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Everyone needs a Freak in their lives, one way or another. Horologically speaking, the Le Locle-based brand Ulysse Nardin has you covered with their Freak collection. But how exactly did this cutting-edge watch become one of the leading innovators of the modern watch industry?

The watch is a universally recognisable accessory. From the pocket watches of old to sleek mechanical timepieces, the quartz revolution and even the advent of the smartwatch, it is often cited that there is no more room for the industry to innovate anymore. At the turn of the millennium, however, the legendary watchmakers at Ulysse Nardin decided to challenge that sentiment with an addition to their roster unlike no other: The Freak, an unusually named watch with a set of equally strange quirks. But what motivated the Freak’s creation? How did it propel itself to the forefront of modern watchmaking? And how does a watch with no dial, hands, or crown even function?

No Boundary Left Un-Pushed

Before the Freak, there was only Ulysse Nardin. The son of a watchmaker, the Le Locle native would come to establish the titular watchmaking brand in 1846. Back then, they were known for just one thing: The marine chronometer, invented by John Harrison and later refined by John Arnold, who would later become known for his work at Arnold & Son. 

“Ulysse Nardin, at the time, was known for making very, very accurate marine chronometers and pocket watches. They were among the very best; I mean, to convince the British Navy to use any marine chronometer at the time that wasn’t made in Britain, but in Neuchâtel, you had to be pretty good at what you did!”

Matthieu Haverlan, Managing Director of Ulysse Nardin

Praised for its ability to help calculate longitude at sea, marine chronometers were known for their ruthless accuracy and demanding specifications. However, Ulysse Nardin saw this as less of an obstacle and more of a challenge. He went on to win his first chronometry gold medal in 1862 and push the early boundaries of watchmaking with the palladium hairspring in 1883.

For over a century, they held top billing at the Neuchâtel Observatory, where 77% of the pieces tested for chronometric accuracy came from the brand, and their reputation would soon expand beyond its naval uses. From ocean navigation and conquests to scientific expeditions, and even the Olympic Games, it soon became apparent to the watch industry that if you wanted accuracy, you would go see Ulysse Nardin – or the five generations of Nardin that succeeded his tenure.

However, like all Swiss watch brands of the time, they would soon have to contend with the realities of technological advancement. The height of the Quartz Crisis would see the prospects of Ulysse Nardin – like all other Swiss watch brands of the time – appear grim. When Rolf Schnyder acquired the brand in 1983, he knew that they could not sit on their laurels for chronometric accuracy any longer, especially not during a time when mechanical accuracy was all but moot. They had to evolve or be lost forever like the countless others swept up in the Quartz Crisis.

With the aid of Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, a master watchmaker and formerly a clock restorer for the Vatican, Rolf Schnyder would get to work on completely overhauling the image of Ulysse Nardin. The brand would become both radical and unconventional, and soon the wristwatches coming out of Ulysse Nardin would be not just known for their mechanical accuracy, but for their complexity too. The meeting of minds between Schnyder and Oechslin would be a match made in heaven. Their combined unique creative processes resulted in horological masterpieces unlike any other for the era such as the Astrolabium Galileo Galilei, which entered the brand into the Guinness Book of World Records in 1988; or the San Marco Minute Repeater complete with the first-ever Jacquemart automaton built into a wristwatch.

As the 21st Century came closer, it had become clear that the Quartz Crisis, though a time of great change for Ulysse Nardin, also signalled the brand’s second lease on life. Through the machinations of Schnyder and Oechslin, the Le Locle brand managed to survive what is arguably the darkest era of watchmaking history. With this new innovative spirit in mind, however, it was time to make their presence known truly. 

RELATED READING: Ulysse Nardin & CEO, Patrick Pruniaux Make A Splash At Bondi With The Australian Launch Of The Freak One

No Dial, No Hands, No Crown: No Problem

Enter Carole Forestier-Kasapi. One of the watch world’s pre-eminent modern masterminds, her work has sent shockwaves across the watchmaking world, with her resume including the likes of TAG Heuer, Cartier, Piaget, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Back in 1997, though, she was a CFC watchmaker studying out of CIFOM in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and development manager for APRP (Audemars Piguet, Renaud & Papi). It was during this time that she developed an idea that laid the groundwork for Ulysse Nardin’s greatest innovation yet.

