269

A hundred years, countless innovations: Seiko’s legacy of precision and excellence.

In 2024, we celebrated the incredible 100-year Journey of Seiko. What officially started in 1924 as humble beginnings has now turned into a global empire. When you think of the titans of horology, Seiko stands out as a pioneer who blends heritage, innovation, and affordability. But Seiko is simply more than just a watchmaker; they are a symbol of Japan’s persistent pursuit of perfection and craftsmanship.

Seiko takes its inspiration from the Japanese concepts of “Takumi” (master craftsmanship) and “Monozukuri” (the art of making things). By upholding these ideologies over the last century, Seiko has been able to build a legacy on quality, reliability and creativity. By creating beautiful timepieces that are reliable and affordable, the brand has been able to build a worldwide cult following. From the very first watch to bearing the “Seiko” name in 1924, the brand has been living with the belief that exceptional timepeices should not just be exclusive to the elite but be available to everyone.

---

“Always One Step Ahead of The Rest”
Seiko Philosophy

---

One of the core principles of Seiko is “Always one step ahead of the rest”. This mantra has been evident throughout Seiko’s history, from being the first watchmaker in Japan to release a wristwatch to being the brand that started the quartz revolution in 1969 and essentially flipped the whole mechanical watch market upside down.

The Birth of Grand Seiko and King Seiko

Seiko’s commitment to pushing boundaries and “Always one step ahead of the rest” doesn’t just stop within the brand. In the mid-20th century, Seiko began to set its sights on creating highly technical masterpieces that could rival the mechanical proficiency and craftsmanship of the Swiss watch market’s finest watches. This vision ultimately led to the creation of two sister brands within the same Seiko umbrella: Grand Seiko and King Seiko.

At the time of creating these companies, the goals of both sister brands were clear. Grand Seiko was to create ambitious timepeices, ones that were precise, durable and be some of the most beautifully designed watches in the world. King Seiko, with the same ambitions, was to offer a more affordable route to the customer with the same end goal in mind.

Both “sub” brands gained worldwide popularity, with Grand Seiko gaining recognition for creating timepieces with innovative movements and captivating designs. The team at Grand Seiko almost operated as a separate entity from Seiko, with them being solely focused on elevating watchmaking standards. The team developed groundbreaking movements, such as the high-accuracy Hi-Beat mechanical movements and the revolutionary Spring Drive, bringing together the power of quartz and the complexity of mechanical technologies.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg)

^{The Seiko King Seiko KS1969 Limited Edition released this year to commemorate Seiko’s 100-year anniversary!}

Even though King Seiko was forgotten for a period of time in Seiko’s history, the brand was recently brought it back to life, much to the satisfaction of watch enthusiasts and Seiko fans worldwide. At the time of inception, King Seiko was intended to create high-quality and accurate timepieces that would be marketed on a larger consumer scale. Unfortunately, in 1970, with the rise of quarts watches due to the quartz crisis, the King Seiko factory was shut down as there was essentially no demand for two high-end mechanical sister brands to Seiko. However, King Seiko’s history, thankfully, didn’t end there. In 2021, the brand released a few limited edition timepieces to test the waters, and with the demand and popularity of the watches, is now a permanent collection in Seiko’s catalogue.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg)

^{Seiko’s 100th Anniversary Special Edition Prospex Diver Ref. SPB455J}

It’s not always about pushing boundaries, either. Seiko has deep-rooted values of tradition and harmony, which are key aspects of Japanese culture. Seiko blends modern technology with artisanal craftsmanship, whether through the meticulous Zaratsu polishing technique or, as we have seen more recently, beautiful dials inspired by the remarkable Japanese landscapes and scenery. We have also seen this through many of Seiko’s innovations and artistry, coming together to create timepieces that are simply not just for telling time but also to reflect on the culture and beauty that resides in Japan.

Current Seiko Collections

Seiko currently has eight collections that cater to a wide range of lifestyles and preferences. Each collection has a unique story behind it, with some collections leaving a mark in the world of horology for their innovation or bold designs.

Credor

The Credor series of watches from Seiko was first introduced in 1974, representing the pinnacle of artisinal watchmaking for Seiko. The Credor stood out in Seiko’s collections as it was specifically designed for those who value elegance and tradition. The dials are usually simple and easily legible, come with intricate hand engravings and ultra-thin movements, and are also presented on precious metals such as gold and platinum.

