196

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time is a piece I’ve wanted to review for a while now, and finally, my wish has come true. So, how did it live up to expectations?

There’s something special about a watch that can seamlessly blend luxury with everyday practicality – and that’s exactly what Vacheron Constantin has achieved with the Overseas Dual Time. As part of the brand’s legendary Overseas collection, this piece is designed for those who appreciate fine watchmaking but also need something versatile enough to handle life on the move.

With its sporty-yet-sophisticated aesthetic, an in-house movement built for precision, and a clever dual-time function that makes tracking multiple time zones effortless, the Overseas Dual Time is a serious contender for the ultimate travel watch, which for a guy who has a Rolex GMT “Batgirl” as his normal go-to travel piece, this is saying something. But, first, a brief backstory on the Vacheron Constantin Overseas.

RELATED READING: A Deep Dive Into the Vacheron Constantin Overseas

What many people may not realise is that the Overseas isn’t all that old from a watch perspective. It was born in 1996, so just shy of 30 years ago. Its predecessor? The 222. The 222 was groundbreaking for Vacheron Constantin when it was released in 1977 and was the brand’s answer to the integrated sports watch trend of the 1970s. However, the 222 wasn’t in production all that long, just a mere eight years before being discontinued in 1985.

Fast forward to the mid-1990s and the world had changed dramatically since the 1970s. The quartz crisis had settled, and mechanical watchmaking was experiencing a renaissance, not to mention global travel was on the rise. With these factors, Vacheron Constantin saw an opportunity to create a watch that embodied this spirit of adventure, and in 1996, the Overseas was brought to life!

First Impressions

Now, it’s probably not an accurate heading to say first impressions. Normally when we review a piece, it’s a newly released piece and it’s the first time that I’m getting my hands on it physically for longer than a 5 minute preview. However, the Overseas is a watch I’ve played with many times, and in various model variants as well. From the standard steel three-hander to the rose gold Dual Time and Chronographs, to the Titanium Tourbillon and the Skeleton Perpetual Calendar. My exploration of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas has been extensive over the past few years, which is why it’s surprising that I’ve not reviewed one until now. But as they say, good things come to those who wait.

Saying this, I had paid more attention to the higher complication pieces and those in precious metals for no other reason than this is what was released by Vacheron over the last few years. While I like the blue dial, for me the silver dial gives this piece a different look, and one I quite like. It’s not too in your face and gives the Overseas Dual Time more of a traditional classic look, and paired with the black rubber strap, or leather for that matter, looks the best as you can get a washed-out effect when a watch has a silver dial, all on steel including the bezel. It is a piece that I can see both dressing up or down thanks to the design language Vacheron has used.

RELATED READING: Hands On With The Vacheron Constantin 222 Steel

The Design

As mentioned, the design of the Overseas comes from the original 222 from 1977. However, Vacheron Constantin has evolved the Overseas since then, now in its third generation which was released in 2016. So while the design language of the 222 and therefore the original Overseas from 1996 is still present, the watch has substantially changed to suit the evolving tastes of enthusiasts over that time. The case was originally upsized to 42mm in Generation II, but then slimmed down and made more ergonomic for Gen III, which is what we have today. The bezel is still essentially the same, taking its design inspiration from the Maltese Cross, polished and with its six points to give the face more balance. The bezel looks great, but the one gripe that I have with all polished bezels is that these are scratch magnets – just ask my Panerai! It is one reason I prefer the durability of a ceramic bezel as these are almost impossible to scratch, almost.

The dial itself looks fantastic in my opinion. I’m not normally one for a silver dial, but the way Vacheron Constantin has designed the Dual Time’s dial works well. The silver-toned-lacquered dial with sunburst satin-finished base looks great, especially in the daylight. This silver is offset by the white snailed date sub-dial at 6 o’clock as is the AM/PM indicator at 9 o’clock. These give the dial some contrast as well as something more to look at compared to the time-only models. The outer minute track on the rehaut is done in a velvet finish, so this adds another layer of contrast and depth to the dial. The second time zone hand has that nice pop of red in it, and brings some colour to an otherwise monochromatic-styled dial, as does the AMP/PM hand indicator. The hands and indices on the Overseas Dual Time are 18k white gold, so Vacheron has not spared anything here.