1997 would also see Forestier-Kasapi win the Prix de la Fondation Abraham-Louis Breguet – a watchmaking contest made in celebration of the famous watchmaker’s 250th birthday. Her original design was that of a crownless watch complete with a revolving, skeletonised movement, surrounded by a mainspring that encircled the watch’s periphery. Her win would soon attract the attention of Schnyder, who would buy into her concept and attempt to make it into reality. When Forestier-Kasapi went on to commence her work with Cartier, the onus was on Dr. Oechslin to ensure that her vision became a reality.

While some of Forestier-Kasapi’s prototype’s characteristics remain in the Freak – such as a time-setting rotating bezel and a manual-winding rotating case back – standard production of Forestier-Kasapi’s prototype was fraught with challenges. Not exactly surprising for such a radical concept, I’m sure, so Oechslin was quick to discover that the proto-Freak was as innovative as it was power-hungry: Revolving an entire watch movement took a lot of energy, and Oechslin struggled to make the watch last more than just ten hours. Working tirelessly to determine a viable solution to its many fantastical issues, Oechslin eventually developed three major revisions that defined the Freak as we know it:

First, the position of the barrel was changed – instead of surrounding the movement, the barrel was instead positioned beneath it. Without any obstructions, Oechslin was able to make the barrel of the watch almost as big as the case itself, transforming the paltry 10 hours into a staggering 7 days. The construction of the barrel allowed the barrel cover to double as the rotating baseplate for the rest of the movement, geared to complete a rotation once every twelve hours.

Second, instead of placing hands atop the rotating movement as per Forestier-Kasapi’s prototype, Oechslin opted instead to mount the entire gear train and escapement – the regulating organ of the watch – onto a constantly rotating bridge. Essentially, he had made a carousel tourbillon, rotating once every hour instead of every minute. This resulted in the Freak’s main time-telling system: The entire movement was also the watch, the movement’s barrel was also the hour hand, and the entire gear train/tourbillon was also the minute hand.

Related Reading: The Art of Complications – Tourbillons

Third, Oechslin decided that, despite the Freak not inherently requiring any more mechanical complexity, it should be outfitted with the Dual Direct Escapement. By feeding impulses directly to the escapement (regulating organ) of the watch, it greatly improved both the Freak’s efficiency and mechanical accuracy. 

However, it was the innovative use of silicon that truly put the Dual Direct Escapement on the map. Unlike traditional metal-based escapements, the silicon components were lighter, more durable, more resistant to magnetic fields, and created less friction, further enhancing the effectiveness of the Freak’s new movement. Before the Freak, no one had designed to use silicon in their watches. But now – from Tissot to Frédérique Constant, to Omega, to Rolex, and even Patek Philippe –  the benefits of silicon in watchmaking are far too great to ignore. He did not know it at the time, Oechslin’s wild experimentation resulted in one of the definitive innovations of the modern age. 

Freaking Out

Typically, the names of watches are meant to inspire and tell a story. The Patek Philippe Nautilus, for example, is named after the daring Captain Nemo’s ship in 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea; The TAG Heuer Carrera’s name was chosen for its deep and epic connection with the motorsports world: Even the Casio G-SHOCK is so aptly named for its seemingly endless ability to take all the world could possibly throw at it. These names are meant to enamour the consumer, buying into not only the brand but also the legacy and historical significance behind them.

But when you name a watch the ‘Freak,’ what do you think of? The Ugly Duckling, The Hunchback of Notre Dame, Dumbo, Shrek – all of these characters have at one point in time been referred to by the same term. However, they all triumph in different ways: The Ugly Duckling becomes a beautiful swan; Quasimodo becomes the hero of Paris and saves Esmeralda; Dumbo becomes a star; and Shrek gets Fiona, and eventually Fergus, Farkle, and Felicia. 

Note: The original ending of Hunchback is significantly darker, but the Disney rendition is far better in my opinion.

