Mario Canonizado 
Though Hermès has stunned throughout Watches and Wonders 2025, who says that they can’t have a bit of fun too? With the Arceau Rocabar de Rire, that’s exactly what they plan to do!
If you know me, you’ll know I love both serious and not-so-serious watchmaking equally. What I mean is, I have a real appreciation for designs that are not only excellent from an engineering standpoint, but also hilariously unconventional in appearance. But let’s be clear — unconventional doesn’t mean convoluted. Unlike some brands that pile on mechanical gimmicks just for the sake of it, the ones I admire know exactly where to draw the line. The design and mechanics are wild enough to spark a conversation, but never so over-the-top that they come off as overwhelmingly pretentious.
While fashion giant Hermès is often dismissed as the latter, those criticisms usually come from people whose vitriol doesn’t really lead anywhere. Sure, this is a brand that famously charges AU$275 for a fork — but that kind of pricing only comes after centuries of carefully cultivated prestige. Hermès didn’t just stumble into luxury; they built it brick by brick, which is why at the time of writing they have passed LVMH as the richest luxury brand in the world.
Expensive forks notwithstanding, a sizeable portion of Hermès’ success can be credited to their surprisingly deep and high-achieving watch division. Since 1978, the French leather powerhouse has been quietly but confidently positioning itself as a force in the horological world. Releases like the Cape Cod, Slim d’Hermès, H08, and Cut collections have earned the respect of even the most up-nosed industry snobs. But it’s through the Arceau collection that Hermès, at Watches and Wonders 2025, has truly merged its serious watchmaking chops with that delightfully non-serious spirit that makes this whole industry so fun to behold.
At 41mm in diameter, Hermès has officially debuted the Arceau Rocabar de Rire, limited to just 12 pieces. If it wasn’t obvious already, this is by no means a serious watch—at least on the surface. Beneath the slim hands of the Arceau lies the iconic Rocabar de Rire illustration, hand-painted by Hermès’ own artisans, depicting a cheeky horse set against a multicoloured backdrop. For the fashion-savvy readers of Watch Advice, this design stems from the original Rocabar de Rire silk scarf, created in collaboration with Ukranian-French freelance designer Dimitri Rybaltchenko, known for his whimsical surrealist style. Depicted in the original scarf’s anthracite, rouge (red), and paille (straw) colour palette, and textured with a weave made from horse hair, the Arceau Rocabar de Rire is a playful nod to the heritage and artistry of Hermès.
Despite its fun-forward design, this is by no means a poorly crafted timepiece. The Arceau collection has been part of Hermès’ catalogue since the beginning, elegantly designed by Henri d’Origny to translate the brand’s spirit into the world of watchmaking. Asymmetrical wire lugs hold the blue alligator strap in place — no doubt refined to the highest degree, given Hermès’ leatherworking pedigree — and the case itself is rendered in 18k white gold. While the dial is sure to catch plenty of attention on its own, the precious metal case gives the Arceau Rocabar de Rire the wrist presence and “oomph” factor you’d expect from a top-tier luxury watch.
That same sense of seriousness carries through to the movement inside: the in-house H1837 automatic calibre. Beating at 4Hz (28,800VpH) with a 50-hour power reserve, it’s as reliable as they come on paper. But for the Rocabar de Rire, Hermès has given it a whimsical twist. At the nine o’clock position sits a pusher that activates the brand’s playful “on-demand impulse” complication — essentially a miniature automaton that, when pressed, makes the cheeky horse’s tongue stick out and retract repeatedly.
It’s a hilarious addition to an already smile-inducing watch — one that, despite its whimsy, has been meticulously engineered and finished to the highest standards. Hermès often enlists the help of Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier to produce their timepieces, with the brand owning a 25% stake in the manufacture. Vaucher’s reputation in the industry is stellar, having supplied movements to the likes of Richard Mille, Audemars Piguet, Parmigiani Fleurier, and even TAG Heuer’s haute horlogerie division. With a manufacturing monster like that at their beck and call, it’s no wonder Hermès has carved out such a strong position in the watch world — managing to do so while still having a bit of fun along the way.
My Thoughts
As a fan — and proud owner — of Hermès products, their contributions to the watch world have always fascinated me. Still, there are many who bemoan their presence in horology, arguing that fashion brands and other “non-watch” players should stay in their lane.
But what if Ferruccio Lamborghini had stuck to making tractors? Or if Brian May had chosen to become a full-time astrophysicist? Or, perhaps, if Thierry Hermès had never moved beyond saddlery? None of them would’ve reached their full potential. Thankfully, that’s not the case: Ferruccio built supercars, Brian became the legendary guitarist of Queen, and Hermès expanded into the broader luxury world.
While the release of the Arceau Rocabar de Rire is more a proof of concept and whimsical novelty, it’s also a clear reminder: Hermès is no longer to be underestimated in the watch industry. Alongside their other mechanical marvel, Le Temps Suspendu, they’ve sent a bold message to the horological world — move, or be moved.
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 41mm case diameter
- Case Material: 18k white gold
- Dial: Anthracite/rouge (red)/paille (straw) with brass base, engraved/painted horse head
- Movement: Automatic H1837 with ‘on-demand impulse’ automaton complication
- Power Reserve: 50h
- Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
- Strap: ‘Bleu Abysse’ alligator leather strap with 18k white gold pin buckle
