Matt Clymo 
Harkening back to the early 1900s, the new Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas Watch takes its wearer on a journey back in time to when elegance meets functionality.
The 1930s was a bit of a turning point when it came to women and timepieces. Pocket watches and wristwatches were more of a Man’s domain, and when it came to watches for women, watches were not common but gaining in popularity. They were still very much highly functional pieces, and while women were gaining more independence, watches took more the form of jewellery than the conventional watch. It meant that ladies could wear a watch and keep track of the time discretely, something of an unwritten rule of ladies’ fashion at the time.. Maisons such as Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Van Cleef & Arpels were at the forefront of designing small timepieces hidden in jewellery, and for Watches & Wonders 2025, Van Cleef & Arpels have tapped into this with the release of the new Cadenas watch, or “Padlock” in French.
Originally designed in 1935 in yellow gold, this was more a Surrealist take on a design concept from French-American artist, Marcel Duchamp. His “Readymade” artistic expression took ordinary objects and placed them in unusual or unexpected locations and positions which he then declared art. In the case of the Cadenas, it echoes the idea of a padlock in a new and unusual situation, such as a watch.
Later in 1936, Van Cleef & Arpels would introduce sapphires and rubies to the upper case of the watch as well as the clasp, and in 1938, expanded with the use of diamonds and then emeralds in 1943. The 2025 Cadenas watch takes these design cues and incorporates them into the piece, using 18k yellow and white gold, diamonds, and sapphires. The diamonds are all snow set on the piece, encrusting the padlock shape and adorning the dial of the watch itself.
All up, Van Cleef & Arpels has used 1491 diamonds equating to 7.65 carats. Across the top of the lock, there are seven princess-cut sapphires as well as a row of seven smaller princess-cut sapphires on the clasp itself, amounting to 2.22 carats.
On the underside of the padlock, Van Cleef & Arpels is engraved under the crown which like the watch itself, is discreet. This allows the wearer to easily change or set the time on the Swiss quartz movement waiting to be glanced at. Overall, the piece measures 26mm x 14mm in length and diameter making this piece perfectly sized for those who want a statement piece that isn’t too overbearing on the wrist.
Initial Thoughts
Having seen this piece in person at Watches & Wonders 2025, I’ll say it is an impressive piece of jewellery and art. You can see where Van Cleef & Arpels draw inspiration from looking back through their vintage pieces as well as the original Cadenas watches from the 1930s and 1940s. The snake chain is silky smooth to the touch, and I can imagine these being a sought-after and fashionable piece back when they were introduced in 1935. Even today, these look stunning and would not look out of place on A-list celebrities walking down the red carpet. However, while Van Cleef & Arpels has pieces that are less blingy, this Cadenas watch in particular is for those who are not phased about spending big, with a price tag of A$316,000 dollars.
Reference: VCARPEU600
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 26mm x 14m
- Case Material: 18k Yellow Gold case and bezel. Case, clasp and dial set with 1491 snow-set diamonds and 14 blue sapphires totalling 9.87 carats
- Dial: 18k white gold and rhodium plated dial with round-cut snow-set diamonds
- Movement: Swiss Quartz
- Water Resistance: 30m
- Bracelet: 18k yellow gold snake bracelet with diamond and sapphire sat clasp
