In classic H. Moser fashion, their newest addition to the Pioneer collection is a masterclass in making one of the best and most understated horological flexes of 2024!
H. Moser & Cie is not your average watchmaker. A preeminent expert in all things haute horlogerie, they’re certainly not to everyone’s tastes – but they prefer it that way. Said Bertrand Meylan in conversation with Watch Advice Editor-in Chief and Operations Director, Matt Clymo:
“Yes, the Studio Underd0g piece for example is not for everybody, and it’s not meant to be for everybody. Even in our own community, I had big collectors telling me that they love the exercise, but it’s not for them. To that I responded with “no issues, I understand it completely”, but you need that. From the first day, we always say in order to be loved you need to be hated, and you need to create this. If everyone says you’re doing good watches, you will not sell!”
Related Reading: In Person with Bertrand Meylan of H. Moser & Cie
But when they’re not busy making once-in-a-lifetime collaborations with microbrands or trolling the watch industry with a timepiece made of cheese, Edouard, Bertrand, and the rest of the H. Moser team are hell-bent on living up to their moniker of ‘Very Rare.’
The Pioneer collection is exemplary of this brand ethos. With the new versions sporting a transparent, near-invisible logo via a transparent lacquer, it’s clear that the Schaffhausen-based brand is content to let its horological prowess do the talking.
Their newest addition to the Pioneer collection, in midnight blue, does that and more, complete with an all-new retrograde function. Typically, a retrograde complication is used to display features such as the day or date, but H. Moser’s unending quest for horological innovation has instead led them to use it for the second hand! Courtesy of their partner Agenhor SA, it snaps back to 0 every 30 seconds, adding a level of animated dynamism not typically seen in wristwatches, both in the snapping second hand and the animated snail-shaped contraption sitting just below it.
The issue with a 30-second retrograde, though, is that it’s significantly harder to set time accurately – you don’t know if the watch is in the first 30 seconds of the minute or the last 30. H. Moser, of course, is aware of this issue. Thanks to a subtle two-tone disc beneath the snail, it’s much easier to time set than any other retrograde seconds watch out there!
Inside the new Pioneer Retrograde Seconds heats the Calibre HMC 250. An in-house developed movement beating at 21,600 Vph or 3hz, it provides 72 hours of power reserve and like all Mosers, the movement is just as gorgeous as the dial. Impeccably finished with Anthracite and features the Moser double stripes on the bridges, which are partially skeletonised. The bi-directional winding rotor is skeletonised with the H. Moser & Cie logo.
Final Thoughts
At 42.8mm in diameter and 14.2mm thick, this is not a timepiece for everyone – I myself am unfortunately sized out of it – but then again, H. Moser & Cie. have always prioritised horological perfection over mass appeal. It’s always super refreshing to hear about, given how often watch companies so badly want to be ‘the next [this brand],’ or ‘the spiritual successor to [that brand].’
I’ve always been of the argument that nobody should focus on trying to duplicate other people’s success. It’s far more rewarding to carve out your own legacy than comparing it to others of a similar calibre – that’s how you get miserable quickly. H. Moser & Cie., with this new Pioneer release, have proved once again why they are the horological representative of this sentiment. They’re never trying to be the next version of something else, but instead the first version of themselves – singular in their aesthetic and technical excellence.
Reference: 3250-1200
Specifications:
- Dimensions: 42.8mm case diameter x 14.2mm thickness
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Dial: Midnight Blue fumé with sunburst pattern & H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer
- Movement: Automatic HMC 250 with 30-second retrograde function. Beating at 21 600 VpH / 3Hz and pivoting on 31 jewels
- Power Reserve: 72h
- Water Resistance: 120m (12bar)
- Strap: Hand-stitched alligator leather, rubber, or textile strap with a steel pin buckle engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. logo. Alternatively comes on a steel bracelet
