Sameera Gamage 
Vacheron Constantin hits the ground running at Watches & Wonders 2025, celebrating 270 years of watchmaking with the release of the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface in platinum, redefining elegance with its intricate skeletonized dial and stunning anniversary design.
One of Vacheron Constantin’s standout timepieces unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2025 is its new Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface. The brand has released a host of new timepieces this year, which you’ll see in our upcoming coverage, but starting it off is this heavy-hitter.
For those that may not know, Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle collection is as the brand puts it, “the supreme expression of the most demanding Geneva Haute Horlogerie traditions inherited from the 18th century.” In other words, the Traditionnelle collection is where Vacheron Constantin shows superiority in creating highly technical timepieces with expert craftsmanship that has been passed on from generation to generation.
Established in 1755, Vacheron Constantin is celebrating their 270th anniversary this year. We were always going to expect some big releases during the Watches & Wonders 2025 to celebrate this special occasion, and this is just one of them. A testament to this legacy is the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface, a timepiece that harmoniously blends classic horology with contemporary aesthetics.
Case Design:
Prior to the release of this new Traditonnelle Complete Calendar Openface, the model was already available in either a pink gold case or a white gold case. Both timepiece piece featured the same dial layout, however, the hour indices and hands were made to match the material of the case.
Now, for this latest version, Vacheron Constantin is introducing the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface in a 950 platinum case. This platinum version retains the same 41mm diameter and 11.05mm thickness as its predecessors, but the 950 platinum finish elevates the timepiece’s overall presence, giving it an irresistible, luxurious shine. The unique, reflective qualities of platinum offer a subtle yet undeniable difference in feel and appearance, with a luxurious and elegant appearance that enhances the watch’s timeless beauty and showcases Vacheron Constantin’s dedication to exceptional craftsmanship and material innovation.
Dial Design:
While the case hasn’t changed besides the material, the dial is where we see the main points of difference, especially the celebration “designs” for Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary. The most notable change is the dial colour. While majority of the dial is skeletonised to show the movement, the top portion of the dial is covered, which is what Vacheron Constantin has used to showcase their 270th-anniversary finely hand-guilloché decoration that you’ll find among their timepieces released during Watches & Wonders 2025.
This design/decoration incorporates the signature Vacheron Constantin Maltese Cross, which for this model is shown on the top left corner, partly cut out by the date of the week indicator. The design also includes lines at various angles, running horizontally and diagonally, which looks artistic until you start turning the watch at different angles to play with light. This is when this overall 270th-anniversary dial design comes to life, as when it plays with light at different angles, the different sections become “dull” to let the other section shine. To put it simply, the horizontal line section will shine and stand out, while the diagonal lines will become duller and vice versa as you rotate the timepiece at different lighting angles.
The rotating discs in which the day of the week and the month are indicated are transparent, just like the previous two models; however, this time, it’s done through white lettering. This is certainly a nice touch, as the movement underneath doesn’t feature the anthracite NAC treatment, which makes it darkened like the previous two models, meaning that black lettering on these discs will surely stand out, not only making the dial appear busier and more cluttered but also obstructing the view into the golden gears sitting underneath the discs.
Another point of difference on the dial is the moon-phase indicator. It still shows the two full moons on the disc, which is seen through the transparent cloud. What’s different for this model, however, is that Vacheron Constantin has included their signature Maltese Cross and the brand name across this transparent cloud. This logo and brand name were found underneath the 12 o’clock hour marker, but since Vacheron Constantin has used this space to showcase their beautiful 270th-anniversary design, it makes sense to move it into the only other available space on the dial in which an inscription can be made.
Movement:
Sitting inside the open-worked dial is Vacheron Constantin’s Calibre 2460 QCL/2. This movement powers the timepiece’s minutes, hours, and day-of-the-week at 9 o’clock, a precision moon phase at 6 o’clock, and the month indicator at 3 o’clock. It also has a date indicator, which is seen on the outer flange of the dial, indicated through a separate black hand. The movement operates at a high frequency of 4Hz (28,800 VpH) and has a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.
The movement’s finishing is exceptional and what we have come to expect from Vacheron Constantin. Each movement component is carefully finished, chamfered, polished or rounded off by hand to enhance the beauty of the calibres’ structure. The view from the open caseback reveals a 270th-anniversary emblem along with ‘côte unique’ finishing on the bridges, to which the brand states, “This traditional decoration, used by Vacheron Constantin more than a century ago, was rediscovered in 2021 while reproducing the Historiques American 1921 watch.”
How It Wears
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface in platinum offers a great wearing experience that matches its luxurious design. Despite its 41mm case size, the watch feels surprisingly comfortable on the wrist, thanks to the expertly finished contours of the platinum case, which feels smooth and refined against the skin. The slim profile at just 11.05mm thick, even with complete calendar complication movement, ensures the timepiece sits effortlessly under a shirt cuff, providing a sophisticated yet wearable presence.
When worn, the platinum case with its polished finish shines with a distinct, eye-catching luster, enhancing the overall elegance of the watch. One of the stand-out details of this new Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface is, as mentioned previously, the 270th-anniversary design on the dial plate at 12 o’clock. The skeletonized dial, with this intricate guilloché decoration, adds a layer of artistry, and while it’s visually stunning, it remains legible thanks to it being thoughtfully done around the date and moonphase indicators. With its subtle weight and impeccable balance, this timepiece is a true testament to Vacheron Constantin’s commitment to form and function, offering a refined, comfortable wear!
Final Thoughts:
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface in platinum celebrates the brand’s 270-year history and its ability to innovate while staying true to tradition. The subtle yet impactful design changes, particularly in the dial’s anniversary detailing, highlight the expert craftsmanship that defines Vacheron Constantin. Incorporating the Maltese Cross and playing with light reflection across the dial gives an intriguing visual experience. The luxurious shine of the watch is shown through the beautifully polished platinum case and the various polished finishes on the Calibre 2460 QCL/2 movement. Whether you’re drawn to the platinum case’s refined presence or the artistic execution of the anniversary dial, this watch is a testament to Vacheron Constantin’s enduring pursuit of excellence.
Reference: 4020T/000P-H038
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 41mm x 11.05mm thick.
- Case Material: 950 Platinum
- Dial: Openworked dial in 18K gold, hand-guilloché with a 270th-anniversary motif inspired by the Maltese cross
- Crystal: Scratch‑resistant sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective treatment on both sides
- Water resistance: 30m (3BAR)
- Movement: Calibre 24650 QCL/2
- Power reserve: 40 hours
- Strap: Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, with alligator leather lining, hand-stitched, large square scales.
