Sameera Gamage 
Zenith launches the G.F.J, a brand new timepiece with a new movement celebrating the prestigious Swiss watchmaker’s 160 years of watchmaking.
This year, Zenith celebrates its 160th anniversary, marking over a century and a half of pushing the boundaries of horology. The brand celebrates its rich heritage of innovation, precision, and groundbreaking watchmaking. When Georges Favre-Jacot first established the manufacture in 1865, his objective was clear: to ‘create the perfect watch’—the finest, most precise, and most reliable timepiece ever made.
While this is certainly no easy task by any means, this quest for perfection is what gave Zenith life, even referring to the very name of the brand “Zenith”, which refers to the highest point in the sky. One of Zenith’s greatest gifts to the world of horology from their pursuit of perfection is the well-known and iconic El Primero movement. Introduced in 1969, the El Primero was one of the most legendary chronograph movements, which even the likes of Rolex used a modified version of the movement in their Daytona from 1988 to 2000.
Zenith also had another movement, which, while it may not be a household name like the El Primero, was one of the most celebrated manual-winding chronometer movements in watchmaking history. The Calibre 135 was developed in the late 1940s, especially for chronometry competitions, where it dominated to winning over 230 awards, including five consecutive first-place prizes at the Neuchâtel Observatory trials from 1950 to 1954.
These “chronometry competitions” were created in the early years of watchmaking so that manufacturers would create movements that would push the limits of what was first thought possible, especially in regard to the high precision of the movements. Aware of the prestige they could acquire, brands submitted specifically prepared movements to these trials. ZENITH took part in trials as early as 1897, and over the years, its movements have won a record 2,333 chronometry prizes, more than any other brand.
The legendary Calibre 135 submitted by Zenith outshone all the prior movements. Zenith states that “Designed by Ephrem Jobin at the request of Charles Ziegler, Technical Director of ZENITH, this chronometer calibre was specifically developed to compete in chronometry competitions at the Observatories of Neuchâtel, Geneva, Kew Teddington, or Besançon. Its name is derived from its dimensions, 13 lines (or 30mm, the maximum size allowed in the wristwatch category competition at the Neuchatel Observatory trial) and 5mm in thickness.”
Zenith produced the Calibre 135 from 1949 to 1962 in two variations: a commercial Calibre 135 and the Calibre “135-O”, created exclusively for observatory chronometer trials. The calibre 135-O received 235 chronometry prizes, an incredible feat and record in all of watchmaking history. In 2022, Zenith revived the Calibre 135-O by collaborating with Kari Voutilainen and Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo. A total of ten vintage movements from the 1950-1954 period were restored and decorated to the highest degree by Kari Voutilainen, a master watchmaker.
Now, for the brand’s 160th-anniversary celebrations this year, they are bringing the legendary Calibre 135 back to the limelight with the release of the G.F.J (Georges Favre-Jacot) timepiece during Watches & Wonders 2025.
Case Design:
The design of the new G.F.J timepiece stays true to the era in which Calibre 135 was produced, capturing the design essence of the 1950s. The timepiece seamlessly integrates vintage styling with contemporary accents. The timepiece comes with a slender 39mm case made from platinum, with features like a stepped bezel and curved stepped lugs. The case has been meticulously crafted, from its sculptural lines to the various brushed and polished finishes, giving the watch a modern, elegant and luxurious look.
Dial Design:
The dial of the Zenith G.F.J features a stunning blue dial, a signature colour from the brand that, together with the star logo, symbolises the brand’s connection to the highest point in the sky and its relentless search for precision. The dial has a three-part construction, which gives it depth and a three-dimensional view.
The dial’s outer ring showcases a ‘brick’ guilloché pattern, adding a unique texture to the watch’s design. Set atop this intricate backdrop are bold white gold hour indices, standing out beautifully against the deep blue. A more subtle yet equally impressive detail is the minute track, composed of 40 individually hand-applied white gold beads, enhancing the watch’s artisanal craftsmanship. The central portion of the dial is made from deep blue Lapis Lazuli, a mesmerizing stone that immediately draws the eye with its rich, natural beauty. Completing the dial design is an oversized sub-dial at 6 o’clock, which features a blue mother-of-pearl surface, complementing the overall aesthetic. At the same time, the white gold hands offer a stark contrast against the blue, ensuring both elegance and legibility.”
Movement:
As previously mentioned, the legendary Calibre 135 is reborn in the latest Zenith G.F.J timepiece, carrying forward its legacy of precision and innovation. This hand-wound movement is equipped with a Breguet hairspring and a stop-second mechanism, ensuring exceptional chronometric performance. Operating at a frequency of 2.5Hz (18,000 VpH), it delivers a remarkable 72-hour power reserve when fully wound, reinforcing its status as a true chronometer-certified masterpiece.
Initial Thoughts
The new Zenith G.F.J equipped with the modern rendition of Calibre 135 is a tribute to the brand’s rich history of creating exceptional movements that surpass all expectations and redefining high-precision calibres. It is also a testament to Zenith’s relentless pursuit of precision and craftsmanship.
By reviving the legendary Calibre 135 and pairing it with a beautifully executed vintage-inspired design, Zenith has created a timepiece that seamlessly bridges the past and present. The exquisite attention to detail, from the intricate guilloché dial to the hand-applied elements, showcases the brand’s dedication to fine watchmaking.
For those who appreciate watchmaking history, craftsmanship, and mechanical artistry, this latest Zenith G.F.J is a masterpiece that truly lives up to its predecessor’s legacy. The Zenith G.F.J stands as a shining example of why Zenith remains at the pinnacle of Swiss watchmaking, where innovation and tradition meet in perfect harmony.
Reference: Zenith G.F.J (40.1865.0135/51.C200)
Specifications
- Case Size: 39.15mm, lug-to-lug: 45.75mm
- Case Thickness: 10.5mm
- Case Material: Platinum 950
- Dial: Blue bricks guilloché on the outer ring, lapis lazuli in the centre and mother-of-pearl small second counter
- Movement: Calibre 135 manual-wound
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Water Resistance: 50m (5 bar)
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment.
- Strap/Bracelet: Comes with 3 straps: Dark blue alligator leather strap with platinum pin buckle + black calfskin leather and blue “Saffiano” calfskin leather. Optional for purchase: Platinum bracelet with double folding clasp