The Ulysse Nardin Freak, sharing similarly raw and unseemly aesthetics, found itself shunned but later swept up in the jubilation of the watch community. The evolution of the Freak into the modern day is as abrupt and disruptive as the launch of the original, and Ulysse Nardin would find themselves consistently having to innovate a timepiece that had already summited the peak of haute horlogerie.

2001–2005: The First Freaks

Making its debut at Basel World 2001, reception towards the Freak was unsurprisingly mixed. Compared to the trends of the time, the Freak lived up to its name – it was truly hideous. I suppose the manner in which the Freak debuted didn’t exactly help garner any brownie points from the watch community of the time, as the timepiece was accompanied by a band that wore an unsettling set of masks depicting Rolf Schnyder and Ludwig Oechslin.

Still, it’s not like Ulysse Nardin didn’t know this. They had set out to defy all the normal horological conventions, and the debut of the Freak in 2001 was anything but. Initially designed by Raimondo Brenni, the Freak was set in 18k yellow gold and stood at 43mm – gargantuan for the time. It featured a blue dial with gold-toned Arabic numerals and a bezel that was reminiscent of a Coca-Cola bottle cap. This was by design, as you may recall Forestier-Kasapi’s original design called for time adjustment via the turning of the bezel. The bottle cap-like shape allowed for an easy and seamless adjustment, and was a fast-forward demonstration of how the movement rotated within the watch.

The case back was accompanied by square ridges that allowed for the turning of the case back to wind the watch. While the 7-day power reserve is certainly impressive, the immense size of the barrel meant that a traditional crown winding system would simply be impossible. A helpful ‘To Wind’ engraving was on the back to indicate which direction the user needed to turn the case back, and the aforementioned barrel remained visible through the sapphire crystal display back, through a gap in the rear barrel cover. 

However, the Freak ended up with one major flaw: The original Dual Direct Escapement, which worked great in testing, simply did not hold up in practice. Oftentimes, the Freak would begin to freak out itself – constantly malfunctioning and freezing. Thankfully, when the Freak 28,800V/H (known colloquially as the ‘Freak 2) was released in 2005, the new Dual Ulysse Escapement would fix the errors found in the original design. Eventually, it would come to supplant the Dual Direct Escapement even in the 2001 models, as a majority of first-generation Freaks would return to Le Locle to have their escapements replaced. 

2005-2010: Diamonds and Demons

Freak 28,800V/H Diamond Heart

The first major revisions to the Ulysse Nardin Freak came about in the mid to late 2000s by way of the Freak 28,800 V/H Diamond Heart. Equipped with the new Dual Ulysse escapement, the Diamond Heart’s major technological innovation came by way of coating the silicon escapement in synthetic diamonds. This is what gave the Diamond Heart its name, and Ulysse Nardin went to great lengths to make such a thing apparent – such as encasing the Diamond Heart in a platinum case outfitted with a pavé-set diamond bezel and lugs. The diamond-coated silicon escapement of the Diamond Heart greatly improved the Freak’s efficacy, both in terms of reducing friction and improving durability. However, it was still limited by the separation of both components – effectively setting the stage for the next great rendition.

Freak DIAMonSIL

The Freak DIAMonSIL was the eventual result. Introduced in 2007, the DIAMonSIL’s titular new component was a diamond-silicon composite, further eliminating the need for lubricants whilst combining the diamond and silicon for better ease of use. In fact, DIAMonSIL was so successful that Ulysse Nardin to this day still uses it in the production of some modern-day Freak models. However, mass implementation across all of Ulysse Nardin’s silicon components was proven to be nearly impossible due to the immense cost of producing the material.

Freak Diavolo

The final major innovation that came during this period was the Freak Diavolo, which included yet another Freak first: A second hand. Well, not exactly – the Freak Diavolo’s second hand was actually a flying tourbillon affixed to the carousel movement. As the minutes rotated, so did the tourbillon with it. I’ve never seen one in person, so I’m sure this would have either been an absolute wonder to witness or could have potentially given the wearer motion sickness. The Diavolo’s nickname, as opposed to the Diamond Heart, was derived from its design rather than its engineering. Decorated with fiery red accents contrasting the black dial, the rear-facing power reserve indicator also resembled that of two devil horns.

