Mario Canonizado 
Which would you prefer: The scratch resistance and lightness of ceramic, or the toughness and boldness of titanium? With these new releases, Parmigiani Fleurier says, “Why not both?”
With the rapid modernisation of technology, it’s no surprise that innovation within the watch industry is accelerating just as quickly. I’m constantly blown away by the sheer creativity of the men and women behind these anachronistic mechanical marvels. Time and time again, they push the envelope in ways that the founding figures of watchmaking could never have imagined. If the legends of horology — icons like Abraham-Louis Breguet, Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, or Edouard Heuer — could witness the kinds of timepieces we’re capable of producing today, their minds would be absolutely blown.
Still, this supposed renaissance era of horological innovation doesn’t come without its costs. As the watch industry becomes more accessible than ever — and the time and expense required to produce a watch continue to decrease—the bar for innovation keeps rising. Many within the community fear the day the watch world might eventually run out of fresh ideas, with the creative air seemingly getting thinner by the minute.
While these fears are understandable, the true masters of horology remain undeterred in their quest to keep this beautiful art and science alive. Among them is Parmigiani Fleurier, a brand whose reputation for understated excellence has carved out a unique space in the industry. Since its founding in 1996, Parmigiani has focused on crafting timepieces that may not turn heads at first glance — but pack enough horological substance to make even the ‘Big Three’ take notice. Across the broader watch world and haute horlogerie alike, Parmigiani Fleurier quietly dominates without the need for flashy or self-important marketing.
Some may argue that the brand’s success stems purely from its backing by the Sandoz Family Foundation, itself linked to Swiss pharmaceutical giant Novartis. But that couldn’t be further from the truth. Michel Parmigiani, the eponymous founder, is a seasoned watchmaker and architecture enthusiast, with over two decades of experience before founding the brand. For those familiar with watch history, this is no small feat — Michel spent much of his early career fighting to preserve mechanical watchmaking during the height of the Quartz Crisis, relying solely on his passion and expertise.
It’s this drive and passion for mechanical micro-engineering that permeates everyone working within the Parmigiani Fleurier manufacture, and it shines through in their latest Watches and Wonders novelty: the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet. Aside from potentially having the most concise name in the history of watchmaking — tongue firmly in cheek — the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet represents the very best of what the Fleurier-based brand is capable of.
Measuring 42.5mm in diameter and 13.3mm thick, this new pair of timepieces feature many of the hallmark design traits we’ve come to associate with Parmigiani: a knurled bezel, colour-matching textured rubber straps, and an aesthetic that walks the fine line between elegance and contemporary sportiness. While the overall design isn’t necessarily groundbreaking, it’s the case material that truly sets these new Tonda PF Sport models apart from the crowd.
The watch world has long been split on the ‘ultimate’ case material: ceramic or titanium. Some prefer the toughness and neo-futuristic character of titanium, while others champion the scratch-resistance and abstract finish of ceramic. Parmigiani Fleurier, however, has chosen to sidestep the debate entirely. Rather than pick one or the other, they’ve fused the strengths of both into what they’re calling Ultra-Cermet.
A portmanteau of ceramic and metal, Ultra-Cermet is a specially developed alloy combining ceramic and titanium, and designed to deliver the best of both materials. Through a rigorous three-year development and manufacturing process, this singular compound has been hardened to an impressive 1450HV (Hardness Vickers). The result? A material that’s as light and durable as titanium, yet as scratch-resistant as ceramic.
Ultra-Cermet also brings a distinct aesthetic to the table. Its dark grey-black colour and icy-cool touch give the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph a look and feel that’s unlike anything else currently on the market. With both timepieces completely encased in this unique case material, it’s understandable to find yourself distracted from the two unique colourways — London Grey and Milano Blue — that provide a healthy amount of contrast from the mysterious dark sheen of the Ultra-Cermet.
Of course, with a brand as refined as Parmigiani Fleurier, it would be remiss not to acknowledge the exceptional mechanical craftsmanship that complements its horological innovation. The new pair of Tonda PF Sport Chronograph timepieces are outfitted with the PF070 movement, which powers the chronograph complication with a respectable 65-hour power reserve. But this is Parmigiani Fleurier we’re talking about — and such groundbreaking use of materials deserves an equally cutting-edge movement!
Unlike the luxury standard beat rate of 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), the PF070 operates at an impressive 5Hz (36,000VpH). In layman’s terms, this means the watch ticks ten times per second instead of the usual eight, allowing its chronograph to measure time down to one-tenth of a second. While this alone is a remarkable technical feat, Parmigiani Fleurier goes a step further by ensuring the movement is COSC Chronometer Certified. This means that even outside the chronograph function, the watch maintains an exceptional daily accuracy of -4/+6 seconds — underscoring not just innovation in materials, but an unwavering commitment to mechanical excellence.
My Thoughts
As a watch enthusiast ventures further down the haute horlogerie rabbit hole, it’s easy to get distracted by the glitz and glamour of watchmaking’s most exceptional mechanical achievements. It’s like walking along the Vegas Strip for the first time — you’re blinded by the lights, with brands left, right, and centre constantly vying for your attention.
Though many — if not all — of these haute horlogerie brands are worthy of your time and admiration, the constant grandstanding can become overwhelming. This is where Parmigiani Fleurier has always stood apart from its contemporaries: they’ve never been a brand to show off, yet they’ve always shown out — as clearly demonstrated by these new Tonda PF Sport models. Without the need for outrageous marketing stunts, bombastic launches, or hype trains, Parmigiani continues to outperform its peers through contemporary design, groundbreaking materials, and mind-blowing mechanical know-how.
If this article is the last you hear of Parmigiani Fleurier, it’s probably not because they’ve disappeared—but because they’re moving so quietly, you didn’t even notice them coming.
References: PFC931-1020021-400182 (London Grey)/ PFC931-1020022-400182 (Milano Blue)
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 42.5mm case diameter x 13.3mm thickness
- Case Material: Ultra-Cermet
- Dial: ‘Blackor’ nickel with London Grey/Milano Blue accents
- Movement: Automatic Cal. PF070 with COSC Chronometer certification and high-beat chronograph complication
- Power Reserve: 65h
- Water Resistance: 100m (100bar)
- Strap: Colour-matched textured rubber strap with Ultra-Cermet pin buckle
