4

I take the new Spirit of Big Bang collection for a spin to see just how striking these fresh colourways look in person. From bold Sky Blue to versatile Beige and understated Dark Green, each model brings its own unique personality to the wrist!

Hublot has started the year off with a bang…quite literally. The brand is celebrating arguably their most iconic collection’s 20th anniversary this year, so we knew it was always going to be quite spectacular. Early last month, Hublot unveiled a host of new timepieces, one of which was the new SAXEM green “sapphire” Big Bang, a true masterclass of a timepiece with a blend of different materials to create a unique and eye-catching timepiece. Another release that I personally loved was the new Spirit of Big Bang collection.

For those that my not know, the Spirit of Big Bang collection from Hublot was introduced in 2014 as a bold extension of the brand’s iconic Big Bang series. The Spirit of Big Bang took a different approach to conventional watch design, by adopting a tonneau or barrel-shaped case. The collection retained core design elements there were part of the “Big Bang” collection, such as the six H-shaped screws on the bezel, skeletonized dials, and high-tech material combinations, ensuring it remained unmistakably Hublot despite the case shape shift. This move can be seen as a strategic effort from the brand to expand the brand’s offerings at the time whilst maintaining the “Art of Fusion”, whereby different materials are incorporated into the design to make the watches stand out from the norm.

These new Spirit of Big Bang timepieces are all about this “Art of Fusion.” Hublot is presenting this new collection in three new colours, all made of ceramic. The use of ceramic in the Spirit of Big Bang models certainly isn’t a new thing, with the collection already being crafted with materials that other Big Bang models have undergone, such as titanium, ceramic, King Gold, sapphire, and variations of carbon.

If the different materials these models are crafted from didn’t make the watch stand out, then the complications and dial design surely will. The timepieces in the Spirit of Big Bang collection usually come with the intricate in-house automatic movement HUB4700, which is a modified and modernised version of Zenith’s iconic El Primero movement. Complications have been added to the collection before, with the most appealing (for me personally) being the tourbillon. The Meca 10 model is a variation of the Spirit of Big Bang, creating the “perfect fusion between design and function”, with the stand-out feature of the timepiece being the 10-day power reserve.

First Impressions

I had the chance to see these models prior to their release through the initial press release, and I have to say that the new colours were right down my alley. To me, this collection is one of the highlights of LVMH Watch Week 2025. Each of the three models released has its own “personality” in that, even though it seems to be simple colour change between the three models,. they offer completely different looks and “versatility”.

When I had the chance to see the models up close and in person during LVMH Watch Week in Sydney, I was drawn to these models almost instantly. They were certainly timepieces that I came back to quite often, particularly two of these models (but we’ll touch on that later!). We say on here quite often that pictures don’t do the watch justice, but I feel the initial press photos captured just how beautiful these timepeices really are on the wrist. My initial excitement of seeing these new colours on the Spirit of Big Bang models didn’t waver one bit when the models were on my wrist for the first time!

Spirit of Big Bang Case

The Spirit of Big Bang model was presented in 2014 during Baselworld, as a way for the brand to step outside the norms of traditional watchmaking. At this point, it was already fairly clear that Hublot was no ordinary brand, with them already releasing unique horological creations that certainly took watchmaking to another level, whether you love or hate them. The Spirit of Big Bang allowed the brand to keep the core essence of the Big Bang collection alive, but in a different way, through a barrel-shaped (tonneau) case. This also gave collectors something different. If they wanted a Big Bang model but preferred something different from traditional round case design, this was the go-to collection.

And that’s what I love about the Spirit of Big Bang collection. The identifying codes of the Big Bang remain on the tonneau case, with six titanium H-shaped screws present (two on the sides and one on top and bottom), lugs on either side that allows for quick strap change and an easy-to-use crown made of moulded rubber. As Hublot puts it, “All the identifiers of the Big Bang were present, integrated into a barrel case built like a “sandwich” offering limitless combinations of materials, colours and finishes.”