2015-2022: The Certified Freak

Freak Vision

As the Freak finally found its footing, the time finally came to bring the Freak into the modern industry. Ulysse Nardin had thrived through the resurgence of decadent and outrageous watches from the likes of Richard Mille and Franck Müller, so for the Freak to separate itself from its peers was to make it a little less unapproachable. While some improvements came in the form of the FreakLab’s release in 2015 – the first Freak to include a practical but tonally dissonant date window – it was the Freak Vision of 2018 that truly set the stage for the Freak as we know it now. 

The Freak Vision still maintained the crownless, handless visage of Oechslin’s original design, but in a modern package. The entire balance wheel had been recreated in the ultra-light silicium, and the modern skeletonised carousel made for a more contemporary yet still legible aesthetic. Where the Freak Vision differed is through the use of the UN-250, an in-house development that included automatic winding for the first time in the Freak’s history. Not only that, but the UN-250 contained what was called the Grinder Automatic Winding System, which doubled the winding power of the automatic rotor. Not only does the Freak Vision address the original’s challenge of winding via the case back, but it also took the first steps in modernising the entire Freak lineup. 

Freak X

“The Freak, in the beginning, was a modern standalone product; We only made them one at a time. It wasn’t really a collection, so we made it a collection by adding the Freak X – the one with the crown – as our entry level [Freak].”

Matthieu Haverlan, Managing Director of Ulysse Nardin

2019’s Freak X would soon follow, which also used the Grinder System in conjunction with a traditional crown. I understand that a traditional crown isn’t quite revolutionary, nor is an automatic movement. But, considering that Forestier-Kasapi’s and Oechslin’s prototypes included a gargantuan mainspring that couldn’t fit anywhere except the rear of the watch, being able to finally wind and set the watch like a normal timepiece is considered a major achievement in this context. Additionally, the Freak X signalled the first time the Freak had ever been produced as a standard collection in the Ulysse Nardin lineup.

Freak S

IMAGE CAPTION: “The Freak S is the only watch on the market that exists with two escapements powered by an automatic movement. It kind of makes the Freak look like a drone or a spaceship!” – Matthieu Haverlan, Managing Director of Ulysse Nardin

The release of the Freak S in 2022 only furthered the engineering prowess pervasive in Ulysse Nardin’s R&D department. Referred to as a ‘rocket on the wrist,’ this Freak’s UN-251 movement included two 20-degree-inclined balance wheels. Not only was this an industry first  – other watches with dual escapement wheels have only ever been manually wound – It also made the carousel minute hand look like a spaceship ripped directly from science fiction. However, in 2023, the need was felt for what Ulysse Nardin called ‘the great reset.’ 

Freak One

“Using the expertise that’s been developed over centuries and reinventing some watches, and the Freak does that I think very well…Our technology is still progressing a lot, especially in our silicon technology. The new Freak One is superb, it’s the ninth generation of the Freak. I mean we’re basically every 2-3 years bringing novelties out. We brought something very important a couple of years ago called the ‘grinder’, it was the ultimate energy harvesting system, and only the grinder could enable a watch like the Freak to become automatic and we wanted to make the movement slimmer, which it did.”

Patrick Pruniaux, Ulysse Nardin CEO and Co-Owner

The Freak One was the result, a grand demonstration of everything the Le Locle brand had learned over the last two decades. The Grinder Automatic Winding System; The sizeable 9-hour power reserve; The DIAMonSIL escapement: All the technical wizardry and heritage of the last 22 years of the Freak had come together in one 44m package of titanium and gold. At last, the Freak One had become everything that Schnyder and Oechslin had always wanted to be. The Ugly Ducking, upon winning the GPHG’s Iconic Watch Prize in 2023, had finally become a beautiful swan. And they did it all with no hands, no dial, no crown… and no problem.

Related Reading: All the GPHG Winners From Geneva 2023

The Freak of Tomorrow

For as modern, contemporary and rule-breaking as the Freak is, the legacy of Ulysse Nardin’s golden child remains set in stone for ages to come. However, the question still remains: What does the future have in store for the Freak, and Ulysse Nardin in general? Though the Freak One’s ‘full circle’ moment may feel like the ultimate swansong for this horological pariah, Haverlan has shared some different sentiments regarding the next step in the Freak’s evolution. “We want to keep adding freshness and novelties to the Freak collection,” he states. “There are so many people that still don’t know about the Freak – yet – but the focus is needed to keep a point of attention on the brand.”

