Mario Canonizado 
Taking charge without overstaying its welcome, the newest offering from Chopard’s L.U.C. line adds yet another understated powerhouse!
As I’ve said a couple of times before, ‘stealth wealth’ in fashion has historically been a difficult balance to strike. From simple yet outrageously expensive clothing items to attempts at replicating the aesthetics of a vintage, bygone era, no one can seem to agree on what it truly means. In the watch industry, however, plenty of brands have managed to nail that balance, creating intricate and gorgeous pieces while pulling back on maximalist design principles.
However, watches aren’t just an art form – they are also a science, and the challenge for watch brands in executing minimalism is understanding exactly which boundaries can be pushed. Go too far, and you land in a higher bracket of watchmaking that hardly qualifies as ‘stealth wealth’; pull back too much, and the timepiece is reduced to little more than a superfluous proof of concept.
For the engineers and craftsmen present at Chopard, however, this appears to be a non-issue. Operating as a family-owned business since 1860 – though under two different families within their lifespan – the independent brand has found a way to implement some of the very best horological technology into many of their timepieces without compromising their modest appearance. For a case in point, look no further than the Chopard L.U.C collection that debuted in 1996. Using the initials of Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the L.U.C line was introduced as both a way to pay tribute to the eponymous founder and express their in-house watchmaking capabilities. In fact, it was the release of the L.U.C. 1860 subsection of watches that introduced the world to Chopard’s first in-house watch movement.
This year, for Watches & Wonders 2025, Chopard has elected to continue this modern yet storied tradition. Melding innovative developments with the traditional craftsmanship that popularised the brand, they have released the fourth iteration of the L.U.C Quattro. With a case size of just 39mm, a 46.5mm lug-to-lug, and a 10.4mm thickness, the L.U.C Quattro Mark IV is perhaps as understated as it gets. However, it’s not without its extravagant touches, as the case has been constructed either from decadent 950 platinum or 18k ethical rose gold.
While you may be familiar with the luxurious platinum that pervades the first reference – unassuming in appearance, with incredible density and presence – you might be less familiar with Chopard’s use of what they call ethical rose gold. Ethical rose gold still possess the similar sheen and weight as typical rose gold, the appeal of the material lies not in its qualities but in its method of manufacturing. Chopard has always been one to champion sustainability in luxury goods, and believes that sustainable and ethical business practices can still be practiced at the highest level without compromising on quality. With that in mind, Chopard’s ethical gold initiative is fully integrated in all their manufacturing processes, ensuring that the gold used is ethically sourced, of the highest quality, and even reusable where possible.
The dials of both are made of brass, textured and coloured in different luxurious blue hues. They’re dressed up rather simplistically, featuring only one sub dial for both the date pointer and small seconds complications, and features Dauphine-style hands in accordance with the case material. The platinum comes in either a navy alligator and a brown calfskin strap, which are interchangeable to allow for different looks suited for a number of occasions.
“The L.U.C Quattro model demonstrating Chopard’s technical prowess is the fruit of several years dedicated to the pursuit of precision, innovation and creativity in the field of Haute Horlogerie”
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Chopard Co-President
However, the humble nature of the watch betrays the incredible engineering that lies within. The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV’s beating heart is a movement named the L.U.C. 96.24.L. Visible through the open case back, it beats at the luxury standard 4Hz (28,800VpH) and features manual winding as well as one of Chopard’s most significant talking points, the Poinçon de Genève, or ‘Geneva Seal.’ Denoting exceptional chronometric accuracy – and a plethora of other qualifications that I’m too overwhelmed by to list here – the Poinçon de Genève is by far one of the hardest awards to attain in the entire watchmaking industry. However, Chopard’s L.U.C. 96.24.L doesn’t just stop there, as it also implements the brand’s revolutionary Quattro technology, allowing for a scarcely believable nine days’ worth of power reserve! For a watch with a frame that small to be able to hold such a massive running time is practically unheard of in horology, yet Chopard has been able to do so ever since they introduced the tech back in 2000.
My Thoughts
Chopard has got to be one of the most underrated brands out there. Honestly, though, when I got into watches I didn’t rrally know much about Chopard. At least, nothing outside their partnership with Julia Roberts; I had just watched Pretty Woman at the time. Having seen a few of their pieces myself, both at home and in international boutiques, I genuinely have no clue as to why so few people talk about them in the mainstream! Knowing what I know now, if I had to pick a brand that, with the right push, could absolutely dominate the modern watchmaking space, I would pick Chopard without hesitation every single time.
The release of the L.U.C Quattro Mark IV at Watches & Wonders 2025 just further escalates their talents in the field. A combination of simplistic, yet effective design cues with incredible movement technology may be a tale as old as time, but Chopard has been accustomed to the tale since 1860. If anyone knows how to do it right – and even better than their peers – it’s got to be them.
References: 161954-9001(Platinum)/161954-5001 (Rose Gold)
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 39mm case diameter x 46.5mm lug-to-lug x 10.4mm thickness
- Case Material: 950 platinum/18k Ethical rose gold
- Dial: Textured brass, blue galvanic finish; Light blue (platinum), or dark blue (rose gold)
- Movement: Manual wind Chopard L.U.C 98.09-L with Chopard Quattro system, Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal), and date pointer, power reserve indicator complications
- Power Reserve: 216h (9 days)
- Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
- Strap: Interchangeable alligator (brown or blue) and calfskin (gray or brown) straps with platinum/rose gold buckle