Prospex

One of Seiko’s most iconic collections is the Prospex series. Prospex was first launched in 1965, with the “collection” featuring Japan’s first ever dive watch. Prospex (short for Professional Specification) is, as you may have guessed, specifically designed for professional instruments for divers, pilots and explorers. Designed to battle extreme conditions, the timepieces usually feature rugged designs along with innovative features.

Presage

Compared to Seiko’s other collections, the Presage has a short history, only being introduced in 2016. The Presage series is Seiko’s tribute to the brand’s culture and heritage, paying homage to traditional Japanese craftsmanship and aesthetic design. The Presage collection features hand-crafted dials in enamel and porcelain alongside other materials, catering to those who are after an elegant timepiece that combines artistry along with mechanical prowess.

Astron

The watch that set the world of horology alight and started the Quartz crisis craze. The Astron was first released in 1969 as the world’s first quartz watch. Seiko then pushed the boundaries once again with this timepiece, as in 2012, the brand re-released the Astron as the first GPS solar-powered watch. The timepiece offers unmatched precision as it connects to GPS satellites to adjust time and location automatically, all the while being powered by light.

King Seiko

King Seiko, as mentioned earlier, was a separate collection started alongside the sister brand Grand Seiko to counter the high-precision luxury timepieces coming out of the Swiss watch market. The King Seiko was originally introduced in 1961 which, after a brief stint, made way for Grand Seiko to be the main “high-end” Japanese watch manufacturer. However, the collection was revived in 2021 and since then is now part of the main Seiko collection.

Seiko 5 Sports

The Seiko 5 Sports was first released in 1963. It showcases Seiko’s commitment to affordability and reliability. The collection was named “5 Sports” for the watch’s five key attributes: automatic movement, day or date display, water resistance, recessed crown and the case’s durability. The timepiece is great for those who prefer stylish and durable watches at a budget price!

Coutura

Coutura is Seiko’s contemporary collection that combines modern styling and advanced technology. The Coutura collection features a variety of different designs, ranging from time and date models with simple and elegant styling to solar-powered chronograph timepieces with more “out there” designs.

Conceptual

The Conceptual collection from Seiko offers buyers a diverse range of designs all the while being very accessible. The timepieces in the Conceptual collection offer different styles to suit everyday wearers. Unlike Seiko’s other major lines, Conceptual doesn’t feature a singular characteristic design, with the collection featuring mixed designs such as date and time models, chronographs, rectangular watches, square watches, watches with integrated bracelets, and crystal stone set watches.

Key Moments In Seiko’s 100-year Historical Timeline

1881 – Kintaro Hattori Establishes K. Hattori

Kintaro Hattori, at just 21 years old, opened a small shop in Tokyo named K. Hattori, selling and repairing watches and clocks. His business expands rapidly as he earns the trust of foreign trading companies. His entrepreneurial vision laid the foundation for Seiko, which would go on to become a global horological powerhouse. Hattori’s motto of “Always one step ahead of the rest” has become Seiko’s guiding principle even today.

1892 – Kinataro Hattori Renames Brand To Seikosha

Eleven years after Kinataro Hattori first set up shop in 1881, he expanded the business to manufacturing clocks and founded a factory which he named Seikosha. Seikosha translates to “House of Exquisite Workmanship” or “House of Precision”. K.Hattori remained the parent company’s name, with Seikosha becoming the manufacturing section of the brand. “K. Hattori” continued to serve as the parent company’s name until it was officially renamed Seiko Holdings Corporation in 1990.

1913 – Kintaro Hattori Introduces Japan’s First Wristwatch

In 1913, Kintaro Hattori’s company released the first-ever wristwatch made in Japan. The timepiece, named the Laurel, marked the transition from clockmaking to wristwatches within the Asian market. When the Laurel was first released, it featured a hand-wound movement that was housed in a compact case.

1923 – Great Kanto Earthquake

In 1923, Seiko, alongside many other major businesses, was hit with a massive setback due to the Great Kanto Earthquake that occurred in September. Seiko lost almost all of its factories and stores to the earthquake. Staying true to their clientele, however, Seiko replaced all watches that were held for repair and destroyed in the disaster with brand-new timepieces free of charge.

