10

For what is now 270 years, Vacheron Constantin has been a part of the watch industry – a perfect marriage of horological prowess and elegant design principles. So, what has the brand done to capture the imaginations of millions of watch enthusiasts worldwide? 

Anyone who is anyone in watchmaking has likely heard of the ‘Big Three:’ a trio of brands representing the very best of Swiss high horology. While two of those brands – Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet – are constantly embroiled in a battle for the limelight, the third member maintains a quieter presence. Yet, with a heritage spanning over nearly three centuries, Vacheron Constantin stands alone. Not only are they the oldest continuously operating watchmaker in the world, but their commitment to tradition, innovation and ruthless craftsmanship has made a significant splash in the industry – whilst barely saying a word.

Vacheron Constantin’s heritage is built on centuries of watchmaking mastery, allowing the Richemont brand to explore nearly every aspect of horology. Over the years, they’ve released many career-defining models, some of which have left a distinct mark. While Sam has already provided an in-depth look at the brand’s illustrious history, I’ve decided to give an overview of their watches that have stood the test of time – or have just begun their journey. These collections, still available today, embody the philosophy of Vacheron Constantin and have cemented their place in the brand’s distinguished legacy.

Related Reading: Vacheron Constantin: The Watchmaker That Defined Luxury For 270 Years

You Know My Name

When it comes to discussing the iconic collections of Vacheron Constantin, it’s important to understand that, until the 20th century, the brand didn’t typically assign names to its timepieces. Watches were often identified by reference numbers or specific characteristics. For instance, the Chronomètre Royal, was trademarked by Vacheron in 1907.

However, they were never defined as a named collection of watches – just a title denoting their incredible timekeeping precision. Similarly, 1955’s Cornes de Vache watches were celebrated for their distinctive “cow horn” lugs. A feature that certainly sets them apart, but not one that constituted a unified identity across several timepieces. It wasn’t until the 222nd anniversary of the brand that we would see the brand break convention. In 1977, Vacheron Constantin was in search of a revolutionary new piece – one that could signal the coming of a new era for the Swiss watchmakers. 

Enter Jörg Hysek, a talented young designer with a background as a sculptor in Italy. A German native, he was first introduced to watch design under Rolex’s guidance before venturing out on his own at just 24. As the son of a goldsmith, Hysek was already familiar with luxury jewellery, knowledge that proved invaluable when he was recruited by Vacheron Constantin. There, he would design the 222 –  the brand’s first watch to bear a name, with a nod towards the brand’s 222nd year of operation. Interestingly, Jean-Marc Vacheron was also 24 when he founded his eponymous brand, which made Hysek’s contribution all the more serendipitous.

With its innovative monobloc case, bottle cap-style bezel, and integrated bracelet, the 222 was a bold departure from Vacheron’s traditional, formal aesthetic, arriving at the peak of the integrated sports watch craze. Amidst such stiff competition like the Nautilus and the Royal Oak, designing a recognisable and iconic timepiece would have been a challenge for many, but Hysek’s ingenuity made it look easy. The 222’s release would become symbolic for Vacheron Constantin: Even in their old age, they still had plenty of tricks up their sleeves.

Eventually, Hysek would venture away from Vacheron Constantin, designing pieces for other brands such as Breguet, Tiffany & Co., and TAG Heuer. Once again, the brand was in need of a creation that would strengthen its presence in the watch world. In 1990, this came with the introduction of the Historiques collection, designed to breathe new life into Vacheron Constantin’s rich legacy. The collection seamlessly blends faithful recreations from the brand’s archives with modern engineering, creating contemporary timepieces that both honour and celebrate the brand’s storied past while incorporating the precision and innovation of today’s watchmaking. 

Today, the Historiques collection spans eight watches across three collections, including the American 1921, introduced in 2021 as a diagonally-skewed driver’s style dress watch; the aforementioned Cornes de Vache watches; and two versions of the returning 222. In fact, the 222 had been discontinued just seven years after its conception and had been laying dormant since 1984. Never one to ignore once-in-a-lifetime opportunities, however, Vacheron Constantin decided to revive the 222 line, on the second of February 2022 – ‘Twosday.’ The 2025 re-release of the stainless steel reference simultaneously establishes the 222, the oldest and youngest named watch in the brand’s current roster. 

A Trip Overseas

The release of the 222 identified the change in modern sensibilities towards wristwatches. The luxury sports watch, once a pariah of the industry, was quickly becoming the norm, and Vacheron Constantin needed a new face that could re-establish and reinvigorate their position at the top of the horological ladder. Under the leadership of Vincent Kaufmann and with the expertise of designer Dino Modolo, Vacheron Constantin set out to create this new icon. Their efforts culminated in the 1996 launch of the Overseas collection. Drawing from founding partner François Constantin’s love of travel, the Overseas was designed to provide an exceptional luxury experience for the discerning traveller while also building on the legacy left by the then-discontinued 222. 

