Matt Clymo 
The Tank Louis Cartier is one of the most synonymous pieces from the Maison, and for Watches & Wonders 2025, they have released two new models in a larger size and MC 1899 automatic movement.
A look through the decades at Cartier’s watches is like a treasure trove of iconic watches and designs all under one roof. There are very few brands in the industry today that have crafted such a seminal collection of designs that are almost instantly recognisable. Santos de Cartier, Santos Dumont, Panthère, Crash, Ballon Bleu, Pasha, Baignoire the list goes on. Perhaps, and arguably, one of the most iconic collections from Cartier is Tank. If you see a rectangular watch today on someones wrist, the chances are its design roots come from the Tank, or it could very well be a tank itself.
Created in 1917 by Louis Cartier, the design was inspired from a Renault FT-17 tank that was used in WWI, and when looking from the top down, evokes the shape of the tank with is long treads on either side. It does go to show that beauty can come from anywhere, and hats off to Louis Cartier who could turn something like a vehicle used in war into one of the most timeless and beautiful watches ever made. Even if you’re not into rectangular shaped pieces, you still have to admire them for their design, not to mention how good they look on the wrist when dressed up. While Louis Cartier was not one to rest on his laurels, just 5 years later in 1922, he came out with the Tank Louis Cartier. This is perhaps the most iconic Tank of all with it’s softer brancards (side bars) and more refined lines compared to the original, and the one Tank that people consider the true Tank. And this year, Cartier has given us a larger version of the Tank Louis Cartier, well, two in fact – one in 18k Yellow Gold and another in 19k Rose Gold, both complete with an automatic Manufacture Cartier movement, the 1899 MC.
Sized in a larger 38.1mm x 27.75mm case and with a thickness of just 8.18mm, each now houses the 1899 MC automatic movement, where as previously the Tank Louis Cartier was hand wound mechanical or in the smaller models, quartz. The 1899 MC was launched in 2023 and is the same that is found in the Américaine large automatic model. It has 40 hour power reserve, which by today’s standards isn’t massive, but like with all things Cartier, the movement is almost secondary to the design. Now this isn’t taking anything away from Cartier’s movements as they are as good as any out there, something i experienced last year when I had the chance to visit the Manufacture in La Chaux de Fonds, however, for Cartier, design and style usurps power as Cartier watches are designed to wear everyday.
The dial is classic Cartier on both models with a Flinqué dial at the base that has sunray striations emanating from the centre and getting darker as they move to the outer dial. Overlayed on this, Roman numerals around the outer of the dial with the “Cartier” in the VII numeral. The inner track is the iconic railway track style that is found on many Cartier models, and blue fired sword hands let the user know the time. Setting the time is done via the cabochon capped crown, yet another iconic feature of Cartier timepieces.
Each model is done in 18k gold, one in yellow, the other in rose gold and each with an alligator strap – a grey alligator strap paired with the yellow gold model and a dark brown on the rose gold which offsets the reddish hue nicely. Both models are paired with a matching yellow or rose gold pin buckle to fasten it to the wrist.
Initial Thoughts
Classics are classic for a reason. They are timeless and transcend trends, and while there may be subtle changes and material updates throughout the decades, the DNA and essence of what make a piece timeless stays true to the original. For me, Cartier does this so very well, which is why if I go back to my opening paragraph rattling off the different Cartier collections, you can imagine these in your mind clearly because of how Cartier is able to both create and iterate on their timeless designs. Tank, and Tank Louis Cartier is but one of these.
The new Tank Louis Cartier is the next evolution in the Tank’s history, now over 100 years old. Personally I’ve always found rectangular dress watches a little on the smaller side for my tastes, but there have been a few that have piqued my interest in recent times, pieces like the Tank Chinoise we showcased at our Cartier x Watch Advice collector evening late last year. This new update of the Tank Louis Cartier in the larger size and 1899 MC automatic movement ticks a lot of boxes, especially for people such as myself who like a slightly bigger dress watch, and one that is automatic rather than a manual wind. Yes, the automatic isn’t as traditional, but, to me, this is a good thing as I love an automatic watch. Saying this, Cartier has still managed to keep the thickness of the watch down to just over 8mm, so it’s still thin and elegant, but designed for those who want a piece to be noticed that little bit more, and to me, this is a great next step in the Tank’s evolution.
References: CRWGTA0357 (Yellow Gold) / CRWGTA0346 (Rose Gold)
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 38.1mm x 27.75 mm x 8.18mm Thick
- Case Material: 18k Yellow or Rose Gold
- Dial: Flinqué dial with Roman numerals, railway track and blue-fired sword hands
- Movement: Automatic Winding 1899 MC movement. Beating at 4Hz (28,800 VpH)
- Power Reserve: Approx. 40 hours
- Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
- Crystal: Faceted Sapphire crystal
- Strap: Semi-matte grey or brown alligator leather strap with Yellow or Rose gold pin buckle.
