Sameera Gamage 
The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 is a stunning embodiment of luxury and timeless style, drawing its roots from the heritage of the iconic Reference 325 model. In this review, I explore one of the most striking colour combinations to fully appreciate what makes this timepiece stand out.
What We Love
- The black obsidian dial perfectly complements the 18k 5N gold case
- ideally sized to suit even small wrists
- A timeless design that references the original Prortugieser Reference 325.
What We Don’t
- With a case thickness of 12.4mm, the watch’s water resistance of 30m seems too little.
- The lack of a date window may deter those who want a dress watch with this feature.
- Sixty seconds constant sub-counter needs to be a few shades darker to more closely match with the dial.
Overall Score: 8.6 / 10
- Value for Money: 8/10
- Wearability: 9/10
- Design: 8.5/10
- Build Quality: 9/10
The Portugieser line has to be my favourite from IWC Schaffhausen, with its elegant and refined aesthetics complementing the sporty side. Previously, I had the chance to wear and test out the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 42 with the sliver-plated dial, and I certainly enjoyed my time with it! Before I had the chance to do the review, however, I was already a fan of the Automatic 42, especially its bi-counter layout displaying the power reserve and constant seconds.
The IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 on Chamath’s wrist
While the Automatic 40 follows a very similar design to the Automatic 42, it is a very different timepiece entirely. The Automatic 40, for me, is a pure, elegant dress watch. For the newcomers to the world of watches, the Portugieser Automatic 40 was first introduced into the Portugieser line of watches in 2020, with the model getting a fresh new look last year when the whole Portugieser collection was revamped. The Portugieser Automatic 40’s roots can be traced all the way back to 1939 when the first IWC Schaffhausen’s Portugieser Watch was released. So, in a way, while this watch doesn’t have the complications like the other current Portugieser models and is much simpler in design, it is one of the most important timepeices in the Portugieser line.
Related Reading: Our Thoughts On The Elegant IWC Portugieser Automatic 42
The story goes that the watch was originally commissioned by two Portuguese businessmen who wanted a large wristwatch with high precision, similar to that of a marine chronometer. IWC Schaffhausen’s response was the Portugieser, which featured a generously sized case, a clean dial design, and very accurate pocket watch movement. Bar the modern updates over the last eight decades; the Portugieser Automatic has retained the signature look that started with the very first model.
The Portugieser collection that was unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2024 continues the storied legacy of the iconic collection by combining historical design with modern refinements. Drawing inspiration from its illustrious past, the Portugieser Automatic 40 is not only a nod to the brand’s rich heritage but also a forward-looking reinterpretation of one of the most important models in the Portugieser line.
Initial Thoughts
When I was asked which coloured dial I wanted to review in the Portugieser Automatic 40 collection, It was not an easy choice. I’ve already had the pleasure of wearing and reviewing the Portugieser Automatic 42 with the silver-plated dial, so it was down to either the Horizon Blue or Obsidian Black. While all the colours in the newly revamped Portugieser Line are beautiful in their own right, only the Horizon Blue and Obsidian black really stood out to me.
While the Horizon Blue looks good paired with the 18ct white gold case, with the light blue sky tones complementing the shiny allure of the white gold, the 18ct 5N gold case paired with the obsidian black dial is just something else entirely. The two colours contrast nicely, making for a very aesthetically looking timepiece!
Signature Portugieser Case Design
The Portugieser Automatic 40’s case remains unchanged in terms of design from its initial release in 2020. The case measures 40.4mm x 12.4mm with a lug-to-lug distance of 49mm. The case is every bit of luxury and class that you’d expect from a dress watch. While the watch is undoubtedly quite chunky for a dress watch, this doesn’t detract from its wearability at all. In fact, out of all the models in the new Portugieser lineup, the Automatic 40 was the model that fit my slimmer wrists the best.
The case is beautifully crafted with two different finishing techniques. Firstly, we get the horizontal brushed finish, which you see on the side profile of the case. The top surfaces, the case back and the bezel are all done with a polished finish, which gives the timepiece its luxury and elegance factor. As with all timepieces in the brand’s lineup, the crown is adorned with IWC Schaffhausen’s logo. The mirror-like polish gives this timepiece a distinctive, attractive look that truly stands out. The full-black dial, free from any sunburst or metallic finishes, is a subtle backdrop that lets the case’s elegant finish command attention even from afar.
