Patricia Hunt 
After a year of ownership, has the Omega Speedmaster Professional White Dial lived up to my expectations?
What I Love
- The glossy white lacquered dial
- The black applied indices that pop
- The way the white subdials merge with the dial
What I Don’t
- The lack of lume
- I always feel I want more power reserve than the standard 50 hrs
- At AU$13,450 the price may be off putting but is it worth the squeeze?
Overall Score: 9/10
- Value for money: 9/10
- Wearability: 8.5/10
- Design: 9.5/10
- Build Quality: 9/10
The release of a white dial Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch was highly anticipated, and Omega finally delivered. The white dial was teased by Omega on Daniel Craig’s wrist at the Planet Omega New York event in late 2023 sending the gram into a frenzy. It was only a matter of time.
First Impressions
My first reaction when I saw the white was wow yes I love it. The new white lacquered dial inspired by the white space suits worn by the astronauts, is the standout. As soon as I saw it at the Boutique I was instantly hooked on the dial. Watches are always better when you get to see them in the metal.
After having a black dial Speedmaster for many years, the white dial is the yin of the yang. This dial has a mood. It is so different from black. There are subtle differences from the black dial which I will describe later in my review. It is when you see the two side by side that’s when the difference jumps out.
The Design
The white dial Speedmaster has been out for nearly one year. I am sure most Speedmaster enthusiasts would have been on many forums to find out the details. If you are new to the white dial Speedmaster, or you have been considering purchasing one, here are some things that may help.
The white Speedmaster has new design choices that stand out from black dial Speedmaster Professional. The new dial has a glossy lacquered white finish with sunken subdials with ever so subtle racing track lines. It is the little details that drew me in. As I age gracefully I am looking for highly legible watches. Omega has achieved this by using diamond-polished black PVD hands to create a beautiful contrast against the white dial to make the time pop.
Another design change is the new slightly elevated applied hour markers. Against the white dial, the markers give a 3 dimensional floating illusion on the dial. This elevated dial design decision adds to the dial legibility.
You will notice the lume markers have also changed to small lume plots at the end of the hour markers. This for me is the only design decision I would change. Lume brightness on a Speedmaster isn’t a deal breaker for me, however I would have liked the lume to jump out more.
RELATED READING: Introducing Omega’s New White Dial Speedmaster Moonwatch
The white Speedmaster has stayed true to the characteristics synonymous with the Speedmaster. The dot over 90, the Omega signature TACHYMÈTRE, the 3 sub dials, the Co-Axial COSC movement, METAS Certification, Sapphire Crystal front and back. The white Speedmaster Professional comes with the open case back. And of course the Chronograph pushers. No unscrewing required. If you want to start, stop or reset the chronograph, the pushers are tactile and a dream to operate.
The Movement
The Speedmaster Professional is a manual wind Co-Axial METAS calibre 3861 movement. It says in the official specs that it has 50 hrs of power reserve. I find it best to wind it up every day. It is my way of personally connecting with my watches. I like the way you can wind it to full and not over-wind it.
My typical experience with both my white and black speedmasters has been +2-5 secs a day. If I wear it a few days in succession I will typically set and wind it to full before I put it on my wrist. I am someone who likes my time to be set to the exact second. So each day, regardless of the watch I am wearing, I will reset it to the exact time again.
I have a couple of niggles with the movement.
- The crown can feel slightly sharp when winding it. As the crown isn’t very big, it sometimes feels like it takes forever to wind. Obviously this is something to get used to.
- The Power Reserve. At some stage I would love to see Omega increase the power reserve on their flagship watches. These days the standard should be 70 hrs minimum.
The joy of the open case back is the amazing movement in full view. There is something poetic for me to see the beating heart of a watch.
How It Wears
Always a burning question that I always answer with try it on first. All watches are different. Even if the spec sheet says 42mm case, 13mm thick, 47mm lug to lug, fact is that all watches will sit on wrists differently. I have a 6½ inch wrist.
I have a few different 42mm case watches. The Speedmaster wears the best. The design of the bracelet helps as it falls from the lugs. This is why I always try to buy my watches with an OEM bracelet if available. One because you can always swap for a strap later, two it is typically more expensive to buy the bracelet separately, and three the Omega Speedmaster Bracelet tapers from 20mm to 15mm. It also has a micro “comfort” extension which is perfect for a hot summer’s day.
Don’t be fooled into thinking the Speedmaster 42mm Professional will suit all wrists. For me it is the perfect dimension for my wrist, but I like big watches on my wrist. I also think the white makes the dial more pronounced on the wrist. Even nearly 12 months on, my experience with wearing the white dial covers all my needs. I wear it to the office, out with jeans and a nice shirt, out for dinner or casually under a jumper / sleeve.
Most who follow me on Instagram know I also own a Snoopy. Before Snoopy came into my life it was always my first choice. Has the Snoopy replaced it, no, it has just a new purpose.
Final Thoughts
It is difficult to find flaws in what is an iconic watch. I really enjoy the design of the Speedmaster, I like the way it wears on my wrist and I love how Omega keeps to the core principles and design aesthetics with each release.
The one thing I have noticed is the price is creeping up all the time. Many have asked, is the white dial sapphire sandwich Speedmaster Professional worth the money? Like choosing watches to wear, each individual decides what to buy. I will say this, you do get a really nice solid watch for the money steeped in Omega history.
One last important point, it is always worth considering when you buy a mechanical watch, manual wind or automatic, you will at some point have to get it serviced. It is an important consideration as servicing can be expensive.
My closing considerations:
- Did I buy a great watch? yes
- Is it one I plan to keep for years to come? – yes
- Do I still enjoy wearing it? – yes
- If I was buying it now, what advice would I give myself? Try it on
- Is there any reason why I wouldn’t buy it? If I was a black dial Speedmaster purist, I wouldn’t buy the white. However, for me, the white offers a point of difference that I love.
- Would I buy it again – YES!!
If you are a fan of white dial / chronograph watches, the Speedmaster Professional would be in the mix as one of my top choices.
References:
- 5 link bracelet (ref:310.30.42.50.04.001)
- Black rubber strap (ref: 310.32.42.50.04.002)
- Black leather strap (ref: 310.32.42.50.04.001)
Specifications:
- Case: 42mm, 47.5mm lug to lug, 13.2mm
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Between lugs: 20mm
- Dial: White lacquered stepped dial with applied black markers with lume insert and white subdials
- Crystal: Scratch‑resistant sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective treatment inside
- Water Resistance: 5 Bar (50 meters) , push in crown
- Movement: Omega 3861, manual wind
- Power Reserve: 50 hrs
- Strap / Bracelet: Polished and brushed stainless steel 20mm width tapering to 15mm, also available on black perforated leather strap or black rubber strap – both closed by a folding clasp
