Sameera Gamage 
Daniel Roth is an independent watchmaker who has a relatively short history, but it’s one that is filled with innovation and iconic timepieces. The brand is often mentioned alongside other great independent watchmakers such as George Daniels, F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour.
Daniel Roth started his career in watchmaking with training at none other than Audemars Piguet. He was quickly recruited by Breguet to lead the re-development of the brand in 1976, when he re-established the brand in Switzerland by opening its first workshop in Le Brassus. In 1988, Daniel Roth left the steady work of a major brand to begin an eponymous brand. The now expert watchmaker would set the bar for independent watchmaking quite high right away, by starting to work on a wrist-worn Tourbillon housed in a unique double-ellipse case. This design would eventually go on to become a signature look of Daniel Roth timepieces.
The concept of an ultra-thin dress watch was something that always intrigued Mr. Daniel Roth. He officially created his brand, Daniel Roth, in 1989, and the first-ever timepiece released was the Tourbillon C187. One year later, Mr. Roth would lean into his fascination with ultra-thin dress pieces and would release the original Extra Plat. Even though Daniel Roth released some impressive works of horology, the brand struggled to maintain its identity and market position. LVMH stepped in in 2011 and took the brand under its wing, not only to strengthen its presence in the world of high-end watchmaking but also to ensure that Daniel Roth survives and keeps producing timepieces the world of horology loves so much.
Now, as part of Daniel Roth’s releases for LVMH Watch Week, the brand is bringing back an icon into modern-day watchmaking with the Extra Plat Souscription. Developed and produced at Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps, this latest model follows the design template that the Tourbillon Souscription established when it was released in 2024. The Extra Plat Souscription is faithful to the original model of the 1990s in both style and craft; however, it features an entirely new set of mechanics, especially the movement, which has been developed entirely new for the watch.
“Having known Daniel for many years, we wanted to stay true to his philosophy and vision of watchmaking. The Extra Plat Souscription is a simple watch with just two hands, but executed to the highest aesthetic and technical standards, just as Daniel would have done, but done in-house at the manufacture.”
Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, the founders of La Fabrique du Temps.
The Extra Plat Souscription is presented in a 38.6mm x 35.5mm 18k yellow gold case with a thickness of just 7.70mm. It certainly does seem like Mr. Daniel Roth stayed true to his vision of wanting to create an ultra-thin dress watch, all the while still keeping to the design of his iconic original Extra Plat. The reason why this watch is only 7.70mm thick is thanks to the ultra-thin DR002 movement inside, which measures at only 3.1mm!
While the case design stays true to the original 1990s Extra Plat model, it has been reworked to keep with the modern design and visual codes of Daniel Roth. The 18k yellow gold case retains the iconic double ellipse form but with a perfectly centred Gordon along its outline for a balanced profile. At the same time, the lugs have been gently rounded for visual coherence and arched downwards for superior ergonomics.
Another aspect that makes this timepiece stand out from the crowd is the beautifully finished dial. The dial is decorated through the long revered guilloche technique. The brand states that “The clou de Paris pattern on the dial base is engine turned on a hand-operated straight-line engine dating to circa 1935, while the filet sauté border on both the base and chapter ring is applied with a machine from around 1850. Notably, both dial components are turned by a single artisan in-house at La Fabrique du Temps in a painstaking process that requires 10 hours of work per dial just for the guillochage.”
La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton’s second movement for Daniel Roth (the first being the DR001 for Tourbillon Souscription) is the DR002 calibre. While the DR002 movement carries a similar visual style to the DR001, it has been completely redeveloped from the ground up to suit the Extra Plat Souscription. The movement operates at 4hz (28,800 VpH), with the 4 Hz balance wheel being free-sprung and made up of four arms, each with a variable inertia weight for regulation. This ensures superior and stable timekeeping over prolonged periods. The single large mainspring delivers a 65-hour power reserve.
Final Thoughts
The Extra Plat Souscription stays true to the original styling of the 1990s Daniel Roth Extra Plat while having the design refined for a modern update. The entirely new movement crafted by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton carries Daniel Roth into a new era, one that embodies the perfect balance between its storied heritage and contemporary innovation.
With the impeccable craftsmanship from the watchmakers at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, a timeless design with now modern refinements makes the Extra Plat Souscription more than a timepiece. For collectors and enthusiasts alike, it marks an extraordinary revival of a legend reimagined for the present day.
References: DANIEL ROTH Extra Plat Souscription (DBBE01A1)
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 38.6mm x 35.5mm x 7.70mm thick case
- Case Material: Yellow Gold 3N
- Dial: Clou de Paris guilloche pattern manufactured in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Blue font for dial inscriptions, along with blued hands and indices.
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
- Water resistance: 30m / 3 Bar
- Movement: Calibre DR002 operation @ 4Hz (28,800 VpH)
- Power reserve: 65 hours
- Strap: Brown calfskin leather
