Mario Canonizado 
Ever the modern disruptors, Ulysse Nardin has debuted their newest timepiece for Watches and Wonders 2025: A dive watch! However, this isn’t your ordinary, run-of-the-mill diver – in fact, it’s the lightest dive watch ever made!
Haute Horlogerie — the concept of high horology — is a tricky thing to define. You see the word thrown around a lot in the watch industry, and many people (myself included) are guilty of not properly explaining what the term actually means within a watchmaking context. What’s even trickier is figuring out what actually constitutes haute horlogerie, since the idea of exceptional watchmaking is inherently subjective.
From a design perspective, the line is fairly blurry. But technologically speaking, I find that there are two main schools of thought when it comes to haute horlogerie. The first is extreme maximalism: cramming as many complex mechanisms, intricate designs, and cutting-edge innovations as possible into a wrist-sized timekeeping device. The second is extreme minimalism: stripping everything back to only the bare essentials, while still showcasing a masterclass in mechanical micro-engineering.
While not historically known for being at the forefront of haute horlogerie, the advent of the Quartz Crisis saw Swiss brand Ulysse Nardin reinvent themselves. They transitioned from being precision manufacturers of marine chronometers into a powerhouse of high-end watchmaking. This transformation was spearheaded by the dynamic duo of Rolf Schnyder and Ludwig Oechslin, who carved a bold path through the traditionalist ideals of the watch industry. Their work led to groundbreaking creations like the Astrolabium Galileo Galilei and the Freak, which pushed the boundaries of horological design and engineering. These radical timepieces were representative of a new era for the brand, yet Ulysse Nardin never forgot the more modest, efficient designs that laid the foundation of their reputation.
Related Reading: The Legacy Of Iconic Watch Designs – Ulysse Nardin Freak
This duality is reflected in two of their core collections: the Marine, which represents the brand’s dressier side, and the Diver. Having been part of the Ulysse Nardin catalogue since the 1960s, the latter established a reputation for its effective and simplistic nature, becoming an enduring fixture in the brand’s roster. However, the time has come for a grand revision — even for one of the most pragmatic designs in Ulysse Nardin’s lineup. The Diver has now been handpicked to represent a fusion of the very best from both schools of haute horlogerie: minimalist restraint, with maximalist ingenuity.
Enter the Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR], a 200m water-resistant watch that bursts onto the scene by breaking the record for the lightest dive watch on Earth. Though its 44mm width and 14.76mm thickness might sound imposing on paper, don’t be fooled — the watch weighs a scarcely believable 52 grams in total, or just 46 grams without the elastic strap. It’s the kind of technological feat that almost shouldn’t exist, and yet, the mad scientists at Ulysse Nardin have made it happen. Their secret? An ingenious combination of three materials.
The first two are familiar to most watch enthusiasts: carbon fibre and titanium — both known for being exceptionally lightweight while maintaining rugged durability, a must for any serious dive watch. But it’s the third material that really sets the Diver [AIR] apart: a polymer known as PA6. Short for Polyamide 6 — and also known as Nylon 6 or Polycaprolactam — PA6 is a plastic polymer used as a construction material across nearly every major industry. It’s prized for its unique combination of toughness, wear resistance, and lightweight properties, and found in everything from textiles to automotive engine parts, and even in components for aircraft.
In the case of the Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR], the brand has taken things a step further. They’ve developed a version of PA6 by breaking down and recycling used fishing nets, then combining the result with carbon fibre to create NyloFoil — an extremely tough, purpose-built compound that’s ideal for the rugged needs of a dive watch. Continuing the sustainability theme, the titanium used in the middle case of the watch is made from 90% recycled material, while the carbon fibre bezel insert is reconstituted from decommissioned IMOCA racing yachts.
The dial isn’t much to look at — literally — because it simply doesn’t exist. In a move driven by both aesthetic choice and weight reduction, the Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] ditches a traditional dial entirely in favour of a fully skeletonised movement. But don’t mistake minimalism for meekness — between the bright lumed hands, prominent indexes, and bold carbon fibre bezel, it’s crystal clear that this is a serious dive watch through and through.
At the heart of the watch is the all-new UN-374 automatic movement, beating at 3Hz (21,600 VpH) with an impressive 90-hour power reserve. If you’re familiar with skeletonisation, then you already know it’s no easy feat. It’s not just about removing material for visual appeal; everything that’s stripped away must still maintain the movement’s structural integrity. That’s especially critical for a dive watch, where durability is non-negotiable.
Rather than rely on trial and error, Ulysse Nardin developed the UN-374 specifically for the Diver [AIR], tailoring it from the ground up. One of the standout technical touches is the integration of their proprietary DIAMonSIL escapement — crafted from synthetic diamond and recycled silicon, which first gained popularity in its implementation within the Freak line. It dramatically reduces friction and wear over time, ensuring peak performance without sacrificing any of the precision you’d expect from haute horlogerie.
My Thoughts
‘World’s ____est Watch’ has practically become a theme in the watch industry over the past few years — and honestly, it’s easy to see why. Every brand is on the hunt for that unique selling point, that elusive X factor that sets their timepieces apart from the crowd gathering outside their boutique doors. For most, that means leaning into the intangibles — the unprovable ‘vibes’ and aspirational attitudes they claim are embodied by wearing their watches. But some brands aren’t just talking the talk. They’re walking the walk, offering tangible, measurable proof of their innovation and commitment.
If I had a dollar for every time this happened at Watches and Wonders 2025, I’d have two dollars—it’s not much, but it’s pretty wild that it happened twice! First, Bulgari comes out swinging with the thinnest tourbillon watch ever made, and now Ulysse Nardin follows suit with the lightest dive watch ever created. It’s a great example of healthy horological competition. While these brands aren’t exactly vying for the same title, it’s still exciting to see tech-driven giants like Bulgari and Ulysse Nardin constantly trying to one-up each other. In essence, the Diver [AIR], much like the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, is an intricately designed and finely engineered rallying cry from the Swiss manufacturer. While they still have a long way to go before claiming the title of the lightest watch ever made — China’s Behrens 11G and Malaysia’s Ming LW.01 currently hold those titles — it’s the beginning of what promises to be a fascinating and competitive journey.
References: 3743-170-2A/0A
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 44mm case diameter x 14.76mm thickness
- Case Material: Carbon fiber, PA6/Nylon 6/Polycaprolactam, & titanium
- Dial: Skeletonised
- Movement: Automatic Calibre UN-374
- Power Reserve: 90h
- Water Resistance: 200m (20bar)
- Strap: Interchangeable white or orange elastic straps with hook-and-loop fasteners
