Credor Revives a Long-Lost Genta Design

by Mario C

The spirit of horology’s greatest-ever watch designer lives on through Credor! Sourced straight from the archives, the Credor Locomotive has officially been reborn.

Gerald Genta is a name you may have heard about in the watch world. The only things regarded higher than the man himself are his works – from his mind spawned some of the most iconic watch designs in history, from the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak to the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and even more obscure works like the watches he designed for Bulgari. One thing’s for certain, though: European brands always fostered his designs. Or did they? Spoiler Alert: They didn’t.

Related Reading: The Legacy of Iconic Watch Designs: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Part One

One Genta design was made on the other side of the world for the Japanese brand Credor. Founded in 1974, Credor’s name comes from the French Créte d’Or – ‘golden peak’ – and operates under the Seiko banner. Think of them like Grand Seiko on steroids, ‘Grand-er Seiko,’ if you prefer. Some may think that, for the man that designed some of the most legendary watches of all time, working with Seiko might seem somewhat insulting. However, Genta took pride in his work, and was extremely fascinated by every facet of the watchmaking industry. The values of Seiko and their founder Kintaro Hattori had a special place in Genta’s heart, and thoroughly enjoyed working with them.

The hexagonal bezel shape is inspired by the appearance of a locomotive train.

1979 would see the release of Genta’s latest brainchild, the Credor Locomotive. With a rounded hexagonal shape inspired by the appearance of a locomotive train, these timepieces were produced exclusively for the Credor brand in the seventies and eighties but would disappear over time. In 2024, Credor has opted to finally bring revive the iconic design, inspired by the original timepieces and the sketch made by Genta all those years ago.

As is standard with most Genta designs, the Credor Locomotive is geometric and powerful, featuring exposed screws and a bracelet reminiscent of the Royal Oak. However, there are distinct differences between the two: the Locomotive possesses larger screws, serving a practical function in keeping the watch together. The bracelet remains separate from the case due to male end links, and the crown is situated at 4 o’clock, preventing it from digging into the wrist. Credor also accentuated the original’s dial grey-black finish, mimicking steam emanating from the timepiece’s namesake.

For this 2024 model, Credor has upgraded several aspects of the Locomotive, from replacing the 39mm case with high-intensity titanium to creating an entirely new movement solely for the watch. The Cal. CR01 provides a 4Hz (28,800bph) beat rate backed by a 45-hour power reserve, which gives the watch specifications well within the luxury standards. The reasoning behind the Cal. CR01, however, was to maintain the integrity of the design, giving the watch a 9mm thickness similar to the original model.

Final Thoughts

I have been waiting for the moment for a long time, and I honestly can’t believe it’s here. Genta’s designs are known the world over, but somehow, this one managed to slip beneath the radar. As glad as I am that it’s finally getting a spotlight, I am somewhat disappointed that it’s not being offered as a standard model. Only 100 pieces are being released worldwide, with the other 200 only being available in Japan.

Original 1979 Locomotive Sketch

Still, it goes to show that horology is moving in the right direction. Heritage is being recognised now more than ever, and it’s awesome to see obscure, long-lost designs finally receiving the limelight. While it’s a little different from what you’d usually see from the Seiko family, the Credor Locomotive represents Japan’s slice of Genta’s legacy whilst reminding the rest of the world of the incredible feats of craftsmanship available outside of Europe.

Reference:  GCCR999

Specifications:

  • Case Size: 38.8 mm case diameter
  • Case Thickness: 8.9mm
  • Case Material: Bright titanium
  • Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
  • Dial: Black
  • Movement: In-house automatic CR01 movement
  • Movement Frequency: 4Hz (28,800 VpH)
  • Movement: Power Reserve: 45 hours
  • Water Resistance: 100m (10 Bar)
  • Strap/Bracelet: Bright titanium multi-row bracelet with folding clasp and push buttons

Australian Recommended Retail Price: TBD (Approx. AUD $12,000)

Availability: August 9, limited to 300 pieces. 200 pieces for Japan-only release. See https://www.credor.com/ for more information.

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