Mario Canonizado 
Harnessing the power of the ‘Golden Ratio,’ the master watchmakers at the independent brand have unveiled yet another technological masterpiece – now thinner than ever!
The watch world is a constantly expanding industry. While the necessity for wristwatches may have passed, even in the age of quartz, digital, and smartwatch technology, more people are being drawn to them than ever before. Granted, it took yet another global crisis to reignite interest in the horological world, but that spark has inspired many to once again rally in the name of mechanical watchmaking. From humble start-up microbrands to the towering giants of the industry, creativity and innovation in the modern era is coming from all sides.
Established in 2017 by the eponymous husband-and-wife duo of Rodolfo and Emmanuelle Festa-Bianchet, the independent watchmaker is neither a storied heritage brand nor a humble microbrand. They don’t have the long-standing reputation of industry giants, nor do they come from modest beginnings like many microbrands. What they do possess, however, may be just as valuable: a boundless imagination, an innovative spirit, and an absolute love for the craft. Reflecting this in their watchmaking, Bianchet has pushed the boundaries of horology, using the Golden Ratio and Fibonacci sequence as guidelines to reveal the true beauty at the core of watchmaking. They’ve made waves so significant that we’ve even felt their impact here in Australia, by way of the Sydney International Watch Fair!
Related Reading: The Sydney International Watch Fair Showcases Some Of The Best Independent Brands From Switzerland
However, perhaps the biggest splash they’ve made in the industry to date is with their maiden timepiece, the Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 Openworked. Debuting at 2021’s Geneva Watch Days, the B1.618 was named after the Bianchet family’s deep appreciation for the Golden Ratio – the artistic and mathematical principle that governs beauty in nature and classical art. By incorporating this ratio into every aspect of the design – even naming the timepiece after the number itself (1.618) – the B1.618 series helped usher in a new generation of horological excellence with its contemporary tonneau (barrel) shape and masterfully engineered movement.
This year, the beauty of watchmaking continues to shine through the halls of the Bianchet manufactory, as they reveal a new rendition of the B1.618, named the UltraFino. As the name suggests, this marks Bianchet’s first venture into creating an ultra-thin version of the collection. For the young Neuchâtel-based brand, however, it also signifies several notable firsts, including their first automatic movement and their debut offering with a metal bracelet. Measuring a comfortable 40mm wide, 47mm long, and just 8.9mm thin, the UltraFino offers a stylish and comfortable fit for a wide variety of wrists. This is largely due to the curvature of the tonneau case, which arcs with a 1.2mm curve from lug-to-lug, allowing it to mould seamlessly to the wearer’s wrist.
Though the silhouette may suggest fragility, the Bianchet B1.618 UltraFino is anything but. Built with Grade 5 titanium and boasting 50m water resistance, it also has the ability to withstand up to 5,000Gs (gravitational forces) of shock. To put that into perspective, 5,000Gs of force is an extreme shock rarely encountered outside high-speed scenarios, like manoeuvres in a jet fighter, head-on collisions in a racing car, or a high-stakes tennis match on the wrist of ambassador Grigor Dimitrov. For everyday wear, however, you can be confident that the B1.618 UltraFino is ready to handle the rigours of daily life with ease.
The new Bianchet 1.618 UltraFino comes in four all-new references – two featuring the skeleton design typical of Bianchet’s aesthetic, and two more with a solid dial, making way for the tourbillon complication. The skeleton duo, paired with either red or blue vulcanised rubber straps, has been decorated once again in accordance with the Golden Ratio, ensuring both visual and proportional harmony in every detail. The black and blue solid dials, on the other hand, mark the first time Bianchet has closed off the dial on their watches. True to form, the brand does not disappoint, as the closed dials are adorned with Bianchet’s proprietary “Golden Diamond” guilloché pattern, drawing inspiration from the iconic Clous de Paris (hobnail) finishing. While all four references come on integrated titanium bracelets, Bianchet also offers complementary colour-matched rubber straps for each watch to be switched out on.
Of course, a watch finished and developed as meticulously as this one deserves a movement to match. Once again, the craftsmen and engineers at Bianchet’s manufactory did not disappoint with the introduction of the UT-01 movement. As previously noted, the UT-01 is Bianchet’s first-ever automatic movement and boasts a reliable 60-hour power reserve, backed by a steady 3Hz (21,600 VpH) beat rate.
True to form, the movement has been finished in accordance with the Golden Ratio, with the bridges beautifully adorned as such. Visible through the case back – or through the front, if you prefer the skeletonised version – the movement is absolutely stunning from every angle. One consistent detail across all four models is the coveted tourbillon complication, which helps maintain exceptional accuracy by nullifying the effects of gravity on the regulating organ. Although it doesn’t come with a COSC certificate by default, Bianchet has stated they are more than happy to provide one upon request for your B1.618 UltraFino.
Related Reading: The Art of Complications: Tourbillons
My Thoughts
I always love when people enter the watch world and immediately get confused by the tonneau case shape. I also love when seasoned enthusiasts assume the tonneau case belongs to just one brand! Of course, companies like Richard Mille and Franck Muller have popularised the shape in modern watchmaking, but that doesn’t mean they stand alone at the top.
Related Reading: Our Christmas Gift Guide to Tonneau/Barrel Watches
With the release of the Bianchet B1.618 UltraFino, I’d say they are among the rising stars in this niche. It’s exhausting to see only a select few brands regarded as the pinnacle of tonneau-shaped watchmaking, so witnessing a new competitor emerge is refreshing. However, Bianchet isn’t just another ambitious up-and-comer. For the past ten years, they have been driven by an unwavering belief in advancing the watch industry. Their passion, combined with aesthetic and technical prowess, has placed them at the forefront of independent watchmaking. They serve as a stark reminder that the top brands should never get complacent. At the rate Bianchet is going, they won’t just be considered equals or underdogs for long. Sooner or later, they might just surpass them.
References:
- UFFTSKTNBL: Blue Skeleton
- UFFTSKTNRD: Red Skeleton
- UFFTDLTNBL: Blue Classic
- UFFTDLTNBK: Black Classic
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 40mm case diameter x 47.39 lug-to-lug x 8.9mm thickness
- Case Material: Grade 5 titanium with Blue/Red/Black vulcanized rubber
- Dial: Skeleton/Blue/Black
- Movement: Automatic Bianchet UT01 with tourbillon complication
- Power Reserve: 60 hours
- Water Resistance: 50m (5bar)
- Strap: Integrated titanium bracelet with butterfly clasp or colour-matched rubber strap with titanium buckle
