Sameera Gamage 
The Excalibur Grande Complication pushes boundaries with a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and a minute repeater that chimes the “devil’s chord.” It’s bold, unapologetic, and precisely what you’d expect from Roger Dubuis.
The year 2025 is a significant one for Roger Dubuis as it celebrates its 30th anniversary. The brand was founded in 1995 by watchmaker Roger Dubuis and designer Carlos Dias, and they quickly made a name for themselves by daring to break out from conventional watchmaking. If you are new to watches, Roger Dubuis operates outside the realm of traditional watch designs, dancing with creations that are bold, large and certainly catching everyone’s attention.
From the beginning, Roger Dubuis combined unique designs with highly technical movements, earning early acclaim for its in-house calibres and commitment to the Poinçon de Genève, a seal of quality held by only a select few. Over the last three decades, Roger Dubuis has become synonymous with hyper-horology, where they have created some of the most outrageous and downright incredible timepeices that have certainly left their mark in watchmaking history. Whether through the Excalibur collection’s sharp angles and skeletonised movements or their experimental use of materials like carbon, sapphire, and ceramic, the brand continues to fuse avant-garde design with mechanical excellence.
With 2025 being the 30th anniversary of the brand, Roger Dubuis has unveiled timepeices during Watches & Wonders 2025 to celebrate this momentous occasion. One such piece that highlights the history and future of Roger Dubuis is the Excalibur Grande Complication. This timepiece was created in dedication to Mr. Roger Dubuis himself, who dreamed of creating watches that could not be found anywhere else. Alongside the bold and extravagant aesthetics, the timepiece comes with a perpetual calendar, minute repeater and tourbillon complications.
Case Design
Roger Dubuis is presenting the Excalibur Grande Complication in the brand’s signature Excalibur case design, now in beautiful pink gold material. One of the standout features of this case design is the notched bezel which in this case has a polished finish that shines attractively under light. The case also features another signature design of the Excalibur range, which is the three lugs. The lugs come with a vertical satin-brushed finish that contrasts subtly against the polished finishing of the case.
What sets this case design apart is the intricate mix of finishes, from bevels, chamfers, and notched edges, which gives the case real depth and personality. These details create a strong visual identity, perfect for those who gravitate toward bolder, more defined aesthetics. Even the crown guards follow suit, echoing the sharp, refined lines that run through the entire case.
Dial Design
The standout element of this openworked dial is the biretrograde complication. This is the complication that started Roger Dubuis’s journey into hyper-horology. The idea of a retrograde complication was revolutionised in 1989 when Mr. Roger Dubuis himself co-patented his winning retrograde mechanism. This complication is offset at a slight angle, which gives the dial a unique look.
At the 6 o’clock position is the flying tourbillon complication, which also doubles as a constant seconds counter. This flying tourbillon mechanism aesthetically fits this timepiece well, thanks to the open-worked dial showcasing the movement’s mechanical complexity.
The main feature of the dial is the perpetual calendar, presented through the biretrograde counters. At 3 o’clock, a retrograde display shows the date, while the day of the week is indicated on a matching counter at 9 o’clock. The month is displayed via a separate subdial positioned just below the 12 o’clock marker, accompanied by a rose gold leap-year indicator nestled elegantly between the date and month displays. Each calendar function sits against a black brushed backdrop with rose-gold lettering that enhances legibility while perfectly complementing the warm tones of the dial and case.
The timepiece’s minute repeater can also be activated through the slider on the case at the 9 o’clock position. Roger Dubuis says in regards to the minute repeater that “the Minute Repeater chimes the controversial “devil’s chord””, a haunting harmony which challenges the traditional sounds of minute repeaters in haute horology.
Movement
The beating heart of this Excalibure Grande Complication is the brand’s in-house RD118 automatic movement. The movement is made up of 684 highly finished components that form the three high complications of the timepiece: perpetual calendar, minute repeater and the flying tourbillon.
The movement operates at a steady 3Hz (21,600 VpH) while giving out a power reserve of 60 hours. Roger Dubuis states that the movement has 21 distinct hand-applied finishes, and as a result of this the dial and caseback feature the Poinçon de Genève hallmark, a testament to Roger Dubuis’s high level of craftsmanship.
From the caseback, we can also see Roger Dubuis’s signature double winding-rotors, an intentional design choice that enhances both functionality and aesthetics. This configuration supports the watch’s impressive 60-hour power reserve, ensuring consistent performance for its complex mechanisms, including the minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and flying tourbillon.
Initial Thoughts
The Excalibur Grande Complication is a perfect tribute to Roger Dubuis’s 30-year legacy. It brings together everything the brand is known for: bold design, cutting-edge mechanics, and a flair for doing things differently. From the minute repeater’s devil’s chord to the biretrograde perpetual calendar, this timepiece is a reminder that Roger Dubuis will always push the boundaries of what’s possible in watchmaking.
Specification: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication (DBEX1174)
- Dimensions: 45mm case in 18k pink gold
- Dial: Double surface flange, ridged black top and white polished slope, with transferred minute track, polished and gold-plated hour markets with white SLN in the center. Calendar display, retrograde and disc, satin-brushed, black, polished rhodium-plated outline, gold-plated indications and red dots.
- Movement: In-house automatic Calibre RD118
- Movement Power reserve: Approx. 60 hours
- Water resistance: 100m (10 Bar)
- Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
- Case back: See-through case back showing Calibre RD118
- Bracelet/Strap: Pink gold 750/1000, triple folding buckle interchangeable with Quick Release System – QRS