Similarly to its predecessor, the Overseas lineup is an integrated bracelet sports watch built atop a barrel-shaped case, sporting an impressive level of water resistance. However, the Overseas saw Vacheron Constantin swap out many of the 222’s design elements for a more elegant appearance. Taking inspiration from their motif, Vacheron Constantin would integrate the lines of the Maltese cross throughout their design. Its rounded and smoothed appearance, compounded by a sculpted bezel and bracelet, was in stark contrast to the geometric line present in the 222. Distinctive from Hysek’s brainchild in almost every way, the Overseas became one of Vacheron Constantin’s greatest modern successes and would eventually take its place at the forefront of the modern roster.

In the early 2000s, Vacheron Constantin would also bring even more heritage timepieces back into the fold. Unlike the Historiques collection, which brought back typically more obscure or hard-to-produce references, Vacheron Constantin had already gained a lot of familiarity in producing the Malte and Patrimony lines – even before they had actual names. The Malte drew inspiration from the tonneau (barrel) watches, a shape made famous by Cartier in the early 1900s. These watches, bearing the name of the Maltese Cross motif, have now become indicative of uncommon and complex innovations made by the Genevan brand, and perhaps live closest to their slogan, “One of Not Many.” 

On the other hand, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony represents the ideals and stylistic purity that were omnipresent throughout the 1950s. Made to be as elegant as they are discreet, the Patrimony line draws from minimalistic heritage references. This has allowed the brand to produce some of the most simplistic yet compelling dress watch designs in their entire roster. There’s only so far that Vacheron Constantin can push, however, so they’re not afraid to call upon assistance in reinvigorating this iconic wristwatch – namely from their brand ambassador and ‘Simplexity’ expert, Ora Ïto.

Related Reading: Vacheron Constantin Enlists Ora Ïto to Celebrate the Patrimony’s 20th Birthday

Tradition & Modernity

Leaving the 2010s and entering into the 2020s, it became evident that Vacheron Constantin’s legacy was set in stone. With the introduction of the Overseas, the excitement of the Historiques line, and solid collections in the Patrimony and Malte, their position in the ‘Big Three’ was unanimous. But heavy is the head that wears the crown, and Vacheron Constantin – not content to rest on their laurels – set about consolidating their horological power and maintaining their lasting legacy. After over two and half centuries, it was time to take a victory lap.

The Traditionelle lineup, introduced in 2007, was Vacheron Constantin’s way of expressing victory above all. Restricted only by their imaginations, the collection became a modern and postmodern interpretation of traditional 18th-century watchmaking—that is if the masterminds of the 18th Century had access to the incredible technologies present today. Initially introducing pieces akin to the aesthetic of Patrimony, the Traditionelle quickly branched out to produce some of the most complex watches in Vacheron Constantin’s entire career.

This also meant bringing their craftsmen into the limelight with the constantly expanding Metiers d’Arts collection. Though Metiers d’Arts watches have technically been in production ever since Vacheron Constantin was founded, it was at this time when they truly began to take precedence. Pushing their artistic skills to the limit, the brand has portrayed everything from ancient China to works of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in staggering detail – all from the comfort of your wrist.

Related Reading: Vacheron Constantin Pays Tribute to Imperial China

While Vacheron Constantin had done excellent work in establishing themselves as one of the world’s greatest watchmakers, they soon encountered yet another potential issue. Once again, the change in attitudes towards watches was beginning to change: Enthusiasm for watches had begun to grow once again, yet new watch collectors were perhaps discouraged by the brand’s steep price point. As always, however, Vacheron Constantin was quick to act, releasing the FiftySix in 2018 as an entry-level alternative to their more extravagant models. Inspired by heritage designs from 1956, the release worked like a treat: Suddenly, the brand had a contender within the younger audience of watch collectors and provided a more relaxed and comfortable aesthetic in comparison to their more serious counterparts.

The Future of Vacheron Constantin

2025 marks the 270th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin, a milestone that not only celebrates the brand’s rich history but also sets the stage for its future. Over nearly three centuries, Vacheron Constantin has consistently evolved, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern innovations. As they continue to push the boundaries of haute horlogerie, their commitment to excellence remains unwavering. 

So, what does the future seem to hold for them? With diversity in the watch world becoming more of a hotly discussed topic, Vacheron Constantin has begun to increase their focus on releasing more versatile and feminine offerings. While they have already made strides with collections like 2015’s Heures Créatives and 2020’s Égérie, there’s always room for improvement in luxury watchmaking – a sentiment the Genevan brand knows all too much about.

All eyes are certainly on them now, especially with the renewed interest in watchmaking brought about by the COVID lockdowns.  It’s now up to Vacheron Constantin to capitalise on such a growing community and capture the hearts and minds of what has to be the largest horological following since the Quartz Crisis. It definitely seems like a lot of pressure now, but Vacheron Constantin’s always up to the challenge. After all, it was François Constantin who once said, “Do better if possible, and that is always possible.”