Have you ever wanted to travel to space to see beautiful astronomical phenomena but were limited by silly things like ‘not being an astronaut?’ Fear not – Bulgari’s newest Octo Finissimo brings the magic of the Great Unknown to your wrist!
While some dissidents may see Bulgari more as a jeweller than a ‘proper watchmaker,’ the mark that they have left on the modern industry is undeniable. This has been reflected not only in their designs but also in the level of technical expertise required to produce any Bulgari timepiece, resulting in an innumerable amount of outstanding achievements. These have been by way of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo, which in its time in the Bulgari lineup has broken several records, including the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon (2018) and the World’s Thinnest Chronometer (2024).
Since 2014, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo has also proven to be one of the greatest canvasses with which notable craftsmen and artisans the world over have left their impression. From Executive Director of Watch Design Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani’s Sketch Edition to the highly sought-after Tadao Ando collaboration, the Roman brand has proved themselves on the horological battlefield countless times since their 1977 entry into the industry.
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It seems, then, that another major collaboration with another esteemed artist was not too far out in the future, as the Italian jewellery and watch house has chosen to team up with the venerable conceptual artist Laurent Grasso to work the canvas of the Octo Finissimo into his own image. The Parisian artist uses an art style that combines history, science, mythology and the supernatural, evoking the pursuit of all things unknowable. This conceptual and thought-provoking imagery makes him one of the best candidates to bring a fresh new take to an already beloved timepiece.
Thus, his efforts have resulted in the Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso: A perfect coupling of Bulgari’s hyper-modern, brutalist and understated design and Grasso’s singular creative vision. Though the sharp, geometric frame of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso wears significantly larger than the 40mm diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug suggest, it’s compounded by the signature titanium case material and remarkable 5mm thinness. Having worn the original Octo Finissimo before, it almost feels like part of an Ancient Roman gauntlet – an aesthetic and tactile trait that I’m sure Stigliani and the Bulgari team are proud of.
While the silhouette is familiar, the similarities to the original article stop very abruptly. In conjunction with the traditional sandblasted finish, the titanium case and dial have been entirely PVD coated in a midnight blue. This has been done to reflect the tranquillity of a post-sunset sky, serving as the perfect backdrop for viewing the wonders of space.
Recalling the epistemological nature of Grasso’s works, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso uses the matte blue dial to reflect a mysterious, iridescent cloud, floating in the seemingly endless blue void. Said Laurent Grasso: “I thought of iridescent clouds—unique and almost magical formation… The particles in suspension and myriad frozen water droplets diffract light, rendering the cloud iridescent with multiple colours. I find this phenomenon fascinating…”.
Executing such an artistic display of the Great Unknown required some brainstorming between Stigliani and Grasso. They would eventually turn to serigraphy – a fancy way to say silkscreen printing – as their medium of choice, utilising metallic pigments to create the colourful diffusion. This is a well-known technique that has pervaded the art world for years, but was always remarkably ahead of its time and used by icons such as LeRoy Neiman and the venerable Andy Warhol.
Of course, the fine artistry of this piece is only matched by Bulgari’s level of mechanical craftsmanship. One of very few movements worthy of such a feat of horological engineering is the BVL 138, the signature micro-rotor movement of the LVMH brand. Beating at 3Hz (21,600VpH) backed by a remarkable 60 hours of power reserve, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso is as horologically and creatively sound as watches can get, even bearing the signatures of Bulgari and Grasso on the transparent sapphire case back.
My Thoughts
Every time the Bulgari Octo Finissimo comes up in conversation (read: watch conversation – I don’t talk about watches all the time!), the Tadao Ando collaboration comes up about nine out of ten times. And really, who can blame us – It’s one of the most gorgeous minimalist timepieces ever made! Up until now, I was thoroughly convinced that Bulgari couldn’t possibly create a collaboration as good – or find an artisan as good as Ando – to create another timepiece that’s worth looking at.
I’m glad to say that, as of 2024, I believe I am wrong. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso is one of the best re-interpretations of the Octo Finissimo I have ever seen. The timepiece comes with such a high horological standard that is already difficult to touch. Laurent Grasso’s unique attitude and signature touch seem to have turned that standard into gold. Or, in this case, matte PVD blue.
At the end of the day, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso demonstrates both the talent of the Roman brand’s craftsmen and the mysterious and philosophical flair that Grasso brings to the table. I highly advise those lucky enough to see any of the 200 pieces in person to pick it up when you can – I hardly believe these will stay on shelves for long.
Reference: 104005
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 40mm case diameter x 46mm lug-to-lug x 5mm thickness
- Case Material: Blue PVD titanium
- Dial: Blue with serigraphed cloud pattern
- Movement: Automatic BVL138 with micro-rotor
- Power Reserve: 60h
- Water Resistance: 30m (3bar)
- Strap: Stainless steel with folding clasp