The case size has remained fairly unchanged since the Dual Time’s release in late 2017, stemming from the standard Overseas but slimmer than its chronograph counterpart. You have a case that is 41mm in diameter, a case thickness of 12mm and a lug-to-lug of 48.6mm, however with the end links on the bracelet, it does essentially make the width across the wrist 56.8mm. More on that soon.

As with all Vacheron Constantin Overseas models, the Dual Time does come with a (black in this instance) alligator leather strap, matching rubber strap and a steel bracelet. For the review, being summer and all, I chose to wear this on the rubber to see how this would both look and feel when on the wrist for an extended period of time. From a design perspective, Vacheron has done a good job with the look of the rubber strap. I’ve said many times how I feel about brands who put little effort into the design of their rubber straps, which is they can and should do better. This is even more the case with watches at a higher price point. I’m not sure who makes the decision and thinks it is a good idea to pair a basic-looking, flat with zero character rubber strap with a $20,000, $30,000, or $50,000 watch is beyond me. Thankfully, Vacheron Constantin is not one of those brands and has given the strap some character, but they haven’t gone overboard either.

How It Wears

There are several aspects here that I wanted to cover about how the Overseas Dual Time wears on the wrist. The first is the comfort and how it physically wears, and the second is how it wears in terms of style and looks. I’ll start with the comfort and sizing first.

As we’ve covered, the specs sheet says the Overseas Dual Time is 41mm in diameter, has a case thickness of 12mm and a lug-to-lug of 48.6mm. While the end links on the bracelet do flare out a little, making this wear maybe 1-2mm larger, on the rubber strap this increase in its appearance is somewhat negated. This means those with a smaller wrist can easily pull this piece off, as illustrated below in the comparison between my wrist and Champs’.

If we want to talk about the thickness and the way the watch sits on the wrist, it does look thicker if you were to just hold the watch in your hands. However, thanks to the design of the case, when on the wrist it is less so. Now what constitutes “too thick” is relatively subjective I feel that sometimes this comes down to personal style, but at a tad over 12mm, I feel this watch is in the sweet spot, especially as this is a Dual Time sports watch.

Style-wise, this is where I feel the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time shines. It is a piece that you can dress up or down, made even easier thanks to the inclusion of the two straps and the bracelet that the Dual Time comes with. But, let’s put aside the different straps for a second, and imagine that you had just one, such as the black rubber. It is a piece that seems to look the part as both a sports watch when in casual attire, and when you have a suit on, this elevates the watch so it doesn’t look out of place.

From a comfort perspective, once again what I find comfortable others may not, I feel the Overseas Dual Time mostly hits the mark for me. Now again, my wrist is 17.5cm and I have more oval wrists, so it means that it can accommodate a slightly larger, or larger looking, watch. This is both a positive and negative for me as some watches depending on their size and case shape don’t sit as well. A slightly wider and flatter case works for me and if the lugs are curved or tapered, then it’s a winner.

The Overseas Dual Time is just this, a mostly flat case back with short, angled lugs that taper with my wrist. The rubber strap helps with this aspect as well, being pretty solid and flexible enough, and the push button folding clasp means it wears nicely. My only small niggle with the rubber strap is the thickness. I feel it could be a touch thinner, and this would allow it to be just that little bit more flexible than it is. It isn’t super stiff, but could be softer, however, I understand that the end of the strap where it integrates into the case needs to be this to align the case and strap more seamlessly.