It would seem, then, that Ulysse Nardin’s current focus remains on the Freak for the foreseeable future, especially in this new wave of social media – where public figures and influencers thrive on ambitious and groundbreaking designs. Everyone is on the search for that ‘next big thing,’ and Haverlan – given his experience as Ulysse Nardin’s former Chief Growth Officer – is confident that the brand’s audacity and technical sophistication can carry it into this new age. “With the watch becoming a fashion icon, public figures like hip-hop artists and so forth want to be seen anywhere they go,” He explains. “They want to be seen wearing the best jewellery, the best fashion. I do believe that social media [for branding] is essential… When you build communities of collectors, you [the brand] must have both an online and an offline presence.”

While this is a sound strategy to capture those figures with vested interests in haute horlogerie, Haverlan wants Ulysse Nardin’s timepieces – primarily the Freak, of course – to expand beyond the confines of the watch community. Given their most recent collaboration with lifestyle brand Gumball 3000, it wouldn’t be remiss to say they are well on their way to captivating plenty of new audience members through a combination of Swiss expertise and cultural relevancy. Commenting on the Gumball 3000 collab, Haverlan said: “The brand got more reach during Gumball 3000 than Watches & Wonders. Five times more engagement, double the visits to the UN website, triple the visits to the product page… We sold 120 of the 150 limited edition pieces to just the drivers in the Gumball 3000 Rally.”

Of course, all of this would be moot if the brand were not to recognise that the youth are the future of what the brand could do next. Says Haverlan, “My mission – our mission – is to fuel the passion for watchmaking for the younger generation. Of course, that starts with the Freak, but the benefit of being an older watch brand is the diversity of our watch collections. That way, it’s almost a certainty that new customers walk away with our timepieces.” He continues with an anecdote that also underscores his aforementioned focus on social media:

“I recently met with two young customers – one from Geneva, one from London, both about seventeen years old. They had recognised Ulysse Nardin from social media, and ended up buying their first-ever luxury watches from us.”

Final Thoughts

A visionary watch made real from the minds of exceptional professionals, the Ulysse Nardin Freak was born out of bold experimentation and the push for horology’s reinvention. Thanks to the efforts of Schynder, Oechslin, Forestier-Kasapi, and countless others, Ulysse Nardin was finally able to do just that. The Freak was the major push they needed to break out of the suffering endured throughout the Quartz Crisis, transcending its initial shock value to become one of the most revered examples of haute horlogerie.

Despite its outward nature as a decadent and radical stunt piece, the Freak had become a legend for an entirely different reason. Merging the art and science of watchmaking into one single form was admirable in itself, but Oechslin’s use of silicon proved to be a masterstroke, redefining the entire modern watch industry as we know it. Today, almost all brands use some form of silicon in their watchmaking – but were it not for the Freak (and by extension Oechslin), perhaps this may have never been discovered.

So, what is the Freak? Of course, it’s not your average wristwatch, but instead, a radical concept that became an enduring legend. Defying conventions, surpassing boundaries, and challenging traditions, the Freak remains an inspiration to any watchmaker pursuing potentially groundbreaking achievements in the industry – and as a promise of things still to come.

“I want Ulysse Nardin to become the most badass luxury watch brand, to be cool, to be sexy; But I also want it to be polarising. I don’t want people to talk about Ulysse Nardin and all they have to say is ‘Oh, Ulysse Nardin, their watches are nice.’ I want them to say ‘wow, I wish I had a Freak,’ for instance, or say ‘Ulysse Nardin? No thanks, it’s not for me.”

Matthieu Haverlan, Managing Director for Ulysse Nardin

While only relatively young in watch terms, Ulysse Nardin’s Freak has already secured its place in history. The unflinching catalyst of watchmaking’s modern movement, in two decades has achieved more than some brands have been able to accomplish in their entire lifetime. Though its story has only just gotten started, the Freak is a trailblazer in the industry, and its legacy will certainly inspire many watchmakers in the lifetimes ahead.