Mario Canonizado 
Just how do they keep doing it? Panerai’s newest Watches & Wonders novelty still maintains the bold Luminor silhouette, yet manages to make it surprisingly elegant!
In the modern watch world, versatility has become king. Customers, both new and seasoned, are increasingly drawn to the idea of owning a single watch that seamlessly suits countless occasions. Whether it’s a bold sports watch that pairs effortlessly with a suit, or a refined dress piece that looks equally sharp when dressed down, the decision to purchase a watch now involves more factors than ever before. The lines between watch archetypes have never been blurrier, and while design and engineering remain crucial, nothing beats a watch that does it all – and looks great doing it.
Panerai is one of many brands that walk that tightrope: merging bold, rugged design with elegant, formal complexity. However, their journey into the consumer market is relatively recent, as Panerai watches were exclusively made for military use until 1993. This relatively young presence in the commercial space has led some critics to dismiss the brand as a ‘one-trick pony,’ claiming it only produces variations of the same designs. While there is some truth to the notion – given that Panerai primarily focuses on two core models, the Luminor and Radiomir – writing them off as merely repeating past successes severely underestimates their craftsmanship and innovation. Founded in 1860 in Florence, Italy, Panerai possesses a deep heritage and a level of watchmaking expertise that many detractors overlook. Now, for Watches & Wonders 2025, Panerai has unveiled a new timepiece that serves as a direct response to these critiques – embodying everything that the brand’s sceptics may have been missing.
Enter the Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech™, Panerai’s newest elegant novelty that balances its hulking presence with its intelligent micro-engineering properties. At 44mm wide, 53.4mm long, and 15.4mm, there’s certainly no loss of wrist presence for those bold enough to wear it. The addition of Panerai’s signature Platinumtech™ case construction only further compounds its solid silhouette, adding a signature heft that can only be achieved through the use of platinum.
Unlike the standard 950 platinum, however, Panerai’s Platinumtech™ is in fact a much harder alloy of the regular material, offering 40% more resistance to scratches, scuffs and other deformations that may ensue with every day wear. While it’s certainly not going to see more diving days than its peers in the catalogue, the 50m water resistance is enough to allow the watch to take on everything the world can throw at it. Provided it stays on land, of course.
As with all Panerai Luminor models, the case is complemented by the brand’s signature lever-action crown protection device. Though the water resistance rating might slightly betray the crown guard’s original purpose – that being protecting the crown during diving – the Luminor’s key design feature has become as emblematic as the brand itself. Complementing the case and crown is a striking blue dial of translucent sapphire, providing depth and intrigue with a tinted view into the inner workings of the watch. The deep blue hue, similarly to the crown guard, pay homage to Panerai’s maritime heritage and evokes the vastness of the ocean.
Sitting atop the dial are Panerai’s signature sausage indexes, complete with a twelve and six o’clock set of Arabic numerals. As is standard with Panerai watches, the hour, minute, and small seconds hands have all been massively lumed, glowing brightly in the dark alongside the indexes and numerals. As this is a perpetual calendar, it can be difficult to simplify such a complex set of readings. Yet, Panerai has managed to do so, through the balancing of information across both sides of the movement. The flyer-style GMT’s second timezone maintains functionality through the AM/PM indicator at nine o’clock, and at three the relevant day and date are shown through cut-outs in the sapphire dial.
However, merging the simplicity of usage and groundbreaking innovation doesn’t come easy, and Panerai have massively flexed their horological muscles to ensure that their standards of legibility are met – even in the most perplexing of complications. The P.4100 is the culminations of these efforts, presenting some of the most incredible displays of engineering ever to have come out of the Panerai manufacture.
Related Reading: The Art of Complications – The Perpetual Calendar
Visible through the sapphire case back is the rose gold micro-rotor movement, which also sports the rest of the perpetual calendar elements: namely the month, year, and leap year indications. Beating at the luxury standard of 4Hz (28,800VpH) atop a 72-hour power reserve, the Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech™ stands as a perfect marriage of the elegance of a perpetual calendar with the pragmatic design principles of the Italian brand.
My Thoughts
We at Watch Advice hold a rather soft spot for Panerai. Matt, our Editor-in-Chief, proudly proclaims that Panerai cemented his love of watches. On the other hand, I delight in how Panerai wristwatches, in my opinion, represent the most anachronistic form of watchmaking design, remaining unchanged for 165 years. What we do have in common, though – besides our love for the brand – is the speechlessness we experienced during our respective solo visits to Florence. During both our times there, we stumbled upon the original Panerai boutique whilst soaking in the impressive architecture of the nearby Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore. The only difference is that he walked away with a watch that time, while I unfortunately had already spent too much money on lampredotto and wine.
Related Reading: Will 2025 Be A Big Year For The Watch Industry? We Give You Our Predictions
In any case, despite the anachronistic nature of the design, Panerai has yet to fail at impressing us with their novelties. Last year’s Watches & Wonders release rocked us like a hurricane with it innovative and contemporary approach, but this year it seems that Panerai has dialled it back ever-so-slightly with a more elegant rendition of the Luminor. I wouldn’t say subtle – given the weight of Platinumtech™ and the Luminor’s, well, ‘Luminor-ness,’ but the bold, brash appearance certainly betrays the horological artistry going on within. However, that’s only for the wearer to know: others can laugh if they want, but I’m certain that wearers of the Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech™ know they’re too awesome to care.
Reference: PAM01575
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 44mm case diameter x 53.4mm lug-to-lug x 15.4mm thickness
- Case Material: Panerai Platinumtech™
- Dial: Blue translucent sapphire
- Movement: Manual wind P.4100 with perpetual calendar (day, date, month, year, leap year), 12h flyer-style GMT, power reserve indicator, & zero-stop second complications
- Power Reserve: 72h
- Water Resistance: 50m (5bar)
- Strap: Dark blue patina alligator leather strap with 18k white gold pin buckle
