Mario Canonizado 
As has been the case for the last few Watches and Wonders, Tudor has made major updates to their catalogue. The Black Bay 58, is one of them, receiving some of its most-requested updates in this new release!
When it comes to the modern watch world, it can be hard for any brand to maintain its footing. Sure, a combination of technical expertise and storied heritage definitely helps, but no matter what you release, there will always be comparisons to the standard-bearers of the industry.
Ever since its debut at Baselworld in 2018, the Tudor Black Bay 58 has become one of those very benchmarks. A dominant, versatile timepiece in the positively bloated dive watch space, the Black Bay 58 is a modern classic that pays tribute to the original reference 7924 Tudor Submariner. I’ll admit, though — even as a Tudor lover (and customer), I actually knew surprisingly little about the Black Bay 58’s origins! Thankfully, the team here at Watch Advice has gone hands-on with different iterations of the 58 over the years — most notably the blue version and the model crafted from 925 silver. Between those articles and Sam’s incredibly in-depth research into the watch itself, I had more than enough to sink my teeth into before tackling this new release.
Related Reading: How Rolex’s Submariner Influenced the Design Of Tudor’s Modern Day Black Bay 58
With such an iconic horological reputation, you’d expect the Tudor Black Bay 58 to stand alone as the be-all, end-all of the entire catalogue. And to a certain degree, that’s true. But Tudor has never been one to rest on its laurels. Over the years, the brand has expanded the Black Bay line significantly, with numerous variations and entirely new collections that have helped it carve out a legacy beyond the shadow of its more famous sibling, Rolex.
That said, as exciting as additions like last year’s Black Bay 58 GMT have been, it started to feel like the original—the watch that reignited the brand’s modern renaissance — was being quietly left behind. Sure, the original BB58 models remained aesthetically strong and technically competent, but fans began to wonder if Tudor would ever revisit and refine the base model to address its minor imperfections. As new models continued to roll out, the silence around the OG BB58 felt almost final. Tudor, it seemed, had moved on — ready to reshape its brand identity and leave the original 58 behind.
Thankfully, at Watches and Wonders 2025, the prayers of many a Black Bay 58 enthusiast have finally been answered. This year, Tudor has released a brand-new version of the base Black Bay 58 — introducing a fresh colourway and several technical refinements. Still housed in stainless steel, the new Black Bay 58 Burgundy retains the familiar 39mm case diameter but now features a redesigned, slimmer profile.
While the reduction from 11.9mm to 11.7mm in thickness might seem marginal on paper, in the world of watchmaking, even a few microns can make a world of difference on the wrist. After dashing to my nearest Tudor boutique to see it in the metal, I can happily report: it wears just as well —if not better — than the original.
Though the difference in case profile is relatively subtle, the addition of the T-Fit micro-adjustment clasp has taken the bracelet’s wearability to a whole new level. Yes, you heard that right — Tudor has finally given the Black Bay 58 the T-Fit micro-adjustment! It’s been a long time coming, and it absolutely delivers. That said, there’s one small caveat: for those with the original Black Bay 58, you’re still out of luck (for now). I’ve been informed that the new bracelets — whether in five-link, three-link, or black rubber — aren’t compatible with the original case design. However, with this new release and Tudor’s clear commitment to refining their icons, I wouldn’t give up hope just yet. Restitution could very well be on the horizon!
Of course, it wouldn’t be a new release without a fresh aesthetic—and the Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy is certainly living up to its name. A rich, dark red hue, complete with sunray-brushing, now adorns both the dial and the aluminium bezel insert of this timepiece. Yes, it’s still aluminium — but remember, the Black Bay 58 has always been a tribute to vintage dive watches, rather than a fully-fledged professional tool. If you’re after that kind of performance, the Pelagos Ultra might be more your speed! Having seen the red in person, I can confidently say it’s a real eye-catcher. Personally, I think it leans more toward a cherry or Santa Claus-esque red than a true burgundy, but to each their own. One thing’s for certain, though: the colour is absolutely spectacular to look at.
The mechanical engineering behind the Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy is no slouch, either, as it debuts a brand-new movement iteration within the Tudor lineup. The MT5400-U, beating at the luxury-standard 4Hz (28,800 VpH) with a 65-hour power reserve, is an automatic calibre derived from the original MT5400 found in 2023’s Black Bay 54. Unlike the Black Bay 54, however, the MT5400-U — like other Tudor movements bearing the “-U” designation — has been both COSC Chronometer and METAS Master Chronometer certified. This means the Black Bay 58 is not only accurate to within an impressive 0/+2 seconds per day but also repositions itself within evolved modern space, once again taking its place as a standard-bearer of the modern-day watch world.
My Thoughts
As I mentioned, the Tudor Black Bay 58 is one of the most significant watch releases of the modern era. Forever embedded in the watch lover’s Rolodex (no word association pun intended), the comeback of the Ref. 794 has become the catalyst for Tudor’s current successes. However, for a few years, it almost seemed like Tudor had forgotten about the watch that made them so big in the first place. That is, until Watches and Wonders 2025.
At a surface level, this release may seem like just a few much-needed adjustments to the Black Bay 58 lineup. While I don’t like the idea of watch brands starving fans of necessary updates to their timepieces, I’m glad that Tudor has finally proven they are indeed listening to the community. While there’s still a long way to go until the full reimagining of the Black Bay 58 is realised, I’m happy to see it return to its throne as a fully-realised modern timepiece. I look forward to whatever Tudor has in store for the Black Bay 58 next, as I’m sure that it will only make the Black Bay line even better than ever!
References: M7939A1A0RU-0001 (Five-Link)/-0002 (Three-Link)/-0003 (Black Rubber)
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 39mm case diameter x 11.7mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Dial: Red
- Movement: Automatic Cal. MT5400-U with COSC Chronometer/METAS Master Chronometer certifications
- Power Reserve: 65h
- Water Resistance: 200m (20bar)
- Strap: Steel five/three-link bracelet or black rubber strap with steel T-Fit micro-adjustable clasp