Obsidian Black Dial Design
The obsidian black dial that IWC Schaffhausen has used is, for me, the perfect dial colour to complement the 18K 5N gold case. To be fair, this is the only dial colour that is available with the 18k 5N gold case for the Portugieser Automatic 40mm currently. However, in saying that, unless it was a green dial, no other dial colour, in my opinion, goes as well with gold as the colour black.
The golden-applied Arabic hour indices is perfectly highlighted against the black obsidian dial. As you may know already, the Portugieser line doesn’t feature SuperLumi-Nova on the hour indices or the hands. This makes it all the more important to have an easy, legible dial that can still somewhat be seen even during low-light conditions. I feel like you get just that with the leaf hour and minute hands, along with the applied hours done in gold. The lack of “finish”, as described earlier for the dial, is actually a good thing when it comes to this obsidian black dial. It really does give a perfect contrast, one that you can read the dial from some distance, but it also provides that touch of elegance and class.
The lack of a date window also gives the watch a balanced and well-proportioned look. However, this will be one of the main drawbacks for those who require a date window, especially in office environments that need it. One of the only models in the current Portugieser line that features a date window is the Portugieser Automatic 42. For this model, IWC Schaffhausen has removed the 6 o’clock hour indices instead of the date window, which has the date wheel colour-coded to the dial, allowing it to blend in seamlessly.
However, that would be hard to achieve for this model, with the constant seconds taking space in lieu of the 6 o’clock hour indices. The only place on the dial where a date window would potentially work is to remove the 3 o’clock hour indices and again have it colour-matched to the dial. So you can begin to understand why IWC Schaffhausen has opted for a time-only design for the Portugieser Automatic 40. Not only does it stay faithful to reference 325, the first Portugieser watch, but also gives a much more balanced design.
One aspect of the dial that I’m not personally a fan of is the execution of the 6 o’clock constant seconds sub-dial. While it may not be as prominent in press photos, when I held the watch in my hand, It was quite noticeable that the sub-dial is coloured grey. This, for me, makes it stand out too much from the obsidian black and almost detracts the attention away from it. The obsidian black is the only dial colour where the sub-counters are coloured almost a few shades lighter than they should be. The sub-dials are done in a different shade to the dial colour to make it stand out in a subtle manner; however, overall, they still blend in with the dial. This is not the case with the obsidian dial. The constant seconds counter needs to be a shade or two darker so that it doesn’t detract attention away from the beauty of the obsidian black colour while also being subtle, allowing the sub-counter to be noticeable.
IWC 82200 Calibre Movement
The movement powering the latest series of Portugieser Automatic 40 models is the IWC 82200 calibre. This movement belongs to the IWC-Manufactured 82000 calibre family, which means that it also features what IWC termed as the “highly efficient IWC Pellaton automatic winding system”. What this mechanism does is allow both directional swings of the rotor to power the mainspring.
“The Pellaton winding system is a unique piece of technology and takes its place in our company’s watchmaking legacy along with the perpetual calendar from Kurt Klaus and the Portugieser Minute Repeater.”
Thomas Gäumann – Former Head of In-House Movement Development at IWC Schaffhausen
The components such as the pawls, automatic wheel, and the cam in the IWC 82200 calibre movement are made from ceramic material, which means that they are virtually resistant to wear and tear. The efficiency of the winding system allows the IWC 82200 calibre movement to power the watch for 60 hours of autonomy, while operating at a high-frequency of 4Hz (28,800 VpH).
This time-only model is quite easy to operate by simply pulling out the crown to adjust the time as required. As found through the other models in the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser range, the crown is easy to operate as the knurling gives great grip. The feedback from the crown’s operation is also instantaneous, meaning as you turn the crown to adjust the time, the hands turn immediately as well, unlike some movements where the crown turns slightly more before the hands start to adjust. Matt also found this to be the case when he reviewed the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Chronograph in the beautiful Dune dial.
