Mario Canonizado 
Striking a perfect balance between timeless modernity and vintage style, the Richemont brand has unveiled a new set of Riviera chronographs for Watches and Wonders 2025!
A common misconception that we watch enthusiasts often have to clear up is what a watch truly means to us. While mainstream perceptions of horology tend to dismiss the hobby as nothing more than a display of material wealth, instances of such superficial enthusiasm are actually few and far between. A watch purchase – especially when it’s the first – can be an incredibly personal and intimate experience for the buyer. More often than not, the significance of the watch extends far beyond simply owning a ticking piece of metal.
For the Genevan brand Baume et Mercier (or Baume & Mercier, if you prefer), no truer words have guided their philosophy in the art and science of watchmaking. Though they do not clamour for the spotlight as much as their peers of similar heritage, the brand with the Phi emblem proudly stands as one of the oldest in existence. Since 1830, Baume et Mercier has taken pride in crafting timepieces for the confident individual – or perhaps for the individual on the verge of discovering their hidden confidence. Doing so – through designing and engineering watches purpose-built for lifelong companionship – is no easy feat, yet Baume et Mercier has masterfully done so for nearly two centuries.
Related Reading: An Introduction Into Baume & Mercier
One of the greatest testaments to Baume et Mercier’s enduring watchmaking excellence is the Riviera collection. Inspired by the elegance of the southern French coastline from which it takes its name, the Riviera seamlessly merges the versatility of a sports watch with the heritage and aesthetic long-established by the brand. Before you decry it as ‘just another integrated bracelet sports watch,’ it’s worth noting that the Riviera carries serious horological lineage: it predates every other iconic timepiece in the subgenre, save for the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Interestingly, the Riviera’s designer, Jean-Claude Gueit, is the father of Emmanuel Gueit, the man behind the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. This firmly establishes the Riviera as not just a pioneer of the integrated sports watch genre, but also as an enduring piece of the Gueit family legacy.
For both its timeless design elements and its prominence at the forefront of the integrated bracelet sports watch era, 2021 saw Baume et Mercier revive the Riviera collection from a long hibernation. This included a set of 43mm chronographs, which redefined the collection and introduced the Riviera collection into the modern horological landscape. Over the years, the brand made gradual refinements and additions to the lineup, as demonstrated by the Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time in 2023 and the Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770 in 2024. With the world’s biggest watch fair in full swing, however, it was time to introduce a new face to one of the original iterations of the modern Riviera, once again proving why Baume et Mercier rightfully holds its reputation in the contemporary watch world.
Watches & Wonders 2025 brings with it four all-new Riviera references: Two references with black or blue dials in the classic Riviera chronograph layout; and two references sporting dial layouts unique to the Baume et Mercier catalogue. A common denominator between all four pieces is the all-new case size, reducing the hulking 43mm silhouette of 2021’s Riviera chronograph down to a more manageable 40mm wide x 13.94mm thick. All the while, the Riviera chronograph’s design elements all translate flawlessly to the smaller frame, including the four exposed screws and dodecagonal bezel. While the black and blue references are certainly built to be any chronograph lover’s playground, it’s the two brand-new designs that truly catch the enthusiast’s eye.
The first version of the Riviera, with its 1950s-inspired style, has been adorned with black-and-white contrasting features indicative of ‘Panda’ chronograph designs of the time. The white dial with a wave-patterned décor is complemented by the stark black azurage finish of the chronograph registers. Besides the black registers, the only other disruption to the dial is a cut-out at 4:30 for the date window. Adorned with the signature Phi logo counterweight, the chronograph seconds hand runs across the watch with the chronograph function, framed by a black outer flange. A healthy amount of lume coats the Roman numeral indexes at 12 and 6 o’clock, in line with the rest of the hour markers and even the 9 o’clock second hand.
The second design – equipped with a vertically brushed golden dial – comes in a limited edition of 73 pieces, appropriate to the Riviera’s original release date. The Roman numerals and 4:30 date window persist across this reference, yet this golden tribute bears an aesthetic that deviates from the styling of the modern Riviera. Gone is the contrasting nature of the Panda rendition, instead replaced with concentric telemeter and tachymeter readings. While it is unlike any other Riviera chronograph that exists today, this piece serves as an effective tribute to the efficient, tool-like nature of the original, as well as the utility of the chronograph as a whole.
Related Reading: Chronographs (With TAG Heuer)
With all these design revisions, however, it’s important to realise that Baume et Mercier isn’t relying on mere smoke and mirrors. The majority of the Riviera Chronograph collection is powered by the ever-reliable ETA/Valjoux 7750 series of movements. With its 4Hz (28,800 VpH) beat rate and dependable power reserve, this calibre has long been a trusted workhorse in the watch enthusiast’s arsenal. On the other hand, the gold rendition of the Riviera Chronograph houses a modified version of this popular automatic movement, designated BM 13750. While structurally similar to the 7750, the BM 13750 boasts significantly enhanced finishing, featuring blued screws and a golden rotor. Moreover, this movement introduces a flyback complication alongside the chronograph, allowing the wearer to reset the timer dynamically without needing to stop it first. This added functionality not only elevates the technical prowess of the movement but also reinforces the utility-driven philosophy behind this limited-edition model.
My Thoughts
It’s almost upsetting that Baume et Mercier isn’t as widely discussed as other watch brands established around the same time. When you take stock of its history, only deeply storied companies like Vacheron Constantin and Blancpain can confidently claim to outrank Baume et Mercier in sheer experience. It feels almost sinful that a brand with so much ‘skin in the game,’ so to speak, isn’t receiving the recognition it truly deserves. Despite this, Baume et Mercier remains a steadfast staple in the watch industry.
In this modern era, longevity is more important than ever. We’re likely witnessing the largest wave of watch enthusiasts since the Quartz Crisis, and it’s crucial not only to attract these new collectors but to ensure they stay long enough to truly appreciate what horology is all about. With the release of the new Baume et Mercier Riviera Chronographs, the Richemont-owned brand boldly reasserts itself as a key player in this new golden age of watchmaking. And after nearly two centuries’ worth of opportunities to step aside, Baume et Mercier makes it clear—they aren’t going anywhere.
References & Specifications:
M0A10828 (Flyback)
M0A10827 (Panda)
- Dimensions: 41mm case diameter x 13.94mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Dial: Vertically brushed gold dial/White dial with black chronograph registers and wave motif
- Movement: Automatic Valjoux 7750 with flyback chronograph/chronograph and date complications
- Power Reserve: 42h/48h
- Water Resistance: 100m (10bar)
- Strap: Steel bracelet with butterfly clasp
Australian RRP: AU$14,400 (Flyback)/AU$6,300 (Panda)
M0A10825
M0A10826
- Dimensions: 41mm case diameter x 13.94mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Dial: Sunray-brushed black/blue dial with wave motif
- Movement: Automatic Valjoux 7750 with chronograph and day-date complications
- Power Reserve: 38h
- Water Resistance: 100m (10bar)
- Strap: Steel bracelet with butterfly clasp
