Mario Canonizado 
For the second year in a row, I tackle yet another incredibly complex release from the ‘Watchmaker’s Watchmaker!’ Care to join me?
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If we’re talking about watches as pure, unadulterated forms of artistic expression, there would be no doubt in my mind that Jaeger-LeCoultre sits on the horological throne. For nearly two centuries, the Swiss brand has earned its reputation as the ‘watchmaker’s watchmaker,’ producing timepieces of exceptional quality not only for itself but also for some of the most legendary brands in the industry. Even the revered ‘Big Three’ of horology – Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin – have, at one point or another, turned to the master craftsmen and engineers of JLC for their expertise. While bumping shoulders with some of the very best brands on the planet has certainly uplifted JLC in the watch world, they have also proven that the brand’s reputation doesn’t end at playing second fiddle, with collections like the Polaris and the Master Ultra Thin cementing a notoriety for independent, exceptional craftsmanship.
However, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso arguably holds the highest regard in the art of watchmaking. Originally designed for polo players in 1931, its signature flipping case served a practical purpose – protecting the dial during matches. As horology evolved, the Reverso’s solid case back became a canvas for personalisation, showcasing engravings, miniature paintings, and even a second watch face. In 2023, the Reverso saw one of its most significant transformations with the introduction of the Reverso Hybris Artistica. True to its Greek namesake meaning ‘excess’ or ‘pride,’ this collection embodied the full breadth of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expertise, blending the brand’s inventive spirit with the savoir-faire of the Métiers Rares™ atelier. Through guilloché, micro-painting, enamelling, and engraving, the Manufacture fused tradition with sophisticated complications, creating but 10 timepieces that exemplify the perfect harmony of design, mechanics, and craftsmanship.
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This year, with the world’s biggest watch fair officially underway, JLC has once again reimagined the Reverso Hybris Artistica in a brand-new interpretation. Measuring 31mm in diameter, 51.1mm lug-to-lug, and 13.63mm thick, the traditionally modest Reverso silhouette has been transformed into an imposing horological masterpiece. Both its design and wrist presence command attention, wearing significantly larger than typical Reverso models and housed in 18k white gold. While the 2023 Reverso Hybris Artistica was encased in 18k pink gold, the intricate artistry and mechanical complexity of this edition likely warrant the more understated elegance of white gold – without compromising the weight that gives the Hybris Artistica a signature heft. The watch strap’s buckle has been specifically engineered for the timepiece, featuring a 18k white gold folding clasp made up of 46 components and adjustable to 0.5mm for a perfect fit.
The dial of the Reverso Hybris Artistica is, as the name suggests, excessive in almost every way. Drawing inspiration from the Art Deco era in which the original Reverso was conceived, this masterpiece presents two distinct dials within its complex swivelling case. The first, known as the Recto, showcases Jaeger-LeCoultre’s decorative craftsmanship, featuring a deep blue lacquer that adorns the dial, surrounding bridges, and the frame of the spectacular gyrotourbillon. To create the Recto’s mesmerising design, artisans at the Métiers Rares™ atelier meticulously carved delicate geometric shapes into the 18k white gold case to accommodate the lacquer—an arduous process in itself. The result is a breathtaking white gold lattice that seamlessly translates Art Deco’s signature aesthetics into a contemporary expression of horological artistry.
On the opposite side, known as the Verso, Jaeger-LeCoultre showcases the ingenuity of its watchmakers. In stark contrast to the deep-blue lacquer of the Recto, the Verso is stripped back to its bare essentials. The movement has been laser-skeletonised and meticulously hand-bevelled, with blue lacquer subtly filling the dial ring and bridges, offering a refined contrast to the Recto’s rich aesthetic. Accentuated by blued screws, frosted German silver bridges, and a two-tone 24-hour indicator at the top right, the Verso side pays tribute to the masterful craftsmanship that defines Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legacy.
Of course, the title of “watchmaker’s watchmaker” is earned, and within the Reverso Hybris Artistica lies one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s proudest achievements: the Calibre 179. First introduced in the 2016 Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon collection, the movement has undergone very few functional changes since its debut, simply because it was so far ahead of its time that it now feels perfectly at home in the modern horological landscape. Composed of 385 tiny components – 123 of which are dedicated to the gyrotourbillon alone – the movement showcases the aforementioned complication at six o’clock, along with the ability to track two time zones on the Verso side via its 24-hour indicator.
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Beating at a luxurious 4Hz (28,800VpH) with a 40-hour power reserve, the Cal. 179’s gyrotourbillon is nothing short of horological wizardry. It’s as visually captivating as it is impeccably precise. The gyrotourbillon rotates on two axes at a blindingly fast pace atop a disc of blue lacquer applied to the watch’s cradle, creating the illusion that the mechanism is floating in space. Every 16 seconds, the inner case of the tourbillon completes a full 360-degree rotation, allowing the viewer to appreciate every facet of the movement, while the outer case continues its standard 60-second rotation. Despite the extreme levels of artistry, Jaeger-LeCoultre ensures that you can still tell the time on this thing. It is a watch, after all – albeit a ridiculously beautiful one!
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My Thoughts
Here at Watch advice, we’ve had plenty of time to get familiar with the works of the great Jaeger-LeCoultre. In 2024, the team – sans myself – were privileged enough to visit the hallowed halls of the Vallée de Joux manufacture. While I am still somewhat sour that clashing circumstances prevented me from tagging along, I think that Sam’s report on the visit helped allay my sadness and permitted me to soak in the intimate experience from back in Australia.
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Factory visit or not, I take pride in understanding even just a smidge of the intricate craftsmanship behind Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most complex timepieces, and the Reverso Hybris Artistica is no exception. A horological masterpiece of near-unfathomable sophistication, this timepiece is yet another testament to the brilliance of both the Parisian Métiers Rares™ atelier and the manufacture itself, representing the remarkable heights the Richemont brand continues to reach. With its new 18k white gold case, the latest Reverso Hybris Artistica marks a new chapter in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s story – one that will undoubtedly include even more extraordinary pieces like this one.
Reference: Q39434E1
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 31mm case diameter x 51.1mm lug-to-lug x 13.63mm thickness
- Case Material: 18k white gold
- Dial: Blue lacquer/skeletonised with blue lacquer accents
- Movement: Manual wind Cal. 179 with gyrotourbillon, 24-hour indicator, and flyer-style GMT complications
- Power Reserve: 40h
- Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
- Strap: Blue alligator with 18k white gold folding buckle
