Matt Clymo 
The 270th Anniversary celebrations continue for Vacheron Constantin who has launched a new Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date collection, and the dials are the showstopper!
When it comes to watch brands, there are few that are older than Vacheron Constantin, and none that have been in continual operation as the same company for as long as Vacheron. It is the world’s oldest continually operating watch brand, a testament to the brand that Jean-Marc Vacheron started, and then along with François Constantin built. However, Vacheron Constantin is a tale of two eras, which is somewhat paradoxical, but also possibly explains its longevity. On the one hand, you have the oldest continually operating watch brand, but on the other, many of their now iconic collections are not that old! And it’s perhaps this ability to continually create collections that are both new and timeless, appealing to a range of tastes that transcend generations is one of the keys to Vacheron’s success.
The Patrimony Collection is one such collection that is both old and new. It was introduced back in 2004, so it is officially 21 this year and still a young pup comparatively speaking, but the design is timeless, having received inspiration from watches of the 1950s – big round, sleek and clean dials that are understated. This year for Watches & Wonders 2025, Vacheron Constantin may have deviated a little from the “understated” part of the Patrimony DNA, but as it’s Vacheron’s birthday, we can overlook this, especially when you see the new limited edition Patrimony Moonphase collection in person!
Both pieces are part of a limited run of 270 pieces each, individually numbers, and are crafted from 18k Pink Gold and 18k White Gold respectively. These are emblematic of Vacheron Constantin, and while the Moon Phase Retrograde Date is not a new model, the way Vacheron Constantin has decorated and finished these anniversary pieces are fitting for the Maison’s 270th Birthday.
They are both in the 42.5mm case like the current line up, however, the stand out of these pieces is the special guilloche dials that are on both. In-person, the light-play on these is fantastic as it gives the dial depth, but the combination of different directions of the guilloche pattern means from different angles, it does look like the dial is made up of slightly varying shades of whites and silvers.
On closer inspection, you’re able to see each of the angles criss-crossing the dial, stemming from the Maltese Cross down between the 7 and 8 o’clock position. The retrograde date flanks the top half of the dial, with the 18k backend gold date arrow indicating the day of the month. If you look closely, the guilloche behind the date hand makes it look like the hand is zig-zagged, but this is just another optical illusion thanks to the dial’s design
The moon phase aperture at 6 o’clock indicates the moon’s current phase, with the moon disc set apart from the deep blue sky in the background. Whereas the previous Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date had a gold disc and starry sky, this version opts for a cleaner look on the background but with a more detailed moon that evokes the cratered surface of the moon. Each of the model’s moons is colour-matched to the case being done in 18k Pink and White Gold respectively.
Turning the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde over you’re graced with Vacheron’s Calibre 2460 R31L/270 with a 22k gold rotor peering through the caseback. Having a 40-hour power reserve and beating at 4Hz, the calibre keeps the moon phase accurate to a 1-day variation in 122 years. The Calibre is also marked with the Poinçon de Genève, the Hallmark of Geneva meaning an extremely high level of quality, craftsmanship and build based around the stringent checks that go into this.
On the wrist, this piece feels exactly like it should. It is one of those watches that you can dress up and it seems right at home, or dressed down a little to class up an outfit. The size is pretty perfect too, however, this is subjective and dependent on your wrist size. In the below images, you can see the Patrimony dressed up on Champ’s 16.5cm wrist, and on me dressed down a little, on my 17.5cm wrist for comparison.
Initial thoughts
Having some initial thoughts on a newly released watch is always easier when you see it in person. Often we in the media have the press releases and images supplied by the brands when first writing it up, and while I always have some thoughts, I always reserve my judgement until I can get the watch in my hands. It’s only fair. However, in instances like this, when I’m able to have the pieces in my hands from the get-go, it’s much easier to write about and form an opinion on the watch itself.
Seeing the new Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Dates in person I will say that pictures, although I’ve tried to, don’t do these as much justice as they do with the naked eye. The gold is finished beautifully on the case with high polishing all around. While this makes the watches more prone to scratches and marks like all precious metal pieces, I doubt you will be taking these off the beaten path at all. The dials are stunning. The guilloche pattern on these pieces really makes them stand out and is fitting for the 270th anniversary, not to mention a limited edition of 270 pieces each.
I honestly found these hard to fault in the time I had with the pieces. Perhaps an extended wear may lead me to discover more and be a little more critical of these, but based on my first experience that could prove difficult. All I will say is that these are probably not your everyday pieces if you’ve not got a lifestyle or job that is more suited to wearing a dressier precious metal piece. Saying this however, wearing these you feel a little more classic, and just a little more classy, which for pieces like these, is exactly what they’re intended to do.
References: 4010U/000G-H057 (White Gold) & 4010U/000G-H117 (Pink Gold)
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 42.5mm x 9.7mm thick and 49.07mm lug-to-lug.
- Case Material: 18k 5N Pink Gold or 18k White gold
- Dial: Silver-toned guilloche dials with Maltese Cross motif at 7:30. Retrograde date and moon phase. 18K gold applied hour-markers and hours/minutes hands, blued 18K gold retrograde date hand
- Movement: In-house Calibre 2460 R31L/270 automatic movement, beating at 4Hz / 28,800 Vph
- Power Reserve: 40hrs
- Water resistance: 30m
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
- Case back: Sapphire case back with anti-reflective coating
- Strap: Green alligator leather with 18k White or 18k Pink Gold pin buckle
