staple of the music industry. While the industry is no stranger to its icons commingling within the watch world – Jay-Z, Pharrell, John Mayer and Ed Sheeran all come to mind – it’s still a concept that is few and far between. However, Les Brassus brand Audemars Piguet is never one to shy away from ostentatious horology. Thus, they elected to recently drop a collaboration with the venerable hip-hop/rap icon Travis Scott under his moniker/brand label, Cactus Jack.
First coming into view with his 2015 debut album, Rodeo, Scott’s reputation has since exploded, indelibly making his mark in the modern rap scene. His style, ethos, and authenticity have allowed him to connect with hundreds of millions worldwide, giving way to groundbreaking collaborations within mainstream pop culture, namely his contributions with McDonald’s or in Epic Games’ ever-popular Fortnite: Battle Royale. His innate ability to inspire millions is perhaps what drew Audemars Piguet to him in the first place, as one of their latest limited edition runs of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was crafted to reflect the creativity of the rapper and producer.
Crafted in brown ceramic – a first for the brand – the 41mm timepiece includes several signature aesthetic changes thanks to Cactus Jack. The typography of the dial is taken directly from Scott’s hand-drawn concept, and even the Cactus Jack logo has replaced the 9 o’clock day subdial. The most noticeable change, however, is that of the moonphase, taken over by the Cactus Jack emblem of the smiley face with the mouth sewn shut. On the case back, the rose gold rotor of Audemars Piguet’s Cal. 5135 has also been changed to the Cactus Jack logo, accompanied by a caseback engraved with the words “UTOPIA: A STATE OF MIND.”
Collaborations between brands and individuals is always a difficult task, as surrendering creative control to an outsider has a litany of risks attached. But, the Cactus Jack Audemars Piguet is an example of a collab gone right, as the creativity of the musician has allowed for a unique aesthetic unmatched by any other – both in Audemars Piguet’s lineup and within the industry itself.
Learn more about the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Openworked “Cactus Jack” at AudemarsPiguet.com
5 – Heuer (TAG Heuer) x Abercrombie & Fitch
In the end, we go back to the beginning as we explore one of the most iconic and unexpected collaborations in watchmaking history. In the modern day, a watch brand collaborating with clothing brands is hardly an uncommon occurrence. Breitling, Hublot, and TAG Heuer, for example, are all significant brands in the watch space that have at one stage collaborated with fashion brands like Outerknown, Berluti, and KITH respectively.
The practice of collaborating with clothing brands is somewhat divisive in the watch community, especially recently with the TAG Heuer x KITH collaboration. However, what some tend to forget is that TAG Heuer – formerly known as Heuer – is widely recognised to be the first watch brand to ever do such a thing.
Founded in 1892, Abercrombie & Fitch Co. is an American fashion and lifestyle retailer with a focus on sporting and excursion goods, with their eventual clothing line following this aesthetic. Though not as globally recognised in the 21st Century, their reputation is nothing short of elite, having outfitted historical icons such as Theodore Roosevelt and Ernest Hemingway.
From the late 40s to the 70s, Abercrombie & Fitch’s reputation was built not just on their prowess with clothing, but also through a collaborative effort with a Swiss watch brand called Heuer. Having already released the Solunar in 1949, Charles-Edouard Heuer would eventually create the Seafarer in an effort to appeal to sailors and outdoorsmen. The Seafarer likely appealed to Abercrombie & Fitch’s sporting heritage and spirit, and may have contributed to Heuer proceeding to distribute their Seafarer watches through the brand.
Related Reading: Baume & Mercier Unveils Riviera Tideograph
The Seafarer’s design is unlike any other produced by Heuer or even TAG Heuer. The Ref. 346, the most recognisable of the Seafarer references, featured bold Arabic numerals, a chronograph accompanied by a 30-minute register marked with 5-minute intervals, and the very unusual tideograph complication. A complication almost lost to time, the tideograph indicates the two highest and the two lowest tides of each day, in accordance with the gravitational forces of the Earth, Moon and Sun.
The Heuer x Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer is a legendary and irreplaceable design, not only making its mark as one of the most iconic watches of the Heuer brand, but also signifying a major turning point for the watch industry in terms of collaboration with outside brands.
Final Thoughts:
The modern watch world is rife with brand collaborations. Almost every brand is looking to capitalise off the market that an individual or outsider brand brings, with justifications ranging from the sharing of brand values to a ‘just because’ sense of whimsy. But as I’ve said before, even the most whimsical of collaborations go beyond the mere contract signing and logo-melding, and must still pay respect to both industries.
Related Reading: These Watch Collabs Don’t Exist (But I Wish They Did!)
More often than not, you get ‘odd couple’ pairings that just don’t make sense in the big picture – the five brands I just mentioned are great examples of such, and typically go against the unspoken recipe to a successful watch collaboration. However, because of their staunch defiance of convention, they work. Thus, these five collaborations have not only left an impression on the industry but also to the average consumer, demonstrating what kinds of fantastical outcomes are possible thanks to collaborating with a range of unique creatives.
