In this article, we take a look back at our Watch Education series, The Legacy Of Iconic Watch Designs, where we explored some of the most emblematic watches in the industry and how they became iconic in their own right.
Iconic watches are so for a reason. They are the watches that even if you’re not super into watches, you’ll know their names and at a glance, recognise their shape and design. These are pieces that have transcended trends and fads, and become timeless, having a design DNA that helps make them both classic, yet modern. As the year draws to a close, we’re looking back at some of these watch icons today, taking a trip back through the articles and why we here at Watch Advice chose them to be part of our Legacy Of Iconic Watch Designs this year. For those those who have some time off these holidays, and want to learn more about where these now famous watches came from, we’ve collated these in one place for your reading pleasure!
The TAG Heuer Carrera
Our resident TAG Heuer Expert, Mario, embarked on this rabbit hole of a topic, and for good reason. TAG Heuer has a rich history, and back when it was just Heuer, under the leadership and ownership of the Heuer family, most notably Jack Heuer, several TAG Heuer Icons were born. While you can argue the virtues of which TAG Heuer model is the most iconic, you just can’t go past the Carrera.
In this article, Mario tackles the reasons the TAG Heuer Carrera became an icon in it’s own right, and how this watch with such strong ties to motor sport is now the jewel in the TAG Heuer crown. From the inception of the orginal Carrera in 1963 by a young Jack Heuer after he witnessed the gruelling road race, the Carrera Panamericana, through to the modern day Glassbox versions that have taken the TAG Heuer Carrera back to it’s roots, the Carrera has seen a lot over the last 60 years, and the story is just beginning again!
The IWC Portugieser
It’s been the year of the Portugieser for the Schaffhausen brand. At Watches & Wonders 2024, IWC came out of the blocks strong with a new line up of Portugieser models in what was possibly the most well rounded collection of the show. Fresh new colourways, steel and precious metal variants and the show stopping, now world record holding Portugieser Perpetual Calendar. Because of this, we just had to take a deep dive in the watches history, and that’s what Sam did.
The article takes a look back into a history now spanning almost almost 90 years, from how the Portugieser got its name thanks to a wholesaler from Lisbon, Portugal who had a need to fill, through to modern times, where the Portugieser became IWC’s model of choice when it came to the Perpetual Calendar, housing the famous Kurt Klaus movement and the world record breaking Portugieser Eternal Calendar released in 2024. It’s been a journey, and it would seem the iconic Portugieser is still gaining momentum.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is so iconic, we needed to break this story into to parts. The Royal Oak has risen to such a level of iconic status that it’s become one of the most sought-after models to add to one’s collection, and as a result, buying one at retail is incredibly hard and prices on the secondary market are well into 2-3x retail in some instances as a result.
In part one, we look into the birth of the Royal Oak, and how in 1970, Carlo de Marchi, Charles Bauty and Charles Dorot who were distribution agents of Audemars Piguet challenge George Golay to create a new stainless steel sports watch that would represent the tastes of the time. And we all know who came to the rescue! In part two, we follow the journey of the Royal Oak and its evolution to the modern day power house that it is for Audemars Piguet, and the introduction of new metals, complications and the concepts that the brand is bringing to market today.
Cartier Santos
One could argue that there is no more iconic watch than the Santos de Cartier, after all, it was essentially the worlds first wristwatch and pilots watch. Developed for Brazilian adventurer and aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904 to help him with his flying pursuits at a time when the race to conquer the air was in full flight (pun intended!). The watch would accompany Alberto Santos-Dumont on his successful flights in the Demoiselle No.19 in 1907, flying 200m, and then in 1909 with the Demoiselle No.20, would be more successful, becoming the worlds first true Ultralight aircraft.
Since then, the Santos has evolved to be a true icon of the watch world, being seen on royalty, celebrities and fashionistas all around the world. The Santos Dumont as part of the Santos family is a tribute to the original piece created by Louis-Joseph Cartier for his adventurer friend, and throughout this article, we explore the evolution of the Santos over the past 120 years.
A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1
A. Lange & Söhne is both a modern day and historic story. When you first think of A. Lange & Söhne, you think of an old brand, one that has been around since the mid 1800s, but there is a break in the German brand’s story thanks to World War II and the nationalisation of the brand, which like many German brands at the time, unfortunately saw it’s demise. But, thanks to Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s great grandson, Walter Lange and business partner, Günther Blümlein, the brand was re-born after the fall of the Berlin Wall, and in 1994, just four years after the re-establishment of A. Lange & Söhne, the Lange 1 was born.
While it has only been a short 30 years in production, we take a look at the different iterations of the Lange 1, the iconic design codes of the asymmetrical dial, outsized date and stunning old-world craftsmanship that’s been restored to not only make some of the most sublimely decorated movements in the watch world, but also put German watchmaking back on the map.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
So, we technically haven’t done an article on the icon that is the Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s classic piece that was created in 1931 to assist polo players by flipping the watch case over to protect it from flying balls and stray mallets. But, we thought who better to tell this story than Jaeger-LeCoultre themselves, which is what they did earlier in the year in Sydney with their travelling Reverso Stories exhibition in Sydney.
Our photo report takes you on a journey through the exhibition, which in turn takes you on a journey with Jaeger-LeCoultre and the history of the Reverso. From some of the historic pieces created in the 1930s to the more modern and high complications Jaeger-LeCoultre have been able to incorporate into the now famous case.
Iconic Case Shapes
While there are some great stories with individual watch brands and their iconic pieces, it would be remiss of us to not look at some of the most iconic case shapes that have been created throughout history. Some of these case shapes are from the icons themselves, such as the Santos de Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso or the TAG Heuer Monaco, and others are more left of centre, those Avant-Garde shapes from brands like Hublot, Urwerk and MB&F.
Given the sheer number of now widely used case shapes, we’ve had to split this series into two parts. Part One focuses on some of the more common shapes you find in watches, such as round, square and rectangles, where as Part Two takes a look at more unusual shapes, like those asymmetrical cases and the more Avant-Garde.
