Mario Canonizado 
Yes, you heard that right! Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon breaks yet another world record, becoming the thinnest tourbillon watch in existence!
Watches and Wonders 2025 is, ostensibly, built for one purpose and one purpose only: to showcase the splendour of the art and science of watchmaking. All eyes are now focused on Geneva as the festivities kick off, with brands from around the world converging in the city to unveil some of their most remarkable novelties of the year. However, it’s not just watch enthusiasts and gear-heads who make up this grand event; the versatility of skill sets within the watch industry is nearly infinite. From master jewellers to architects and even leather artisans, the world’s largest watch fair serves as a testament to just how many crafts and disciplines can play a role in the horological world.
Perhaps very few brands understand this duality better than Bulgari. Born of Greek blood yet possessing an unmistakably Roman soul, the brand’s connection to two of history’s greatest civilisations informs its identity as both master jeweller and expert watchmaker. This fusion of artistry and technical prowess places Bulgari in a unique position within the industry – one that allows them to challenge conventional traditions and redefine the boundaries of watchmaking, creating timepieces that are not only distinctive but also groundbreaking.
If you’re familiar with Bulgari’s work, then you’ll know exactly what I mean when I say “groundbreaking.” Since 2014, the launch of Bulgari’s flagship timepiece – the Octo Finissimo – has set the stage for an era of relentless innovation, pushing boundaries that most other watch brands could only dream of. This winning formula alone was enough to redefine the aesthetic landscape of modern watchmaking, an achievement in itself. But Bulgari wasn’t content with just revolutionising design – it had its sights set on an even greater prize: creating the thinnest watch ever made.
“Each record has been a stepping stone. Setting a record isn’t just about crossing barriers – it’s about redefining what’s possible in mechanical watchmaking. With each challenge, we’ve had to rethink not only traditional techniques but also how watches are designed and developed.”
Jean Christophe-Babin, CEO of Bulgari
For nearly a decade, Bulgari has relentlessly pursued this goal. Leading up to Watches & Wonders 2025, the brand has shattered nine world records across multiple categories of ultra-thin watchmaking, including the world’s thinnest minute repeater, perpetual calendar, chronograph, and, on several occasions, the thinnest watch ever made. Yet, even at these dizzying heights of micro-engineering, competition in haute horlogerie remains fierce. Bulgari has admirably held its own against the likes of Richard Mille and Piaget, even reclaiming the title of the world’s thinnest watch from the former in April 2024. However, their victory was short-lived, as just four months later Russian horological madman Konstantin Chaykin would steal the crown. But if this year’s Watches & Wonders debut is anything to go by, Bulgari has no intention of backing down. In fact, with the release of the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the tides – and the ruthless precision of its engineering – may once again be turning in favour of the Romans.
Related Reading: Konstantin Chaykin’s ThinKing About Breaking a World Record!
With its brutalist geometry, architectural design, and ultra-thin profile, the Octo Finissimo already challenges conventional watch aesthetics – wearing more like the pauldron of a futuristic Roman legionary than a traditional timepiece. However, Bulgari’s latest achievement, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, pushes the concept of ultra-thin watchmaking to an entirely new level. Measuring 40mm in diameter, 46mm in length, and an astonishing 1.85mm in thickness, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon now holds the title of the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch, shaving off 0.15mm from Piaget’s previous record. The watch’s full-titanium case and bracelet further enhance its ethereal presence – so light and thin that wearing it may feel like wearing nothing at all. Yet, despite its almost impossibly sleek construction, the titanium frame provides remarkable durability – an absolute necessity for a watch thinner than a United States nickel.
What’s funny for me as a writer is that this part of the article would typically be dedicated to me talking about the dial. However, since the watch is so thin, merging the dial with the rest of the movement is a compromise that the Bulgari craftsmen have had to make to be able to break a world record. That doesn’t mean that they haven’t given it the time of day it deserves, however, as Bulgari have taken extra care to ensure that the dial/movement has been intricately finished in accordance with their demanding standards. For instance, the middle case structure has been made out of tungsten carbide to counteract any unintentional warping of the watch. Tungsten carbide, typically used on the exterior of watches such as a diving bezel, is an extremely tough material, so its use within the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon hints at the many considerations undertaken by the R&D team at the LVMH brand. For optimal legibility, the displaced hour on the front features hour and minute hands in a traditional setting. This is unlike its predecessors – the Octo Finissimo Ultra and Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC – which featured regulator-style displays with separate hour and minute dials.
“The idea was to create a watch that encapsulates all our expertise. It’s not just about having the finest design but achieving a precise execution that tells the story of the Octo Finissimo s eries, while respecting the integrity of its distinctive aesthetic codes. Every detail, from the indexes to the tourbillon skeleton, bears witness to our commitment to excellence.”
Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari Executive Director of Watch Design
Finally, turning the watch around displays the backside of the dial/movement, which is in fact the new BVF900 manual wind tourbillon. For as tiny as the movement is, it’s still able to meet several luxury standards, such as the 4Hz (28,800VpH) beat rate and 42-hour power reserve. As with the combining of the dial and skeletonised movement, the engineers under Bulgari’s employ had to get creative in its implementation. The movement is operated through two planar crowns – each subtly protruding from the case – positioned at 8 o’clock for winding and 3 o’clock for setting the time. Crafted from circular-grain finished stainless steel, these crowns mirror the aesthetic of the ratchet, which is similarly finished and adorned with even more ornate geometric decorations. Again, this just goes to show how, despite the insane limitations imposed upon the watch, the near-impossible can almost always be made possible in the watch world.
Related Reading: The Art of Complications – Tourbillons
My Thoughts
To be honest with you, I’m surprised that there are still records to break within the world’s thinnest watch category. I mean, between Richard Mille, Bulgari, Piaget and now Konstantin Chaykin, It almost seems inevitable that something’s got to give sooner rather than later. However, the watch industry didn’t survive this long by just rolling over and calling it a day – they hammered down and pushed the boundaries until they sat at the very top of the throne.
While the road is long and certainly fraught with difficulties for the Italian brand, I do believe that in the next year or so Bulgari will be making yet another set of headlines for breaking another world record. If this new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is anything to go by, it shows that the innovative spirit that has driven Bulgari to their limits for over a century has not yet faded. So, with the advent of their tenth world record on the grandest stage of them all, the trumpets are sounding for Bulgari to enter once more unto the breach, going to war against some of the greatest brands to ever do it – themselves included!
Reference: 104313
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 40mm case diameter x 46mm lug-to-lug x 1.85mm thickness
- Case Material: Sandblasted titanium
- Dial: Skeletonised tungsten carbide
- Movement: Manual wind BVF900 with ultra-thin tourbillon complication
- Power Reserve: 42 hours
- Strap: Ultra-thin titanium bracelet (1.5mm) with integrated folding buckle
