Audemars Piguet has quietly dropped seven new Code 11:59 pieces overnight along with several Royal Oaks and Offshores, but are these the standout?
AP isn’t one for a lot of fanfare. They tend to just release models and not make a big deal until eagle-eyed fans and the watch press see that there are new pieces on their site. Now before you start saying, “Yes, but the John Mayer Royal Oak QP is all over socials!” which is true, the Code 11:59 range all in pink gold has somewhat flown under the radar. Which to us is a bit of a shame as these pieces stand on their own merits. And look good nonetheless too!
So, what exactly did they drop? We have two size variants on offer – 38mm and 41mm. In the 38mm, we see two new pink gold models and in the 41mm, we have two new time only with a date and three new automatic chronograph models to suit all tastes. And the colours that AP has chosen seem to be spot on in our opinion. Subtle and not-so-subtle blues and greens that work so very well with the pink gold cases.
AP has taken their design codes from last year’s releases on the Code 11:59 models, and extended this through to the 2024 collection. Audemars Piguet has stated that the “signature” embossed dial pattern was “specially created for the collection and replaced the previous dials that were more sober in design. Conceived by the Audemars Piguet design team in collaboration with Swiss guilloché craftsman Yann von Kaenel, this decoration enhances legibility and the play on the light.”
Compared to the original dials on the Code 11:59 range which were a lot more plain and somber, these new dial motifs make these, and sets them on their own trajectory like the Royal Oak’s Tapisserie dials which are now both iconic and revered! Audemars Piguet uses a technique on these dials to attain the effect of ripples on water. In short, the base dies are used to strike the dial’s feature pattern and then the circles are adorned with hundreds of tiny holes that play with the light. After this, they are then coloured using a PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) or galvanic process which acts to create the contouring and depth.
AP has chosen to release these new models all in pink gold cases, which not only give them an air of luxury (yes, even more so than the AP brand exemplifies) and with the colourways, enhance the look of the pieces, providing a perfect contrast to the dials and matching coloured straps. Pink gold always seems to match perfectly with darker blues and green, which AP has done beautifully here, but in addition to this, the light blue of the 38mm automatic gives this piece a fresh summery feel, especially when paired with the light blue alligator strap.
Inside the Code 11:59 collection beats the heart of two distinct calibres. In the Chronograph versions, the Calibre 4401 is an integrated self-winding chronograph with a column wheel and flyback function. This calibre is also equipped with a vertical gear system that prevents the hands from jumping when the chronograph is activated or stopped. This ensures accurate timekeeping and ensures smooth operation without fail.
In the time/date models, Audemars Piguet has enlisted the use of two different calibres. In the 38mm beats the heart of the Calibre 5900, which was introduced on some 37 mm Royal Oak models in 2022. This movement is 3.9mm, beats at a frequency of 4Hz / 28,800 Vph and features a 60-hour power reserve. The 41mm models feature the Calibre 4302, which is 1mm thicker at 4.9mm, and due to the larger movement, has a 70 hour power reserve. Both these calibres, like the 4401 feature the open-worked pink gold rotor with AP logo, and the bridges feature Côtes de Genéve and pearlage on the baseplate.
Final Thoughts
The Code 11:59 collection is getting better with each release, and whilst some armchair commentators have voiced their dislike for the Code 11:59, it seems that with these new releases, it’s now standing on its own. Yes, the Royal Oak will always be iconic, classic, legendary (and what other phrases of adoration you want to put out there) but the Code 11:59 is now firmly cemented in the AP catalogue and with the evolution of the cases and dials, is now making its mark on the watch world.
The other point to note is you can with some patience and persistence, buy a Code 11:59. If you have not seen these in person, then I would strongly recommend trying to view these in the metal, as the patterned dials with the gold really stand and in the sun, even more so. Personally speaking, if I were to look at an AP, yes the Royal Oak would be great to have on my wrist, but I would happily purchase one of these new Code 11:59’s should I be in the fortunate position to do so!
References:
- 77410OR.OO.A344CR.01 – 38mm Light Blue
- 77410OR.OO.A342CR.01 – 38mm Dark Blue
- 15210OR.OO.A348KB.01 – 41mm Dark Blue
- 15210OR.OO.A056KB.01 – 41mm Green
- 26393OR.OO.A348KB.01 – 41mm Blue Chronograph
- 26393OR.OO.A056KB.01 – 41mm Green Chronograph
- 26393NR.OO.A002KB.02 – 41mm Black Chronograph
Specification
- Case: 38mm or 41mm
- Thickness: 12.6mm (41mm Chrono) / 10.7mm (41mm) / 9.6mm (38mm)
- Case Material: 18k pink gold
- Dial: Light blue (38mm), “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” (38mm, 41mm and 41mm Chrono), Green (41mm Chrono and 41mm) and Black (41mm Chrono)
- Crystal: Glareproofed double-curved sapphire crystal
- Water resistance: 30m (3 Bar)
- Movement: AP Automatic calibres: Calibre 5900 (38mm), Calibre 4401 (41mm Chrono) & Calibre 4302 (41mm). Beating at 4Hz / 28,800 Vph.
- Power reserve: 60hrs (38mm) and 70 hours (41mm/412mm Chrono)
- Straps: Colour matched to the dials – Green, black & blue textured rubber strap (41mm Chrono and 41mm). Pearly light or dark blue alligator strap with large-scale squares (38mm). All with 18k pink gold pin buckle.
International Recommended Retail Price:
- 43,300 CHF – 41mm Chronograph
- 30,900 CHF – 41mm Automatic
- 29,800 CHF – 38mm Automatic