1924 – First Wristwatch To Bear “Seiko” Name

1924 is seen as Seiko’s “official” birth year, as this is the year in which the first wristwatch from Kintaro Hattori would bear the “Seiko” name on the dial. This was also the year in which the Siekosha name was shortened to Seiko, translating to exquisite” or “success” in Japanese. The watch itself takes after the Laurel from 1913, with some modifications, including strap changes and a more refined design on the dial. This watch represented a shift toward creating accessible wristwatches for the growing market. It marked the beginning of Seiko’s global journey in watchmaking.

1956 – Seiko Marvel

In 1956, Seiko launched the “Marvel” timepieces, a watch aimed at creating a highly productive, accurate, and beautiful watch. The Marvel came with high design quality, which included large legible hands and indices. The timepieces became a major hit in the 1960s, gaining popularity quickly. Due to this increased demand, Seiko created other lines based on the Marvel, such as the high-end Lord Marvel and the Gyro Marvel.

1959 – Seiko Laurel Alpinist

With mountain hiking and exploration gaining popularity, Seiko released a timepiece dedicated to mountaineers called the Seiko Laurel Alpinist. This was Seiko’s first ever purpose-built sports timepiece, created for professionals who needed a durable, reliable timepiece in challenging environments. The timepiece featured key attributes such as water resistance, shock resistance and a clean, easy-to-read dial, all vital criteria for explorers making their way into the Japanese Alps.

1960 – Birth of Grand Seiko

As mentioned earlier in this article, Seiko created “sister” brands to compete against the Swiss watchmaker giants. These brands would create a more higher-end luxury product, with quality, precision and mechanical complexity all increased from Seiko’s current production. Grand Seiko was born in 1960 as a premium brand. The first Grand Seiko featured a simple yet elegant design with an innovative movement boasting chronometer-grade accuracy. This marked the start of Seiko’s challenge to the Swiss-dominated luxury watch industry.

1961 – King Seiko

Alongside Grand Seiko, Seiko also unveiled the King Seiko collection. The King Seiko would essentially keep the Grand Seiko in competition, with the collection also being dedicated to creating timepieces to rival Swiss luxury watches with precision, durability, and elegance. The King Seiko models were known for their sharp, angular designs and reliable movements.

1962 – “Queen” Seiko

In 1962, Seiko unveiled the Queen Seiko to be paired with the King Seiko, which had been released the year prior. Like the King Seiko, the Queens Seiko was designed to be the higher-end luxury model to Seiko’s current ladies offerings. The timepiece came with a elegant design that featured trapezoidal hour indices alongside sharp and refined hands. The dial was also kept minimal with no date or seconds hand.

1964 – Seiko Crown Chronograph

Seiko unveils their very first (and Japan’s first) chronograph timepiece with the Crown Chronograph. The timepiece was created specifically for a very special occasion, the Tokyo Olympics being held that very same year. As the name suggests, the chronograph featured a single pusher located from the crown to activate the mechanism. The Crown Chronograph showcased Seiko’s ability to create a complex mechanism while still keeping the timepiece affordable.

1964 – Seiko World Time

As part of the celebrations of Tokyo holding the 1964 Olympics, Seiko unveiled another timepiece to commemorate the special occasion, this time being the World Time. In the first edition of the Seiko World Time, 26 reference cities were included on the dial. The dial featured a beautiful vertical brushed finish, while the day and night indications were shown through the blue and black 24-hour scale.

1965 – Seiko Diver’s Watch (62MAS)

Seiko and Japan’s very first diver’s watch would be unveiled a year after their chronograph was released in 1965. The Seiko Diver’s Watch 62MAS was made to be water-resistant to 150 meters, meeting the demands of both professional and recreational divers. The 62MAS was a huge milestone for Seiko, as it would pave the way for the brand to have dominance in the dive watch market.

1968 – Seiko 5 Sports Collection (Sportsmatic)

In 1968, Seiko unveiled one of the most iconic collections, the Seiko 5 Sports. This collection was the brand’s answer to affordable timepieces that still exude reliability alongside beautiful aesthetics. As mentioned earlier, the Seiko 5 Sports features five key attributes that make the watches highly desirable as entry-level timepieces, appealing to younger and budget-conscious buyers.

