Sameera Gamage 
A tribute to Roger Dubuis’s very first watch, reimagined through refined design and expressive mechanics. The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar brings together heritage, innovation, and bold aesthetics in perfect harmony.
Roger Dubuis is one brand you would think of for watchmakers creating bold, expressive timepieces with technical finesse. Behind the Maison’s contemporary flair, however, resides a rich tapestry of mechanical innovation. One of the most defining elements of this legacy is Roger Dubuis retrograde display, a semi-circular scale where the hand snaps back to its starting point at the end of each cycle.
This idea was first revolutionised in 1989 when Mr. Roger Dubuis himself co-patented his won retrograde mechanism. This very innovation laid the groundwork for the Maison’s first-ever biretrograde timepiece in 1995. It’s said that Roger Dubuis tried to one-up the manufacturing houses like Patek Philippe at the time, who hadn’t integrated a biretrograde complication on their timepiece before. Over three decades later, the spirit of that debut lives on in a new timepiece that honours both history and haute horlogerie: the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar.
This latest release unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2025 revives what the Maison calls “ecliptic counters” a poetic nod to their elliptical form and its functional role in tracking the date and month through the beloved biretrograde format. The watch brings together signature design cues from Roger Dubuis’ archives, like the use of pink gold and mother-of-pearl, while embracing a cleaner, more contemporary look. This latest timepiece is more than just a visual throwback; it’s a celebration of expressive mechanics that has been reinterpreted for the modern collector.
Case Design
This latest Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar has been made entirely from 18k pink gold, from the 40mm case to the bezel, crown and the caseback. The bold silhouette of the case is balanced by refined details such as the sapphire crystal with it’s anti-reflective coating, ensuring clarity without distraction. The case features all the signature design details of the Excalibur models, such as the notched bezel and the three-lug design. The strap is made from premium calf leather, chosen in line with Roger Dubuis’ non-exotic materials policy. It’s built with volume to mirror the case’s curves and equipped with a quick-release system for seamless interchangeability.
Dial Design
The dial is where this timepiece truly comes alive, bringing together heritage and contemporary design in every layer. A silver-plated double-surface flange frames the dial, with ridged tops and opaline slopes adding subtle depth. On this flange, resting on the satin-brushed silver base, lays the pink gold-plated hour markers with white Super-LumiNova. The centre of the dial features elegant mother-of-pearl inserts at 12 and 6 o’clock. The pink gold-plated calendar display stands out with its bold symmetry, enhanced by black transferred text and the minimalistic dot indicators.
Movement
The movement inside this new Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is Roger Dubuis’s in-house automatic Calibre RD840, a new movement created to honour the Maison’s biretrograde tradition. Featuring a day-date complication, it has been meticulously decorated and hand-finished to meet the prestigious Poinçon de Genève standard. The oscillating weight is also a modern reinterpretation of the 1996 original, now joined by the meaningful quote “This is a watch of today, inspired but not restricted to the past, projected into a future that belongs to us”, reflecting the vision and values of the brand’s two founders.
Initial Thoughts
With this latest Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, Roger Dubuis goes back to its roots where it all began. The timepiece draws on past design inspiration to give a fresh contemporary approach to one of Roger Dubuis’ most iconic pieces. This timepiece, however, is more than just a nod to the brand’s past; it’s a full-circle moment that brings innovation, aesthetics, and meaning together in one cohesive design. For fans of the brand and collectors alike, this release is more than a calendar complication. It’s a mechanical tribute to the visionary spirit that started it all.
Specification: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar (RDDBEX1179)
- Dimensions: 40mm case in 18k pink gold
- Dial: Silver-plated double surface flange for hour indices, a silver-plated, satin-brushed dial, with pink gold outline and texts, mother-of-pearl inserts at 12 & 6 o’clock. Pink gold-plated satin-brushed calendar display with black transferred texts and black dots.
- Movement: In-house automatic Calibre RD840
- Movement Power reserve: Approx. 60 hours
- Water resistance: 100m (10 Bar)
- Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
- Case back: See-through case back showing Calibre RD840
- Bracelet/Strap: 3D brown calfskin leather with interchangeable pink gold triple-folding clasp