While the dial and mechanical side of the Spirit of Big Bang have their own appeal, for me the main aesthetic code of this timepiece, especially this new collection, is the case and the colours used to make these timepieces aesthetically stunning! Hublot is offering this new collection in a 42mm x 14.1mm thick case with a choice of three colours, all with microblasted and polished finish: beige, sky blue and dark green. All three colours have their appeal and personality and also offer different versatility in wearability.

The Spirit of Big Bang in beige ceramic looks like a beautiful sand colour, and against my darker skin tone, it sits beautifully. As I was wearing this watch, passers-by told me how well it looked on the wrist, and I certainly have to agree. As mentioned earlier, the case features a sandwich construction, in which, for this model, the top layer is the bezel and lugs in beige ceramic, the middle is black ceramic, and the case back is again beige ceramic. This colour differentiation makes a difference to the timepiece, as I personally don’t think it’ll look quite as good if the whole case is beige. Having the case middle done in black actually allows the colours of the top and bottom case pieces to stand out beautifully, which it certainly does for this new collection.

And it’s these black components on the case, these minor details, that actually make the case very aesthetically appealing. The screws, the straps quick change buttons, the chronograph pushers and the crown are all done in black, which allows the to stand out, but not take the attention away from the beautiful colours of the case.

While I like the beige ceramic colour, sky blue is hands down my favourite in this new collection. If you have read my past articles, you’d know that I’m a massive fan of the sky blue colour. I get weak at the knees when I see this colour on a timepiece (just kidding!), but it is a colour that can certainly make any timepiece “pop”. And just like the beige ceramic model, the black elements of the sky blue model are what give the watch character and make it much more aesthetically pleasing. When it was time to give the timepiece back to Hublot, the watch was really, really hard to get off my wrist…figuratively speaking, of course!

The third variation, the dark green model, is vastly different from the other two. This model was designed to contrast with the other two in the sense that it’s more subtle and subdued. While the watch is still noticeable on the wrist, it won’t, as expected, “pop” like the other two models will. As this is a darker tone of green, the black elements of the timepiece make the timepiece appear darker overall as well. This is a colour that caters for those who want the Spirit of Big Bang with its skeletonised dial, but want it more “toned down”. And that’s perfectly fine. It is the beauty of this new collection, as mentioned earlier, the three colours offer something different to appeal to a wider range of audiences.

Skeletonised Dial

Hublot introduced the skeletonsied dials for the Spirit of Big Bang models right from it’s launch in 2014. The first models were equipped with the movement that Hublot is still using for the chronograph Spirit of Big Bang models, HUB4700, which is a skeletonised version of the Zenith El Primero 400 movement. This allows the open-worked dial that we are accustomed to with these models, showing the intricate mechanics of the timepiece. This design choice further reiterates Hublot’s philosophy of “Art of Fusion”, bringing together the complexity of movement with contemporary watchmaking aesthetics.

This new collection stays true to the original Spirit of Big Bang models, with the open-wroked dial showing the intricate workings of the HUB4700 movement. The dials feature a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock and a constant seconds counter at 9 o’clock. These sub-counters are nicely colour-matched to the colours of the case for each timepiece, further enhancing the aesthetic appeal of each model.

The beige and sky blue colours catches the eye in a beautiful manner, and stands out against the movement in the background. This allows dial readability to still be crisp and not be effected by the skeletonised movement. The hour indices and hands are filled with SuperLumi-Nova and colour-coded with the timepiece’s respective colour, which, again, for the beige and sky blue models stick out nicely. As mentioned earlier, what I like in particular about these dials is the intricate mechanisms you see in the background draws the eye to the complexity of the watches, while the colored counters, hands and indices provide the finishing touch to make a complete package of “complexity meets aesthetics”.

