Mario Canonizado 
Serenely setting sail into the annals of quiet luxury, the master watchmakers of the Swiss brand have conjured up yet another stunning piece that puts the Devil in the details!
I (like most of my generation) find myself haphazardly scrolling through the endless void of the internet. While certainly unhealthy, it has allowed me to glean a decent understanding of a few rapidly emerging trends in the fashion sphere: ‘neo-vintage’ and ‘stealth wealth.’ While the former is fairly cut-and-dried, denoting slightly older yet not outdated design principles, the latter seems to spark a lot of debate. Not everyone can seem to agree on what ‘stealth wealth’ truly looks like, with arguments ranging from the use of an ‘old money aesthetic’ – a term often used interchangeably with ‘stealth wealth’ – to the concept of wearing cheap-looking clothes that are, in fact, outrageously expensive. It’s a concept that seems notoriously difficult to pin down in the clothing industry, but thankfully, we at Watch Advice work with… you guessed it! In this field, we believe the watch world has long since hit that ‘stealth wealth’ balance the fashion industry is still so desperately seeking.
Case in point? Look no further than the Sandoz Family Foundation. Through the vision of legendary watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the Foundation has been behind Parmigiani Fleurier since 1996. For nearly three decades, Parmigiani Fleurier has specialised in blending their team’s wealth of experience – and Sandoz’ wealth in the literal sense – to create fantastical works of haute horlogerie. If the Sandoz name sounds familiar, it’s likely because you’ve come across it before, though perhaps not in the way you might expect. The Foundation is privately owned by Novartis, a Swiss pharmaceutical giant that was once known as Sandoz. This company is best known for manufacturing a wide range of generic pharmaceuticals.
Ever taken amoxycillin for a bacterial infection, or alprazolam to ease anxiety? Chances are, you’ve encountered Sandoz in your medicine cabinet. The Foundation, however, primarily supports cultural and artistic initiatives in Switzerland. This is where the connection to watchmaking comes into play – especially this year – as Parmigiani Fleurier has debuts the newest expansion of their modern staple, the Tonda PF 36mm in Stone Blue. First conceived in 2021, the Tonda PF collection comfortably cemented itself as the flagship of the Fleurier-based brand, merging timeless aesthetics with the refined mechanical artistry that has become a signature of Michel Parmigiani’s craftsmanship. However, when you hear ‘fantastical works of haute horlogerie,‘ you might picture the outlandish, otherworldly designs of great brands like MB&F or Behrens. If that’s the case, Parmigiani Fleurier’s latest addition to their roster may feel a bit understated by comparison.
Despite measuring just 36mm wide, 41mm long, and a slim 8.6mm thick, this year’s newest debutante is not to be underestimated. Its humble silhouette is intentional, as beneath its seemingly simple exterior lies one of the most intricately detailed horological machines you’ll encounter. The case, crafted from industry-standard stainless steel, is finished to a dizzying level, accompanied by a delicately hand-burled 950 platinum bezel. Often reserved for timepieces as exquisitely crafted as they are exorbitantly priced, the platinum bezel enhances both the aesthetics and weight of the Tonda PF 36mm, lending it a more substantial wrist presence despite its compact sizing.
From the front, the Tonda PF 36mm is adorned with Parmigiani Fleurier’s signature Stone Blue dial – a colour previously exclusive to the full-platinum 40mm version of the collection. According to the brand, this colour draws inspiration from the architectural palette of the legendary Le Corbusier, striking a shade that evokes both the sea and the morning sky. It feels like the perfect companion for summers spent along the sun-kissed coasts of the French Riviera or the Amalfi – though I wouldn’t mind seeing it shine on a cloudy day. A pale blue such as this would find much success during overcast weather, as it tends to shine brighter than other colour combinations even with the absence of direct sunlight.
Though they come from the same family, the finishing of the dial makes it clear that the 40mm and 36mm models share little beyond their colour and frame. Unlike the sandblasted finish of the 40mm reference, the Tonda PF 36mm in Stone Blue aligns with the rest of the lineup, featuring an exceptionally rare form of guilloché. This pattern, known as grain d’orge (barley grain), interacts with light in a way few other guilloché techniques can, creating a mesmerising wave-like texture that subtly shifts in hue depending on the viewing angle.
Should you ever get tired from gazing into the hypnotic dial finsihing, Parmigiani Fleurier welcomes you to get lost in the transparent case back, too. Powering the hours and minutes of the Tonda PF 36mm is the familiar PF770-HM movement, with the luxury standard beat rate of 4Hz/28,800VpH on a power reserve of 60 hours. Though it lacks the micro-rotor movement of its larger cousin, the automatic PF770-HM has long since been a staple of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF 36mm collection, making it a suitable companion for the everyday ride-along.
That said, unless you were savvy (or lucky) enough to, say, invest in Bitcoin back in 2008, I doubt this would be your daily beater – but if it is, good on you! At the very least, Parmigiani Fleurier has ensured the Tonda PF 36mm is up for the challenge, equipping it with 100 meters of water resistance. Whether that means a casual dip in the ocean or a rough day at sea on your Sunseeker, rest assured – it can handle it. My only nitpick is that a 4Hz beat rate on a watch with no second hand feels like a bit of overkill. But in the world of haute horlogerie, ‘overkill’ is typically just referred to as ‘Tuesday.’ At least, unlike other watches I’ve seen without a second hand, you can tell if the movement is working by seeing the escapement move in the case back.
My Thoughts
If you’re new to watches, you might be surprised to learn that one of the biggest pharmaceutical companies on the planet also dabbles in horology through Parmigiani Fleurier. You might be even more startled to discover their ownership of ValFleurier, an exceptionally high-end movement manufacturer that has played a role in crafting the beating hearts of Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille, and even TAG Heuer’s Monaco Split Seconds, released at Watches and Wonders 2024. At least within the context of the watch industry, those conspiracy theorists were right – ‘Big Pharma’ really does run everything.
In this instance, however, at least they don’t make much of a fuss about it. But that’s because Parmigiani Fleurier doesn’t need to. They’ve never been ones for grandiose marketing campaigns, big-time celebrity or influencer collaborations, or in-your-face advertising that you instinctively skip to watch a YouTube video. As mentioned earlier, they are the epitome of ‘stealth wealth:’ a brand for those who know they have power but choose not to flaunt it. It’s akin to those unsuspecting cyclists who accidentally run into King Charles – a well-documented Parmigiani Fleurier tragic – on his morning hike.
The Tonda PF 36mm in Stone Blue, though a modest addition to the Parmigiani roster, would be nothing short of an earth-shattering release for most other watch brands. Delicately finished yet built to the highest horological standards, it seamlessly blends its elegance with ruthless engineering. Freshly released, this watch is poised to slot in effortlessly into the Tonda PF family, continuing to nail ‘stealth wealth’ in the only way Parmigiani Fleurier knows how: in silence.
Reference: PFC804-1020005-100182
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 36mm case diameter x 41mm lug-to-lug x 8.6mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel with 950 platinum bezel
- Dial: Stone blue with Grain d’Orge (barley grain) guilloché pattern
- Movement: Automatic PF770-HM
- Power Reserve: 60h
- Water Resistance: 100m (10bar)
- Strap: Steel bracelet with folding clasp