1968 – Seiko Diver 300M 6159-7001

After Seiko and Japan’s first-ever dive watch was released in 1965, the brand sought to keep improving the model. In 1968, the fruits of the labour were unveiled with the second diver model from Seiko to hit the market. The model was named as Ref. 6159, after the first-ever Japanese high-beat calibre within the timepiece. The watch also increased the water resistance from the 1965 Divers from 150m to now 300m!

1969 – Seiko Speedtimer

The 1960s was a period of time in Seiko’s history when they released a number of timepieces to announce themselves on the international sports timing stage. In 1969, Seiko introduced the Speedtimer watch with the innovative calibre 6139. It was the world’s first automatic chronograph with a column wheel and vertical clutch, two devices that delivered real improvements in the measurement of elapsed time in a wristwatch and are still a prerequisite in high-functionality chronographs.

1969 – Seiko’s First Quartz Watch – Astron Quartz

The year 1969 had a major impact on the global watch market, all because of the release of the Astron Quartz from Seiko. This timepiece would shake the watch market to the point that Swiss brands had to close shop. The Astron Quartz started the quartz crisis, changing the perception around mechanical watches, albeit briefly before the Swiss market took back control. The reason why Astron Quartz dominated the global market was because of its unprecedented accuracy and affordability. It boasted a yearly deviation of just ±5 seconds, a significant leap from mechanical watches of the time.

1970 – Seiko Diver 150M

On the back of the success of Seikos prior dive watch releases in 1965 and 1968, the brand released another variation in 1970. This time the model only featured 150m of water resistance, catering to the more casual dive enthusiasts. A unique design feature of the 1970 Seiko Diver was the way that the crown, moved to the 4 o’clock position, was protected by the extension of the case around it. 

1973 – The World’s First 6-digit LCD Quartz Watch

Following on from Seiko’s success with quartz watches, in 1973, the brand released the world’s first 6-digit LCD quartz watch. This timepiece certainly took digital timekeeping to the next level with its innovative display and incredible quartz accuracy. The design and capability of the watch made it seem like a futuristic accessory, further solidifying Seiko’s position as a leader in electronic watchmaking.

1974 – Seiko Credor

Launched in 1974, the Seiko Credor was an ultra-luxury collection combining Japanese artistry with the latest complex mechanical movements. The Seiko Credor collection included fine watchmaking with high complications, such as minute repeaters and tourbillons. The watches also came with minimalistic designs with hand-finishing to add to the horological excellence of the collection.

1975 – Professional Diver’s Watch (Tuna)

Seiko launched the first diver’s watch with a titanium case in 1975, nicknamed the “Tuna”. The timepiece was engineered for saturation diving at extreme depths. The “Tuna” came with a monocoque case design and helium-resistance technology, setting a new benchmark for dive watches worldwide.

1979 – Seiko Dolce & Exceline

In 1979, Seiko introduced the Dolce & Exceline collection, which was the brand’s dress watch line. The collection had a specific design, which was a slim case with a refined dial suited for formal occasions in one’s life. The Seiko Dolce & Exceline collection is mainly available in Japan, and they usually come in gold cases, mother-of-pearl dials, and quartz movements.

1982 – Seiko TV Watch

In 1982, Seiko pushed the boundaries of watchmaking but creating a world first: a timepiece with a built-in television screen. Combining wearable technology with entertainment, the Seiko TV Watch showcased the brand’s ingenuity. The timepiece gained even more popularity when it became one of James Bond’s gadgets in Octopussy.

1986 – Seiko A.G.S/Kinetic

In 1986, Seiko introduced the Automatic Generating System (A.G.S.), later renamed to Kinetic. This was the world’s first quartz-powered timepiece that was powered through kinetic energy. This incredible innovation brought together the benefits of mechanical and quartz technology, essentially eliminating the use of batteries in quartz watches. Kinetic watches would go on to become the mainstay of Seiko’s environmentally friendly watch technologies.

1993 – Seiko Landmaster

In 1993, a new collection from Seiko was born, named the Landmaster series. This collection was rugged adventure watches dedicated to mountaineers and explorers. The timepiece as you would expect was created to withstand the harshest environments, while also featuring useful tools like compass bearings with the Cardinal points.

1996 – Seiko Spirit Smart

Debuting in 1996 was Seiko’s Spirit Smart collection. This collection was designed purely as a contemporary line with minimalist aesthetics in mind. The collection catered to young professionals with watches that had classic dial designs with automatic movements, bridging the gap between formal and casual designs.

