Mario Canonizado 
Yes, that Leica – the same one that makes cameras! Using that same microengineering know-how, the Wetzlar-based brand has unveiled the fourth reference in their modern lineup.
Working at Watch Advice has taught me a lot of things. Writing articles, most of all, but what I probably should’ve expected more of is learning the art of photography. It’s certainly more daunting than I thought! Even the slightest change in light, weather conditions, or even the angle of my wrist irrevocably affecting the quality of a single shot. It’s an overwhelming art form that presents so many unique challenges to it, which can make it difficult to wrap my head around. Then again, however, watches were once overwhelming to me too: complicated, mechanical wonders machines packed with endless details and historical significance. But just like writing about them, mastering their photography is a challenge worth embracing, one shot at a time.
German camera brand Leica knows this all too well. Permanently seated within the Pantheon of master camera engineers, Leica secured this spot through their mastery of the photography industry. Since their founding in 1986, their core ideal was never just to drive innovation as an end goal, but to do so for the benefit of their users, the industry, and the legacy of Leica themselves. With the camera industry conquered, however, Leica was hungry to move onto a new challenge, beginning to develop a vested interest in horology. And why wouldn’t they? The micro-engineering required in a camera isn’t a far cry from the often-demanding skills of watchmaking. Also, being based in Germany puts them in a prime position to learn from the very best, such as Hanhart and A. Lange & Söhne.
So after foraying into the watch game in 2018, this year Leica has graced us with their sixth official watch release, and their fourth in the present-day line-up: The ZM12. An abbreviation of the German Zeitmesser (meaning ‘timepiece’), the Leica ZM12 is a simplistic yet wholly unique take on a modern, time-only, integrated bracelet sports watch. Some – myself included – may roll their eyes at another contender in a bloated horological subgenre. However, it’s evident that the brand’s minimalistic approach to design still takes deliberate steps to not just stand out, but to stand alone.
The design of the ZM12 takes many cues from its predecessor, the ZM11 – most of all, that striking dial! The Leica ZM collection showcases a horizontally lined, ‘herringbone’ finish composed of two distinct layers. This design creates a dynamic and visually captivating viewing experience, with shifts in lighting or angle dramatically transforming the watch’s appearance – an approach that closely mirrors the principles of photography; Unsurprisingly, the ZM12 draws significant inspiration from the brand’s rich history in camera engineering. In that respect, the aforementioned dial finishing was intentional, with the horizontal texturing mimicking that of the grooves of a camera’s focus rings. Briefly flipping the watch over, the connection becomes even more apparent: the quick-change strap system is marked by a red button, a direct nod to the iconic red shutter button featured on all Leica cameras. Compounded with the highly precise polishing and brushing pervading throughout the watch, the ZM12’s careful design maintains a fresh look amidst a sea of would-be lookalikes.
Where it begins to differ from its older brother, however, is in its size and all-new movement. Sized at a modest 39mm (case diameter) x 13mm (thickness), combined with a 100m water resistance, the Leica ZM12 is suited for all comers. Given the growing trend of smaller, ergonomic timepieces, the ZM12 positions itself well within those bounds, making it perfect as a unisex timepiece. I myself am rather slight of wrist, but do note that the 41mm ZM11 does still fit reasonably well on me. The ZM11 has about a 47mm lug-to-lug even on the bracelet, so I suspect the wearability of the ZM12 should do nicely – even if the bracelet links don’t articulate far.
Finally, the movement of the new ZM12 – the Leica LA-3002 – makes its debut in the watch, visible through the see-through case back. Running at the luxury standard of 4Hz/28,800VpH, the LA-3002 is backed by a stable 60-hour power reserve whilst also features a small-seconds complication. You won’t find the traditional Côtes de Genève (Geneva striping) on the movement – yet it has still been finished in incredible detail whilst still reflecting the utilitarian and modernistic nature of the brand. As I previously mentioned, Leica’s watchmaking prowess has progressed massively in comparison to many other ‘non-watch’ brands of similar repute. This is large in part due to their collaboration with Chronode SA, an independent movement manufacturer headed by Jean-François Mojon. Master watchmaker at Cyrus one day, Chronode’s Managing Director the next, Mojon’s double role -and mastery of both – make him the perfect partner in Leica’s escapades.
Related Reading: Part 2 Of Our Sydney International Watch Fair Recap
My Thoughts
Ever since I realised that Leica was capable of making more than just cameras, I’ve followed their horological journey with a keen eye. As far as engineering chops go, they certainly found their footing fast. In a few short years, they had gathered an eclectic yet skilled crew to help them break into the watch industry – ranging from experienced industry buffs like Daniel Blunschi and Marcus Eilinger to the legendary Richard Meis, a major player in the design of A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1 among others.
However, even with the release of the LM1 and LM2, Leica still struggled to break in. The ZM11’s release in 2023, in effect, became their saving grace, solidifying its place in the watch industry. It struck the perfect balance of technical and artistic excellence, thanks to a minimalistic yet inspired design bolstered by an incredible movement manufacturer. Now, with the release of the ZM12, Leica has once again taken another promising step in the right direction: A celebration worthy of the brand’s refined nature. Though it may be a small victory – one that you may blink and miss – you can count on Leica to capture the moment for themselves, either through their watchmaking or their cameras!
References:
- Silver/Gray on Steel: LCK288
- Olive/Black on Steel: LCK292
- Blue/Orange on Steel: LCK284
- Coffee/Black on Titanium: LCK280
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 39mm case diameter x 13mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel/Grade 5 titanium (LCK280)
- Dial: Silver & Gray/Olive green & black/Blue & orange/Brown
- Movement: Automatic Leica LA-3002 with small-seconds complication
- Power Reserve: 60h
- Water Resistance: 100m (10bar)
- Strap: Quick-exchange Stainless steel with butterfly folding clasp/Black or orange Clous de Paris (hobnail) rubber strap/Tan textile strap with steel or titanium buckle
Australian RRPs:
- Silver/Gray on Steel: AU$11,990
- Olive/Black on Steel: AU$10,990
- Blue/Orange on Steel: AU$11,250
- Coffee/Black on Titanium: AU$12,150