As we have touched on already, the green dial offers a completely different aesthetic to the other two models. The deal is no different as the dark green colour is a lot more subdued, especially with the “darker” aesthetics of the open-worked movement in the background. This model will appeal to those who like the all-black timepieces, where the hands and dial are almost colour-matched to each other. Personally I have to say that I’m not a fan of this aesthetic, as it makes it hard to read the dial and time, especially even more-so now that we have a skeletonised dial.

In saying that however, what this dark green dial does offer compared to the other two is that you get to see more of the movement more clearly! With the coloured counters, the movement mechanics are as prominent in the background, so when you then have a colour that blends in closely with the darker aesthetics of the movement, it allows the colour elements to be the centre of attention.

One of the standout elements of these openworked dials is the visibility of the skeletonized date wheel, which elegantly circles the outer edge of the movement. Rather than being hidden beneath the dial, the date mechanism is fully integrated into the design, adding depth and reinforcing the mechanical aesthetic. The date window itself is positioned between the 4 and 5 o’clock markers, allowing for a seamless yet distinctive display. This approach not only enhances legibility but also serves as a constant reminder of the intricate craftsmanship within the Spirit of Big Bang collection.

HUB4700 Movement

When it comes to the mechanical side of these new timepieces, not much as changed in terms of the movement. Hublot is staying with the tried and tested HUB4700 calibre movement. This movement is a modfied version of the legendary Zenith El Primero 400, one of the most famous automatic chronograph calibres in watchmaking history.

The El Primero 400 was the first mechanical chronograph movement that was able to operate at a high-frequency of 5Hz (36,000 VpH), allowing for a 1/10th of a second accuracy. Hublot is retaining this accuracy with the HUB4700 movement, however, the brand has adopted a silicon regualting organ for this completely skeletonised version of the movement.

The use of a silicon regulating organ allows the movement to have enchanged precision through reduced friction and wear on the escape wheel and pallet fork, leading to more consisten performance over time. Silicon is also completely non-magnetic, which ensures the movement is unaffected by everyday magnetic fields. And lastly it improves durability and reliability, as silicon is highly resistant to temperature fluctuations and corrosion.

This reworked HUB4700 movement from Hublot now offers 50 hours of power reserve, while the movement itself is beautifully decorated to suite the avant-garde aesthetic of the Spirit of Big Bang models. The winding rotor on the case back for example, has been reworked to better fit the tonnea shaped case. The rotor is skeletonised, staying in theme with the skeletonised dial, with the Hublot logo being carved into the rotor.

How it Wears

On my 16.5cm wrist, the new Spirit of Big Bang models sit right on the edge of wearability. The tonneau/barrel-shaped case wraps around the wrist comfortably, but its bold presence is certainly undeniable. While it fits well enough, those with smaller wrists may find it pushing the limits in terms of proportions. With that being said, however, the overall design and ergonomic curvature help balance the size of the timepiece, ensuring that the watch doesn’t feel bulky despite its commanding presence.

Speaking of presence, the sky blue and beige colourways make a bold striking impact on the wrist. As mentioned numerous times, these two colours are stunning in person. Both of these colours stand out, but in two very different ways. The sky blue on the wrist is a vibrant and eye-catching colour, drawing attention immediately to the wrist its its lively hue. The beige is slightly more understated, but with that comes more versatility in being able to match with a range of different outfits. The openworked dial further enhances the watch’s dynamic aesthetic, making it an instant conversation starter on the wrist.

The dark green is still an aesthetically beautiful timepiece, even though it doesn’t pop as much as the other two models. The timepiece offers something the other two don’t, and that’s the subtle look. If you want a Spirt of Big Bang on the wrist with some colour but want it to fly under the radar, this is the go-to colour choice!

However, for me, the clear winner is still the Sky Blue model. Whether dressed down with a T-shirt and jeans (as seen in the photos) or paired with a blazer for a more polished look, the watch commands attention in all the right ways. The vibrant blue hue adds an element of individuality, ensuring it remains a statement piece while still exuding Hublot’s signature blend of sportiness and luxury.