The Portugieser Automatic 40 also comes with an open case back, which shows the IWC 82200 calibre movement in full view. The skeletonised rotor featuring IWC Schaffhausen’s logo is executed well to show as much of the movement underneath as possible. The movement has been decorated with various finishing techniques, with the most prominent one being the brushed finishing on the skeletonised winding rotor. The main plate also features vertical brushed finishing, while the edges of the movement feature the perlage finishing technique. Collectively, these finishing details not only enhance the movement’s visual allure but also showcase IWC Schaffhausen’s commitment to marrying precision engineering with artistic elegance.
How Does the Portugieser Automatic 40 Wear?
When it comes to the wearing experience of the Portugieser Automatic 40, I have to say that it is as comfortable as it is stylish. Compared to the Portugieser Automatic 42 I had for review, the slightly slimmer case design for this model makes a noticeable difference in wearability.
The perfectly proportioned and ergonomic case design ensures that the watch sits securely on the wrist without causing too much discomfort, especially for slim wrists like mine (16.5cm circumference). One detail I particularly liked was that the lugs didn’t protrude from my wrists. As you can see from the images, the watch hugs the wrist nicely, which means it is comfortable to wear even for extended periods of time.
The leather strap is extremely easy to operate, considering it’s a simple buckle strap! In my previous review of the Portugieser Automatic 42, I found that the deployant clasp design on the leather strap was hard to operate. Unlike the traditional clasp designs that had a simple push button to disengage the clasp, the Automatic 42 model’s clasp required one to disengage it with the fingers manually. There is no such case here with the simple buckle, and you can readily adjust it to how tight you want the watch to sit on the wrist. The downside is, of course the lack of “decoration” on the buckle, such as logos etc. However, I would much rather prefer functionality and ease of use over aesthetic finishing in this case!
Related Reading: Review: Is The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Dune The Watch You Didn’t Know You Wanted?
The Portugieser Automatic 40 is a masterpiece of versatility, designed to offer a comfortable, secure fit that works well across various settings. How well it sits on the wrist, combined with its stunning visual aesthetics, makes it an excellent choice for both business and casual environments. As you can see from the photos, I was in both casual and formal wear, and the timepiece didn’t look out of place in either scenario (more the casual setting, if anything!). Whether you’re heading to a formal boardroom meeting or enjoying a relaxed weekend outing, this timepiece provides a refined accent to any ensemble without overpowering your overall look.
The more time I spent with the watch, the more I knew I made the right choice with the black obsidian dial. Firstly, compared to the other colours, the black and gold colour combination works seamlessly well with a range of outfits, offering great versatility. The 18k 5N gold case just exudes luxury and class, and as I mentioned earlier, the black obsidian dial just adds to the aesthetic of the timepiece without detracting attention, allowing the gold elements of the dial to stand out beautifully.
The only downside I can see to the wearability of this timepiece is the water resistance. Even though its rated to a depth of 30m, I feel that with a case thickness of 12.4mm, IWC Schaffhausen can possibly increase this to 50m or more. While you aren’t exactly going to go swimming in this timepiece, it is more the piece of mind that comes with having that extra “resistance”.
Final Thoughts
There are only a few designs in the world of horology that are timeless. The IWC Portugieser is certainly one of them. IWC Schaffhausen created this iconic timepiece in the 1930s with the release of reference 325, and this modern 2024 update does the watch justice. Keeping the signature design of reference 325 alive while incorporating modern elements such as a refined case, stunning dial colours, and the latest in-house IWC movements make this a truly exceptional timepiece.
The IWC Schaffhausen Automatic 40 bridges the gap between the timeless elegance of the past and the innovative spirit of IWC today. For me, even thought its design may appear more understated and its complications less elaborate than other models in the current Portugieser line, it carries a much more special significance. Directly rooted in the legacy of the reference 325—the very timepiece that launched the iconic Portugieser collection—this model is a living tribute to IWC’s storied heritage, proving that true elegance never needs to shout to be heard.
References: IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 – Obsidian Dial (IW358401)
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 40.4mm, 12.4mm thick & 49mm lug-to-lug
- Case Material: 18k 5N gold with mix of brushed and polished finishing.
- Dial: Black obsidian dial with applied gold hour indices and leaf hour and minute hands.
- Crystal: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
- Water resistance: 30m / 3 Bar
- Movement: IWC-manufactured calibre 82200 beating at 4Hz (28, 800 VpH)
- Power reserve: 60 hrs
- Strap: Black alligator leather with pin buckle