1999 – Seiko Spring Drive

Following the success of Seiko’s Kinetic timepieces, the brand started to develop and improve this technology in the background, with the end result being unveiled as the Spring Drive in 1999. The Spring Drive revolutionized watchmaking by integrating mechanical, quartz, and electromagnetic technologies into a single movement. The Spring Drive technology allowed for a second-hand glide-motion, along with near-perfect accuracy of movement, symbolizing Seiko’s mastery of merging tradition with modernity.

2000 – Seiko Brightz

The Seiko Brightz collection was a Japan-only line released in 2000. The Brightz collection is one of modern elegance, featuring titanium cases, radio-controlled movements, solar power and beautiful, stylish dials. This collection can be thought of as tapping into Grand Seiko’s sophistication and elegance but at a fraction of the price.

2012 – Astron GPS Solar

Forty-three years after the introduction of the world’s first quartz watch, the Astron, Seiko, introduced another world first using the same groundbreaking model. The Astron GPS Solar is the world’s first GPS solar-powered timepiece, capable of automatically adjusting to the different timezones using satellite signals. The Astron GPS Solar is powered entirely by light, which means that it eliminates entirely the need for manual adjustment. This was a watch that you could wear anytime, anywhere, and it would read the correct time.

2016 – Introduction of Seiko Presage Collection

In 2016, Seiko launched the Presage collection, with the focus of the timepieces being refined dress watches with a particular emphasis on traditional Japanese craftsmanship. As mentioned previously, Seiko’s Presage collection featured dials that were made using various materials, including porcelain and enamel. The Presage collection has become very popular, as it combines beautiful aesthetics with Seiko’s reliable automatic mechanical movements.

2017 – Grand Seiko Becomes an Independent Brand

2017 was a milestone year for Grand Seiko, as it became a separate entity from Seiko to be established as an independent brand. This decision was made to elevate Grand Seiko’s position in the global luxury watch market and allow it to compete directly with established Swiss brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe. The first notable change in the timepieces was removing the “Seiko” logo and replacing it with the Grand Seiko lion emblem and its brand name.

2019 – Seiko Prospex LX Line

The pinnacle of Seiko’s Prospex collection came in 2019 when the brand launched the LX Line. The line came with Seiko’s premium Spring Drive movements, offering the highest level of accuracy and reliability for mechanical timepieces. The LX Line was also marketed as an ultra-durable collection, with the watches catering to extreme adventurers. The LX Line has earned accolades, including the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) award for its blend of luxury and functionality.

2021 – King Seiko Revival

Initially introduced in 1961, the King Seiko went through a period of turbulence as its popularity waned due to the emergence of Grand Seiko as the high-end luxury watchmaker in Japan. Seiko stopped making King Seiko timepieces in 1975, due to the brand consolidating its focus on other flagship lines like the Grand Seiko and Astron. However, in 2021, the brand bought back the King Seiko in a limited edition run, with the timepieces retaining the sharp, angular designs of the originals while incorporating modern movements and materials.

2024 – Seiko 100-Year Anniversary

Seiko celebrated its highly anticipated 100-year Anniversary this year, and to commemorate the special occasion, the brand released a host of timepieces. The timepieces released covers most of Seiko’s current collections, including a faithful recreation of the original 1924 Laurel Seiko that started this epic journey of Japanese watchmaking!

Seiko Australia Introduces Birth & Rebirth Exhibition For 100th Anniversary Celebrations!

As part of the 100th Anniversary celebrations, Seiko Australia introduced a Sydney exhibition back in March this year to showcase the brand’s past, present and future! The very first pop-up exhibition from Seiko in Australia gave visitors an exclusive look into curated Seiko exhibitions and timepiece collections. 

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Seiko Australia (@seikoaustralia)

Located at Shop 54, Mid City Centre,420 George Street, Sydney, the SEIKO BIRTH & REBIRTH exhibition invited visitors to delve into Seiko’s rich history, highlighting the brand’s evolution from its inception to its envisioned future. Outside the Seiko Exhibition, you are greeted with a large display of the Seiko birth model in 1924, the “1913 Laurel,” alongside its 2024 rendition. Alongside the various interactive activities, the exhibition succeeded in giving visitors a glimpse into the world of Seiko over the past 100 years!