One area of the case design that could be improved is the case back construction, particularly the case back plate that forms part of the sandwich-style case assembly. As seen in the photos, the rubber strap doesn’t hug the wrist as snugly as it should, creating a slight gap. While this won’t be an issue for those with larger wrists, it does affect the overall wearability for slimmer wrists like mine.

The issue stems from the case back plate protruding slightly more than necessary, preventing the rubber strap from bending further. As a result, the strap doesn’t contour to the wrist as tightly as it ideally should. This design quirk limits how well the watch sits, especially for those seeking a close, ergonomic fit.

The operation of the crown and chronograph is smooth and hassle-free, with the crown easily accessible without needing to remove the watch from the wrist. This makes quick adjustments effortless, whether it’s setting the time or winding the movement.

The lined, structured rubber straps that come with the collection make for an incredibly comfortable fit. Not only do they provide excellent flexibility, but they’re also perfect for daily wear, especially in our hot Australian climate, where leather straps tend to wear out much faster. The durability and sweat resistance of rubber make it an ideal choice for an everyday luxury sports watch.

While this strap design has been a staple in the Spirit of Big Bang lineup for some time, one detail I particularly appreciate is the black side profile of the rubber strap. When viewed from the side, the black middle section of the case seamlessly extends onto the strap, creating a cohesive, well-integrated look. It’s a small but thoughtful touch that enhances the overall design, reinforcing Hublot’s attention to detail.

Final Thoughts

Hublot’s latest Spirit of Big Bang models bring a fresh, dynamic energy to the collection with the striking new colourways. The sky blue and beige colours stand out in their own distinct ways. The Spirit of Big Bang Sky Blue Ceramic is a bold and vibrant, while the Spirit of Big Bang Beige Ceramic offers understated versatility. The Spirit of Big Bang Dark Green Ceramic may not pop as much, but it delivers a more subtle, refined option for those who prefer a low-profile approach to this stunning timepiece. Regardless of the choice though, I can safely say that each model stays true to Hublot’s “Art of Fusion” philosophy, seamlessly blending cutting-edge design with high-end horology.

From a wearbility standpoint, the timepieces sit well on the wrist, although I personally think that the case back design could be improved further to ensure a snug fit for slimmer wrists, which ultimately allows a wider range of clientele to buy the watch. The lined rubber straps are a highlight as they offer both comfort and practicality, making these timepeices an ideal choice for a daily watch.

From this new three-piece collection, the Spirit of Big Bang Sky Blue Ceramic is the model that stood out the most for me, not only because I love the colour, but also because the watch effortlessely balances sportiness with luxury. Whether dressed down with casual attire or paired with something more formal, it remains an instant conversation starter. With this latest release, Hublot has once again proven why the Spirit of Big Bang continues to be a bold statement in contemporary watchmaking!

References:

• Spirit of Big Bang Sky Blue Ceramic (642.EX.5110.RX)
• Spirit of Big Bang Beige Ceramic (642.CZ.6110.RX)
• Spirit of Big Bang Dark Green Ceramic (642.GX.5210.RX)

Specifications:

• Dimensions: 42mm, 14.1mm thick & 52mm lug-to-lug
• Case Material: Microblasted and Polished ceramic in either Sky Blue, Beige or Dark Green colours.
• Dial: Openworked dial with chronograph counters colour matching case colours.
• Crystal: Sapphire with antireflective coating
• Water resistance: 100m / 10 Bar
• Movement: HUB4700 Self-winding Skeleton Chronograph Movement operating at high-frequency (5Hz / 36,000 VpH)
• Power reserve: 50 hrs
• Strap: Black and light blue/beige/dark green lined structured rubber

Australian Recommended Retail Price: A$40,800 (All three references)

Availability: Each model limited to 200 timepieces. Available now at Hublot Boutiques or online at Hublot.com.au.