Tudor has released the latest model in their Black Bay Fifty-Eight collection, which features two first for the brand and their divers’ timepieces. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 for the first time has a case made from 925 silver and also features an open case back.
This latest release from Tudor is also a nod to their 1958 reference 7924 (Big Crown) model, which was the first TUDOR divers’ watch to waterproofed to 200m (660ft). Tudor has taken design cues from Ref. 7924 for this new timepiece, such as the aesthetics and the 39mm case size to keep the same characteristic proportions as the original model.
Design:
The use of 925 silver for the case is something that the brand kept close to its chest in secret for a while. The use of 925 silver alloy means that that normal wear will not affect the appearance of the timepiece, and will continuously look to give that incandescent brilliance over time. Tudor has given the 925 silver case a satin-finish to give off more of a matte effect. The use of this alloy on this diver’s timepiece certainly brings new light to the timepiece, by making it not only a tool watch but also a precious object.
To give a nice blend of aesthetics and not a direct contrast to the 925 silver case, Tudor has made both the dial and bezel in the taupe colour. Then to match the case numerous silver details are added throughout the watch, such as the bezel markings, graduations, text, and the iconic Tudor “Snowflake” hands.
The screw-down winding crown has also been made from 925 silver, which includes Tudor’s rose in a relief design. To not direct attention away from the beautiful dial and case, the fabric strap has been given the same colour palette.
Movement:
Tudor has given the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 movement. The movement has been built by Tudor to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability, and precision, as it contains a variable inertia balance along with a non-magnetic silicon hairspring. The movement has been certified by COSC as well.
The MT5400 movement has a frequency of 28 800 VpH (4Hz) and has a “weekend proof” power reserve of 70 hours. What this essentially means is that the wearer can take the watch off on Friday evening and wear it again on Monday morning, making it the perfect office watch!
One of the new features of this Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is of course the open case back. The movement has the finish of typical Tudor Calibres. The rotor in tungsten monobloc is skeletonised and is satin-brushed with sand-blasted details. The bridges and mainplate have different finishes which alternate from sand-blasted, polished to laser decorations.
With a case size of 39mm, this is a perfect timepiece for slimmer wrists. Vintage enthusiasts will also be able to enjoy this model for its call back to the original 1950’s reference 7924. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 certainly is a great tool watch with just the right amount of class.