The Movement

At the heart of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time beats the in-house Caliber 5110 DT, a beautifully finished automatic movement that balances technical innovation with traditional craftsmanship. Would you expect anything else from Vacheron Constantin? Beating at 28,800 VpH / 4Hz and offering a 60-hour power reserve coming from two barrels, the 5110DT is designed to be accurate, tested in five positions and with high-efficiency ceramic bearings to top it off.

Speaking of finishing, you’re treated to a stunning view of the 22k gold rotor, decorated with a compass motif a subtle nod to the spirit of adventure that defines the Overseas collection. Remember, when the Overseas first appeared, the case back was closed and on this was the raised motif of the Amerigo Vespucci, the three-masted ship that was in Vacheron’s words “an open invitation to travel the seven seas.” So now on the open case back, I feel the compass is just as fitting to the heritage of the Overseas Dual Time.

The Geneva Seal proudly stamped on the movement ensures that every detail meets the highest standards of Swiss watchmaking, from the intricate beveling on the bridges to the meticulously applied côtes de Genève. You will also notice the Poiçon de Geneve on the case as well, meaning that Vacheron Constantin not only adheres to the Geneva Hallmark standard on their movements but the case as well.

Setting the Overseas Dual Time is fairly intuitive, thanks to its well-designed and thought-out crown and pusher system. The main crown at 3 o’clock handles standard time-setting duties – pull it to the second position to adjust the local hour hand independently, making quick time zone changes effortless while travelling. A further pull to the third position lets you set the minutes and home time simultaneously, with the AM/PM indicator at 9 o’clock ensuring you always know whether it’s day or night back home.

The date display, which is linked to the local time, can be easily adjusted via the screw-down pusher at 4 o’clock, making it simple to correct when travelling or just at the end of the month. The other added trick is the second time zone hand can actually be hidden away behind the hour hand by just adjusting the second time zone to sit behind the home time hour. Ok, so it’s more a neat hack for any 12-hour dual time than being unique to Vacheron Constantin, but worth the mention anyway!

Final Thoughts

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time is a watch that I believe delivers on its promise of being the ultimate luxury travel companion. Ok, I didn’t travel with the watch (unfortunately), but it nails that perfect balance between refined elegance and everyday practicality, making it just as comfortable on the wrist in a business lounge as it is on a weekend getaway.

The dual-time functionality is executed brilliantly being pretty intuitive, easy to adjust on the fly, and backed by the Caliber 5110 DT, a movement that’s robust, well-crafted and finished. Add in the interchangeable strap system, and you’ve got a watch that effortlessly adapts to different occasions without skipping a beat.

That being said, at 41mm, sometimes looking more like 42mm or 43mm, it does have some wrist presence, and with a price tag of AUD $52,000, it’s very much a serious collector’s piece. But for those who appreciate top-tier craftsmanship, the backing of the work via the Geneva Seal, and a design that seamlessly merges luxury with functionality, the Overseas Dual Time is hard to beat.

Reference: 7920V/210A-B333 (current model)

Specifications:

• Dimensions: 41mm diameter, 12mm thickness and 48.6mm lug-to-lug
• Case: Stainless steel, brushed and polished
• Dial: Silver-toned lacquered with sunburst satin finish; date at 6 o’clock; snailed counters; 18K gold dual-time hands; 18K gold applied hour and minute hands and hour-markers highlighted with blue Super-LumiNova®
• Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Case Back: Transparent sapphire crystal
• Movement: Vacheron Constantin Caliber 5110 DT automatic beating at 4Hz / 28,800 VpH
• Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, dual time zone, day/night indicator, date (linked to local time)
• Power Reserve: Approximately 60 hours
• Water Resistance: 150 meters (15 bar)
• Bracelet/Strap: Interchangeable system with a stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp with comfort adjustment, calfskin leather strap, and rubber strap

Availability: Available from Vacheron Constantin boutiques or retailers. For more information and local contact details, head to Vacheron-Constantin.com

Australian Retail Price: A$52,000

Image Gallery