Mario C 
When worlds collide, it’s a curious thing – especially when it’s two of the hottest British independent watch brands! The remastered Fears and the ever-popular Studio Underd0g have united to create a new limited edition watch worthy of their respective talents.
As niche as the watch world often is, modern times have made it significantly easier for lovers of the horological arts to connect with one another. This is true for most other obscure interests, sure, but trying to gather engineering enthusiasts of any kind under one roof is an entirely different ball game. Trust me, I know: I don’t think I’ve ever seen any of my engineer friends in one place at the same time.
Nevertheless, any celebration of this beautiful form of mechanical engineering is always welcome in my book! You know the big ones – Watches and Wonders, Geneva Watch Days, etc., but should you find yourself in the United Kingdom I highly suggest you make yourself familiar with the Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers! In short, not only do they strive to champion the qualities of British watchmaking across the world, but they also represent the combined efforts of over 100 brands, some of which are present at their very own British Watchmakers’ Day every year.
It’s at this prestigious occasion that our watch in question comes from: The Gimlet, brought to you by Brighton’s Studio Underd0g and Bristol’s Fears Watch Company. If you’re familiar with my work here at WatchAdvice, you already know that I glaze Studio Underd0g like they’re the LeBron James of British watchmaking, so I’ll make this quick: For five years and counting, Richard Benc’s plucky 2020 startup has long been part of a massive resurgence of interest in microbrand/independent watchmaking. Making a name for themselves through their non-serious and colourful aesthetic, they’ve moved from strength to strength in recent times, especially in their most recent collaboration with venerable independent brand H. Moser & Cie. at Geneva Watch Days 2024.
Related Reading: H. Moser and Studio Underd0g Pair Up For a Passion Project Like No Other (Live Pics)
Fears, on the other hand, has a different story to tell. Founded in 1846 by Edwin Fear, the original rendition of the Bristol watch company spanned over 130 years until pressures from the Quartz Crisis inevitably prompted them to shut down their business. Fears became a brand lost to time until 2016, where Edwin’s great-great-great grandson Nicholas Bowman-Scargill rediscovered his family’s legacy after studying and working in watchmaking. Now, not only does the modern brand stay true to the delicate yet purposeful design of Edwin’s originals, but Fears can confidently say that they remain family-owned, even after all this time!
So, how do you combine the plucky, upbeat nature of Studio Underd0g with the heritage-driven, detail-oriented approach of Fears? Well, it seems that the new, limited edition Gimlet is set to answer that question for both brands! The 38mm x 42mm cushion case of Fears’ Brunswick 38 collection, constructed of stainless steel, has been chosen as the silhouette for this unexpected yet inevitable collaboration. The cushion case in modern-day watchmaking is somewhat of a rarity, so to utilise the shape in a playful collaboration with Studio Underd0g presents an interesting problem. Any unnecessary detailing could potentially come off as campy and childish, but thank goodness they’re up for the challenge! They have decided to draw inspiration from their recent 02SERIES of watches to create a minimalist yet whimsical dial for The Gimlet.
Using a multi-layer dial construction, The Gimlet starts with a pastel lime green gradient – a nod to the British cocktail bearing the same name. The finer details of the dial, such as the numerals and indexes, are all printed atop a 1mm sapphire disc to preserve the integrity and detail of the gradient. However, this belies the true hidden party trick behind The Gimlet, as fans of Studio Underd0g’s 02SERIES may know: When night falls, The Gimlet’s dial lights up brilliantly thanks to the seven layers of lume used to create it!
Finally, for those interested in the mechanics of The Gimlet, you’ll be pleased to know that both brands have elected the use of a manual wind Sellita SW210-1 as the watch’s beating heart. Yeah, it’s not an in-house, but for GBP£1,000 (about AU$2,000) it’s incredible value for the price point! Additionally, both Fears and Studio Underd0g have stated that they both build and regulate all movements in-house prior to final assembly, so you’ll still get the accuracy and reliability that Sellita always brings to the table, plus a little more besides.
My Thoughts
Having recently returned from the United Kingdom, it does bum me out that I wasn’t able to stick around long enough to have a sticky beak into British Watchmakers’ Day 2025. I’ve always been enthusiastic about watch brands from all over the world, but I bet it would’ve felt pretty surreal to witness so many of these micro/independent brands in person – especially considering how much I yap on about them.
Related Reading: Microbrands Are Making Watchmaking Fun Again!
In any case, knowing that the watches exist is oftentimes enough to satiate my unending enthusiasm for all things horology. In The Gimlet’s case, it’s bittersweet: Sweet, because Fears and Studio Underd0g are two brands that are massive proponents in a swell of interest in British watchmaking, and seeing them collaborate is incredibly entertaining; Bitter, because I already know it’s too late to perhaps get one myself – which means it’s probably too late for you, too. The Gimlet is limited to just 200 pieces, and is distributed on a first-come, first-serve basis. They do still have email registrations of interest, which seem highly unlikely to be fulfilled. But hey, you can’t win the lottery if you don’t play, right?
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 38mm case diameter x 42mm lug-to-lug x 12mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Dial: Multi-layered with sapphire and 7 layers of lume
- Water resistance: 100m / 10 Bar
- Movement: Manual wind Sellita SW210-1 movement
- Power reserve: 42 hrs
- Strap: Green leather with steel buckle
