Matt Clymo 
To kick off the Maison’s 270 Birthday, Vacheron Constantin has launched 2025 with a new Historiques 222 in steel, and it seems to be a hit already!
2025 is a year of celebrations for many brands and many watch models. Perhaps the biggest is Vacheron Constantin which is celebrating it’s 270th birthday, and not only is Vacheron Constantin one of the oldest watch brands in the world, but more importantly, it’s the oldest continually operating brand. Essentially, Vacheron Constantin has been in business since 1755 without any breaks, hiatuses, or shut downs like other long-term brands have had in their history. So in this sense, it makes Vacheron Constantin unique, and somewhat special.
We all knew that 2025 would be a big year for the brand, and it seems that last night, they showed that they’re ready and gearing up with the launch of a new steel version of the Historiques 222, complimenting the full gold model they brought out in 2022 to much fanfare and success. We even saw Brad Pit casually sporting one on his wrist. From a quick glance at the online forums and social media, we can see that the new steel variant seems to be going down a treat, with lots of coverage and people already putting their names down for one!
But, before we get into the details of the watch, let’s take a step back and look at the history of the 222. In 1977, Vacheron Constantin engaged designer, Jorg Hysek, to come up with a model that bridged the gap between sports and formal to celebrate the brand’s 222nd anniversary (Hence the name, 222). This was a big step for Vacheron Constantin as it was completely different to their lineup at the time. However, it was important as many other brands had jumped on the trends of the 1970s with integrated sports watches, such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, IWC’s Ingenieur and Baume et Mercier’s Riviera to name a few. The Piaget Polo was 2 more years off, so this was an important step for Vacheron Constantin to produce such a piece.
Not only was this new model in 1977 groundbreaking for the brand, but it was also somewhat groundbreaking because it housed the world’s thinnest full-rotor automatic movement for its day. The ultra-thin Calibre 1120 measured a mere 3.05 mm, meaning the watch measured in at just 7mm thick for the steel model. Cased in a 37mm diameter case, it meant this was a watch that blended style and wearability and could transition across both sports and dressier pieces.
So, in 2022, Vacheron Constantin brought out the full gold recreation of the 222 as part of their Historiques collection, to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the watch, and this year, being a major milestone birthday, Vacheron Constantin has heard the collectors call and brought out the steel 222 to accompany the gold. And like the gold, they have done a great job in recreating the vintage model from 1977, almost to the letter, but with some minor improvements.
The case remains a svelte 37mm in diameter, true to the original, and only marginally thicker at 7.95mm, thanks to the sapphire case back as well as the slightly thicker new movement – the Calibre 2455/2. It’s a beautiful-looking movement too, with the finishing you would expect to see from Vacheron, however, while beating at 4Hz, it has a fairly less than standard 40-hour power reserve. What it lacks in power, it makes up for in aesthetics with a 22k gold rotor engraved with the original 222 logo and also fluted near the edges, mimicking the bezel.
Vacheron has made subtle improvements to the dial as well. The date window has been moved slightly to the left, leaving the minutes track clean and unhindered. The Super-LumiNova is off-white, which is a nod to the hue of tritium used in the vintage model and on the bracelet, Vacheron has also changed the pins so they are now hidden.
Vacheron has given the case and bracelet an almost three-dimensional brushed look, which in certain light settings has a depth to it that you don’t see too often on other watches. This keeps it more in the ‘sports watch’ realm, but with areas of high polishing on the case and bracelet link edges as well as selected bezel elements, it gives this a more refined look. The Maltese cross on the lower right side of the case stands out in plated 18k yellow gold, which is stamped into the case. Another nod to the 1977 recreation.
“Since the turn of the century, Vacheron Constantin has taken each decade anniversary as an opportunity to talk about its history and the values handed down through the centuries. These milestone anniversaries celebrate a philosophy that combines mechanical research and innovation with a deep commitment to craft and a stylistic approach that is both progressive and highly respectful of classical elegance.”
Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director, Vacheron Constantin
Initial Thoughts
As mentioned, the Vacheron Historiques 222 has had perhaps the most commentary and chatter about it out of any other model launched in the last few years. The gold 222 was the talk of the town on its release, and in less than 24 hours after its release, it seems that the steel model is no less popular, and it’s easy to understand why. Vintage pieces, or at least vintage revivals are making a comeback as they give collectors all the benefits of vintage size and style, but with all the modern materials and technology that goes into watches today. They’re the best of both worlds essentially.
Being steel, you’re not looking at the hefty price tag that comes with gold watches, especially since the price of gold has risen over this past year. The yellow gold 222 will set you back A$123,000, where as the steel has been priced in line with other higher-end sports steel watches from the Holy Trinity – at A$53,500, basically A$70,000 less. Yes, it still is a large sum of money, let’s face it, but so are most watches these days for the average Joe. My Father still doesn’t understand why you would pay anything more than a few hundred dollars for a watch, but he, unlike me, is potentially more sensible, but also isn’t into and doesn’t understand watches like you and I do. However, back to my point, for a Vacheron Constantin Historiques, with the craftsmanship, and historical value, not to mention how limited these will be to get (not limited editions, but only a certain amount made each year), then the A$53,500 seems reasonable when taking all that into account.
Reference: 4200H/222A-B934
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 37mm x 7.95mm thick
- Case Material: Vertically brushed and polished steel with 18K yellow gold Maltese cross placed at 5 o’clock
- Case back: Brushed and polished steel with sapphire crystal display
- Dial: Matte blue with white gold polished Maltese cross applied to the dial, white gold hour-markers and hands highlighted with Super-LumiNova® – off-white during the day and lime green at night
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
- Water resistance: 50m / 5bar
- Movement: Calibre 2455/2 automatic movement beating at 4Hz / 28,800 VpH with a 22K 3N yellow gold rotor.
- Power reserve: 40 Hours
- Bracelet: Stainless steel, vertical satin finished with a stainless steel triple-blade folding clasp & polished half Maltese cross-shaped
